1redcanuck

iTrader: (1)

Car's been running great. Just came back from lunch, went over the hump at the end of the driveway and my car dies. I can start it, but I can barely keep it idleing and it will not rev. I have checked for any loose connections that I can think of:@fuel pump, ecu, ecu ground, cas. Any suggestions? Please help I do not want to have to pay for a tow.

1redcanuck

iTrader: (1)

Just checked TPS sensor connection and fuses as well. Could the pump just die like that?ANYONE?

miatamike203

check psi at the tank or coming to the line

1redcanuck

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the reply. I can do this once my car is home but right now my car is in my work parking lot.

04 Miata

Going over the hump and having it happen makes me think you knocked something loose not the FP failed. Have you checked your intercooler piping?

miatamike203

If that checks good then check your ignition. I take it your running with out the AFM.

miatamike203

That's also another thing im thinking but if he is running with his AFM removed and off a map signal this wouldn't make his car not run.
so until we got more info that's about as much as i could think.

04 Miata

He says it runs but doesn't rev

miatamike203

He has a 93 which has the AFM car will idle but as soon as you touch the pedal it will die if some thing is wrong with it.

1redcanuck

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys. Just had my car towed home, no charge thanks to a coworkers CAA. Intercooler piping is fine, actually it did come apart once in the past but car still ran fine, just no boost. I am using the Link MAP sensor. I will look into the ignition in a couple of days. I am going to a friends cottage tomorrow(in a different car of coarse). What should I look for in the ignition?

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

The symptoms described strongly suggest a fueling issue. Could be a clogged filter, an ailing pump, maybe even an issue with the electrical supply to the pump.

Filter is easy- change it. Don't even think about it, just replace the damn thing. You know you never have before. It's time.

Electrical supply ain't hard- use a voltmeter to measure voltage across both terminals of the pump. Should be within a few tenths of system voltage.

Pump itself requires a pressure gauge and some fittings. Install a tee in series with the hose going to the front of the fuel rail, and connect to gauge. Inexpensive and highly accurate gauge can be purchased here, or crappy gauges can be had for a few dollars more from CT or similar. Fuel pressure should be 35-45 PSI at idle, 40-50 at cruise, and ~10PSI more with the vacuum line disconnected from the fuel pressure regulator aft the fuel rail.

miatamike203

Just check to make sure spark is good and its constant but first check you fuel pressure coming from the pump.

1redcanuck

iTrader: (1)

Filter has less than 10,000km on it. I changed it while trying to solve a very erratic CAS issue.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

You are thinking about it. This violates the rule which we have laid out.

1redcanuck

iTrader: (1)

Sorry Joe. I promise it will never happen again!

1redcanuck

iTrader: (1)

Ok I still have not had any time to diagnose my problem, but I have a question. Should the stock pump be OK with my setup, or should I go to a Walbro 190 hp?

Thanks

Zarniwoop42

iTrader: (1)

be sure to check the electrical connections before you buy a pump. Mine failed because the harness on top of the tank assembly fried itself for some reason. I ended up switching to a used 1.8 tank because mazda wanted 400 dollars for a new assembly.

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

check to see if you are getting flow through the exhaust system i had a clogged cat do the same thing to our 96.

1redcanuck

iTrader: (1)

Update. It's not the pump, filter, fuse or exhaust.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

What happens if you get the car running and manually rev it by pulling the throittle open with your hand on the cable or arm thingy? Do you hear it open and close? Did you check ur spark? I didn't see in the thread if you had or not.