Engine Build Opinions Wanted
 

So i'm going to pick up a block here about as soon as I find one locally or reasonably and work on acquiring loot for it over the next several months, Maybe drop it in the hole this winter while i'm bored, I plan on painting the car while it's out anyway.

Goal is pretty simple and straight forward, 250hp, rock solid reliability.

So say you had a 2k budget, and a 3k budget, What would you do for each?

3k is really as much as I can conveniently budget for this without getting too much more shit from the s/o about the car. I would rather keep it closer to 2k, As I have 2k set aside for paint supplies, new seals etc.

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"Why are you looking at that dumb car like that?"
"Thinking about his new engine this winter, needs more zoom-zoom you know?"
"For fuck's sake blah blah blah money blah blah that fucking car blah blah"
"Would a trip to the Bahama's like maybe shut you the fuck up so I can finish thinking?"
".....Are you fucking serious?"
" Yes I'm fucking serious, when's the last time I made a joke about money?"
"That would be sweet!"
"Gee, wouldn't it? Now how about pissing off for a bit,eh?"

...and then she pats the car on the way by like 'good boy'
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I'm secretly planning on scrapping the greddy setup after the learning curve and building something better and spring that on her as were about to board the flight. She'll be too excited to say anything but 'whatever fine'.;)


So 2k budget 3k budget how would you spend it???

There are better turbo setups to be had, for sure, but maybe at first keep the Greddy, make 250whp on it, then change to something bigger/better. I'm curious to see how much potential can be unlocked just by doing some headwork and maybe swapping cams.

Also, while the engine's out and the bay's being painted, have the brake booster and some of the other little hardware (like the brake booster's hardline) sprayed. No one hardly ever does it outside of hotrods and VWs but I think it's a nice touch.

you can do a cheap build. maybe some coated "oem" pistons, good rings and rods, and call it a day with a fresh hone and arp hardware with a MLS gasket.

^what she said.
You gan get ETD rods, ARP head/main studs, some rings, a OEM piston try coat, all new seals/gaskets, timing belt, water/oil pump and labor for around $2000, and then spend some money on the head for the juice!!!

What would you recommend be done as far as the head? not much on oem 'type' stuff. I'd rather spend a bit more and get some quality 'type' stuff instead. Not really sure what the machine shop will run yet, I've always built rotaries. When I did machine work I just got out the air grinder and started porting.

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Depends on which route I go with the bay, Still undecided. There's something to be said for the simplicity of a flat/matte black too. I know i'm going to strip off everything that will unbolt. Car will be better than new when done.

Wait...you have the 1.6, are you going to be building a 1.8.
As far as head goes, depends on how much you want to spend, I would at least do some unshrouding and blending, even if you do it yourself. Just get rid of all the casting marks, smooth things out, enlarge the runners slightly, match the IM to the head, maybe a valve job, a better valve-train, cams, etc. if you feel like dropping the money, probably not worth it on the greddy...maybe stick to the first few things I mention until you are ready for more powahs!!!

1.6. I want it ready for a future turbo project. The greddy was for experience points. That sounds like a ton of money for headwork.

Well, it is, but that's where you get your power from, the block you build to be able to handle it. Figure out how much you want to spend and stick to it. You can do some of the headwork yourself man, just get you some good rotary tools and take it easy.
I wouldn't spend much on a 1.6 rebuild though, I'd rather source a 1.8 block, build it and strap a 99/00 head to it...300rrwhp.

It occurred to me as I read your post that we need an illustrated n00b-friendly writeup (preferably miata-specific) about these headwork procedures.

$40 in die grinder bits goes a long way ;)

this helps....a little. not really...i just like to show off.

http://www.boostedmiata.com/headwork/

I have a spare head I could do the process on, but no spare time at the moment...maybe in a few months I'll do it. Well, this will allow me more time to learn more before attempting the DIY head work.

It looked crusty at first, but it was a good candidate.

Those pics would be a great start I think, especially if there were words accompanying (sp?) them explaining the before and after, the process, and the theory. :)

I didn't even bother with a valve-job, however it was lapped like crazy and the head was milled at least ;)


find my post "headwork ftw" or something to that matter, and it has a lots of info and before/after comparison logs.

