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Did you replace the t-stat and it's still over heating?
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coolant levels are the same and i have just replaced the t-stat no ten minutes ago so i'm letting the rtv set up for a while before i go out and test it! Hoping it works crossing my fingers.

replaced the thermostat today.......
BUT i accidentaly broke the cts so i have to wait another two days to test the new t-stat out

new t-stat is in and it still overheats quite easily what is my next option to fix this problem?

replace thermosensor, remove flock of pidgeons from grill?

is it overheating at idle? is it overheating on the freeway? is it overheating on the racetrack? does it overheat only when you're using A/C? does it cool down when you're using A/C?

the stock plastic undertray isn't a 'be all, end all', but it does help. if you're seeing extreme high temperatures on N/A, re-installing the undertray likely isn't going to solve your problems. If you're running slightly higher temps, the undertray can indeed solve your problems. Without it, you have no vacuum in the engine bay. Without vacuum in the engine bay, no air goes through the radiator.

You may have air in your coolant system. Open radiator cap, start engine, put funnel into radiator fill port, watch and add coolant as the motor sucks it down. When the car starts giving coolant back to you, turn off the car.

Did you install the T-Stat backwards? How about remove the T-Stat completely, and see if the problem goes away. You'll still need to put the T-Stat back in, but it would potentially isolate the problem.

You didn't recently change the head gasket, did you? Did the problem just creep up on you, or did you get the car after the P/O had issues? Did the P/O replace the headgasket?

You don't need a coolant reroute or a bigger radiator running on N/A power.

-running distilled water in there? Rad may have enough buildup inside to cause flow problems

It over heats on the freeway without a/c and once it starts to over heat it keeps going like there is no flow, and it was like this with the p/o as well but he had enough vehicles he would just drive something else on a hot hot day. I had previously run tap water through it but only for a couple of days while it was in the shop trying to find the leak, i would drain all the water out before i left the shop so it wouldn't scale up the inside of my motor or the radiator but i'm going to guess it scaled up pretty quickly in the radiator.

sounds like a boiling issue. your coolant system isnt pressurized

well what woud keep it from being pressurized? There are no leaks anywhere that would let air in to cause it to boil.

Try replacing your rad cap again, also Check your timing belt and ignition timing. Severely out of whack timing WILL cause your car to overheat at cruise.

timing belt is still in great condition and out of whack timing cant be sooo far out that the car would still fire correctly and run fine would it? i'll try a new cap tonight, but if the cap was bad that i have on it now wouldnt it be leaking from there?

i also took the new thermostat out to make sure it wasnt bad right out of the box

I've seen "brand new" caps not hold proper pressure before due to grime in the neck of the filler.

And yes, the ignition timing can be out of whack enough to cause the car to overheat at idle/cruise and the car will drive as normal, albeit with diminished power.

all power is there as good as the day i bought it when none of these problems were there. i've had the water pump of twice and timing has been done correctly both times and its properly in "time". i'll check the neck of the filler once it cools down and put the new radiator cap on and test it after that

Check the bypass hoses and barbs for crud going in and out of the thermostat housing.

changed the cap out for a new one and checked all the easily accessable passages and they're all doing what the should and it is still over heating

Are you losing coolant?

nope all coolant is staying where it should

Are you sure it's over heating and your gauge isn't broken?
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