samnavy

iTrader: (7)

I think this thread will be a race to see who'll be the first one to call me a dumbass. But, I figured I'd give it a shot.

I pulled the head... not nearly as hard as I'd thought even though everybody was telling me it would be easy. It just took me some time since I wasn't following any directions other than "disconnect everything and then ubolt the head." I left both the manifolds which made things a little easier.

I scraped both surfaces with a razor-blade and put it back together. The old gasket didn't look bad, but I didn't know what would look bad anyway. It fired right up and was still pissing white smoke out the exhaust.

Old Compression Numbers 1-4:
191 189 130 125

New Compression Numbers 1-4:
205 195 135 125

When I pulled the #3 spark plug, there was steam coming out of the cylinder.

NOTICE ANYTHING SIMILAR? Yup, replacing the HG didn't do ****! I suspect that my head is warped a little after all... does anybody concur?

paul

iTrader: (21)

sounds like a warp to me or at least the head is not seating properly at the back end.

what are the compression numbers in your sig?

Markp

Probably... and you can probably still use that head gasket if it doesn't look harshed.

Mark

Arkmage

iTrader: (3)

Did you check the block/head for flatness while it was off?

Did you replace the head bolts or have ARP studs?

Did you clean the threads in the block and oil the threads on the fastener when putting it back together?

LOLA - 92

MERRY CHRISTMAS!

bryantaylor

iTrader: (5)

use some restore, its garenteed to raise compression, lol and when all else fails, JB weld, or quicksteel

Ben

iTrader: (33)

LOL, did I not tell you to take the head to a machine shop and have it planed? Do it, and while it's off again, check that the block is not warped with a straight edge and feeler gauge. .004" (1mm) is max acceptable gap.

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

No.
No.
No cleaning, but did oil. Now that it's had a heat cycle through it, do you think it would be worth it to pull the valve cover and torque the bolts again?


You did, and I will. Hopefully my shop isn't taking too much time off for the holidays.

Well, at least the work this time won't take as long. I think the total job to remove the head took about 4hours... that's 1hour to do the work, and 3hours of cleaning along the way.
Reinstall took about 3 hours, but 1hr of that was to re-wrap my heater core hoses with new wrap.

jayc72

iTrader: (14)

I guess the wise man that told me that was correct. Hope you get it sorted out quick and with little hassle.

Jay

firedog25

All squids have weird heads.

XxGoKoUxX

iTrader: (2)

dumbass.... I WIN!

what do i get?

XxGoKoUxX

iTrader: (2)

ohh,by the way.... sorry to hear what happened :(

any chance you have a reference as to where i can get the torque ratings for each bolt while taking stuff apart?

paul

iTrader: (21)

torque ratings don't matter when you are taking things apart. apply enough torque that the nuts/bolts break loose.

when putting things back together try these specs http://www.miata.net/garage/torque.html

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

do you take a look at the cylinder walls while it was off? were #3 and #4 pistons cleaner than the rest?

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

I did. All the pistons and cylinders looked exactly the same. No scoring on any of the walls and only what I would call "extemely minimal" carbon buildup on the piston-tops and combustion chamber. Overall, it looked REALLY clean.
This time I will have the head planed and I will gauge the block. I will also clean the threads with the proper tap.

How much and where to buy upgraded head-bolts and what is the benefit?
If the motor finally blows at some future point and I decide to go with a mild build, can I reuse the ARP's that I might buy now?

GoKuUx, you win a smilie!

Ben

iTrader: (33)

ARP studs, cheapest place I've seen is miataroadster.com. but I'd say f-it on this motor.

Arkmage

iTrader: (3)

Yes, studs are re-usable. You can swap them over to a new motor. They are very much worth the investment in my opinion. even more so since i've had stockers stretch on me before.

I've never had a head milled or checked by a shop. I just use the edge of a metal yard stick and feeler gauges. If you are within .004 on both sides you should be in good shape.

fourwhls

iTrader: (2)

Sam,
I have a 1.6 engine calling your name. Give me a call.

XxGoKoUxX

iTrader: (2)

thanks for the help paul... but i looked there already, and i was looking for specific torque ratings for like... lifter bolts and such

as for samnavy... if you have a 1.6L...

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=14945

transfer what is needed from the old motor to the new

Arkmage

iTrader: (3)

Can you show me a picture of said "lifter bolt", i think you are on crack. the closest thing I can think of would be a "cam bearing cap" which hold the cam down on top of the lifters.