When I get around to building my motor I will be using these.

http://www.maruhamotors.co.jp/miata/...powerrods.html
http://www.maruhamotors.co.jp/miata/...gedpiston.html
http://www.maruhamotors.co.jp/miata/...racingcam.html
http://www.maruhamotors.co.jp/miata/...wermetalb.html
http://www.crank-scrapers.com/index.html

I'm also considering getting the Pro-Gram forged billet steel main caps w/ the Main Bearing Support Plate. But I'm going for high rev and bulletproof.

wouldn't it be nice :(

You don't need billet caps, MBSP to build a high revving motor. Also no reason to buy 900 pistons when you can get a set of supertechs for 450. Research your options more.

For the OP, if 250whp is what you are after then you can reach that on a stock motor reliably IMO. You just need to focus your money on things like cooling, and tuning.

Exactly, he could achieve that with his current Greddy/stock 1.6 setup and still be reliable. Go for it Talusfan!

Yeah, but it is my understanding that he will upgrade turbo later for more power...if your motor is not on its way out, why rebuild it? Boost it!!!!!

It's already boosted. I like it, It could use more but then I don't have it cranked up to it's potential.
Cooling is already good, have a godspeed already and putting in slim fans next week.

Motor is currently fine, I just want to build a new one in my spare time. Since I will have it out anyway for a repaint, why put an old one back in?
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"I wouldn't spend much on a 1.6 rebuild though, I'd rather source a 1.8 block, build it and strap a 99/00 head to it...300rrwhp."

What would this entail?

Taking the time to balance the bit's n pieces will help as well. If your'e willing to go a little farther, knife-edge the crank and then have the crank, flywheel and pressure plate balanced as a single unit.

I argee that balancing is a great thing to do, I did it with my motor, but in the grand scheme and at his budget knife edging should be on the bottom of his list.

I will play Devils Advocate here and remind you of the expected timeline of the 6" dif above 200whp. I think I'm sitting at a comfortable 210-215whp now and it's hanging in there... but I think 250whp would be asking to get stranded somewhere inconvenient. I'm just saying that getting yourself a AAA membership might be a wise investment. Either that or get some 165series tires.


My advice, get a low mileage 1.8 from a trusted source... '97 or older will be cheaper leave it stock. Get the FM swap kit. Cost for both: +/-$1k... or maybe way less depending on the hookup for a motor.

Get the ETD Greddy 1.8 mani http://www.etdracing.com/miata2.html.
Sell off all your bandaids and the Greddy 1.6 manifold to pay for most of it. Cost: +/-$0

Get some 460cc injectors. Get an MSpnp w/MAF delete and EBC. Cost: $1k.

Turn up boost as required for 250whp.

Periodically purchase parts for mild 1.8 build to install when it blows (could be 5k miles or 5years). Cat Rods, OEM tri-coat pistons, rebuild kit w/oil-water-timingbelt. Practice headwork on your original 1.6 head and sell it... then do actual work on 1.8 (nothing fancy).

Reinstall motor and run Greddy turbo to limits of efficiency while you save for BEGi S4/GT2860/3"exhaust/550's. Sell off Greddy parts to offset cost. Then set boost as required for 300whp. Timeline to make this happen depends on money.
More money=shorter timeline.
Less money=longer timeline.

probably not a half bad idea....

These big trouble lead to an engine broken!

I have a buddy with a turbo 2.0vw that had the bottom end balanced. It idled and spun up like an l6 motor after that. Definitely worth the money.

I've been babying the rear end untilI find something suitably local. I've never even chirped the tires once in this thing. I like replacing shit with better shit, not replacing shit because it's broken.
1.8 swap is not a bad idea really. Ideally I only want to pull the motor once in the next 100k, I don't get alot of free time. I'm going to go do some searching about. The only thing about swapping is I start thinking about how a v8 would fit rather nicely in that hole.

If building a 1.6 what is the main difference between the long nose and the short nose crank?? I can't seem to find anything about it except that the longnose is better. I have a spare 1.6 laying around I wanted to start building but not sure if its a short nose. Even if it is short nose then is it worth building it? Can it be made better or comparable to the long nose?

Sorry for the thread hijack, but I thought this would be related to the OP.