do I want a digital WB afr gauge, or the flashy light one?
 

I'm getting an lc-1, and trying to decide if I want to look at a #, or look at red, yellow, and green lights. I already have the flashy light "stoichiometer," and I am going to run MS.

I was thinking the lights would be easier to read if something "goes to shit"...at least I get a color designation.

What do you guys think?

I find myself ignoring the colored led's and only looking at the number.

I have this:
http://www.arctic-racing.com/media/GAUGE2.jpg

thinking about getting this for an additional $100:
http://www.diyautotune.com/images/pr...b-dbr-3796.jpg

Attachment 216533

Here's mine, PLX Devices M-350

is it easy to read when you are say...at the track and quickly glancing at gauges on a straight?

what's gonna "go to shit"? injectors don't just stop working, ECU's don't make up a new tune as you're driving... if your fuel pump dies, you'll know it.

If you want a digital...and the led sweep..just get the AEM one..you can get it for like 250...which is cheaper than the LC1...and a gauge.

http://img409.imageshack.us/img409/5531/019gh5.jpg

should I run that...or maybe something like egt? That might be a better indicator of "things going to shit".

If it's easy enough to read while speeding on streets, it should be alright where you don't have to worry about much traffic or pedestrians.

AEM UEGO gauge type ftw

My AEM just has the gauge so I figured, I'd run it
and boost is kind of important...EGT might be useful, but thats a lot of gauges....2 on the a-pillar is enough rice for me :)

Yeah AEM is probably more supported if you're going to be plugging it into an ecu or something.

I think both AEM and LC-1 work great with the Megasquirt, I just got a great deal on the AEM and I like the gauge and how it looks in the A pillar with the boost gauge...

detonation maybe, and AFR won't tell me that...especially sense I don't have knock control yet.

MS Knocksense would be a much more useful way to spend $100 than a WB gauge.

But would it look as cool ;)

I was going to wait and see how to hook it up with ms pnp...since I have no clue what its going to look like. I guess I could hook it up through the CLT...right?

a WB is great when you are tuning. not useful all the other time.

I run a narrowband O2 gauge to keep an eye on fueling (gives me enough info for keeping an eye) and I use the narrowband with the MS to keep stoich off boost.

I also run an EGT gauge. That will tell me a lot about how the motor is running.

why not just go off the data logs, and watch the computer screen when tuning?

Ever tried watching your tach/speedo all the time while driving in a car your not used to? It takes a second to see how fast your going...its even harder to check out a computer screen.

I also just realized that I have to use the analog output for ms, so I can't spoof the gauge I have and run EGO.

LC1 has 2 analog outs.

For fuck's sake. Do we (I) have to do all your work?

fuck...its too late. I thought it was one digi and one analog. I'm going to bed.

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/i...uge-p-150.html

"The controller has a programable analog output for connecting to Megasquirt or other aftermarket ECUs. The analog output can emulate a narrow band sensor for connecting to the stock ECU, too. Like the regular LC-1, it has a digital output you can connect to a laptop for data logging with LogWorks software, or daisy-chain the LC1 to other Innovate data acquisition systems."


That sounds like 1 analog output too me though.

No. It sounds like it has two. One is running the gauge that is bundled with it, and the other can be used for feeding the ECU.

I might get this, and stick it behind the steering wheel:
http://www.zeitronix.com/Products/O2Meter/BatteryV.jpg

Where is that from? I was thinking of picking this one up:
http://deftracing.com/prosport_gauge...Gauge_52mm.htm

to replace the disco light autometer narrowband unit I have. I really like the gauge that is bundled with the LC-1 on the DIY site, but I haven't been able to find one online yet.

I don't always have a laptop in my car ... after it's tuned no use.

i just found out, they don't have any left. They are replacing them with this:
http://www.zeitronix.com/ZeitronixAFRguage400.jpg

You can get a regular panel voltmeter, program the LC analog out for 1V at 10:1 and 2V at 20:1. Most of the el-cheapo panel voltmeters have a jumper or ground pin to move the decimal point over, it would need to go 1 space to the right. If you can't do that, then just move the decimal in your head. Done. $10. :bigtu:

<edit> here, on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/Blue-200V-Digita...QQcmdZViewItem

Precisely - one of the analog outputs is already taken. So it has one output free. All LC-1s have two analog outputs and a digital one. Maybe I should have written that a bit better...

dude, you already have the gauge...just fucking deal with it...I know what LED on my gauge correlates to my AFR.

https://www.miataturbo.net/braineack...nd/gaugewb.jpg

I acutally reprogramed my output to a different scale, but it's not hard to figure out. Why waste the money...you'll have your laptop there for tuning with a big ass digital gauge on it. If something looks off on the NB gauge, double check with the digital gauge on the laptop and correct. once your tune is good you dont even need the WB or gauge.

can the analog outputs be calibrated independently?

yes

The way I have always looked at it is like this; when tuning I rely most heavily on the WB, boost is important but I could live with an overboost light, EGTs I've found like to show out of spec once oil is pissing out of the exhaust so I don't rely on them.

Injectors DO like to fail, and its usually a gradual degradation. Same for fuel pumps. Voltage dropping can mimic an ECU changing its tune... build-up in a fuel filter, minor split in the feed line from the pump to the tank cover, blocked pre-filter on the pump, hole in the FPR vac line... any of those could lead to a nice hole in a piston and your boost gauge isn't going to warn you. And chances are your EGT gauge will only let you know after the fact.