Finally some progress!
 

http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/9894/copplatezt8.jpg

I'll finish up tomorrow. :bigtu:

uh nice sharpie work. real men use prussian blue.

Progress indeed.

So how did they catch you?

how much i want one too

fuckers
that's big news for my little town, notice how big the paper was today?

black was the first sharpie I found in the tool bag, but I actually have an assortment

didn't finish because I wanted to cut the COPs holes out on a drill press. So gonna go to my dad's tomorrow AM to bust that out.

SOL, I got material for 2, assuming I'd mis-align something on the first try. I'll let you know how it works out.

http://img519.imageshack.us/img519/9...pplate1dv8.jpg
http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/4...pplate2nn3.jpg
http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/2...pplate3ov3.jpg

The plate is made from 1/8" aluminum. It's drilled to bolt down to the cam cover from the existing 3 cam cover bolts. I used a hole saw on a drill press to remove the aluminum where the COPs fit through. The COPs are secured to the plate with 1/4"-20 studs that I cut out of a stick of allthread. I drilled and tapped the aluminum plate, and screwed the studs in and secured with a little thread locker. The bottom side was ground flat so the studs don't stick past the plate. The studs were all cut to exact size, and I used a nickel plated acorn nut on top that pretty closely matches the other cam cover bolts. I wanted chrome, but nickel plated was the best the ACE had. To finish it off, I cut a small section of rubber fuel hose to fit on each stud between the plate and the coil.

My little neice came to visit, so I didn't get to wire them up today. Maybe tomorrow.

What's the advantage of this? Are you rigging something up to do sequential ignition?

ok dont flame me to much, but why switch to coilpacks? whats the advantage?

Those of you asking questions about the COPs, they can be answered here.
https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...highlight=COPs

He isn't planning sequential ignition. MS fire two COPs at a time, it works just fine.

:werd:
Going for hotter spark and a larger plug gap.

Really just doing it because it's a cool project.

Eager to see how that turns out, Ben. What did the COP setup run you?

Very eager to see how this works for you, Ben!

you guys need to all read the thread "cop thread"


and then read the how-to condensed version in the archives.

I want one :-)

use that sharpie up on the yellow salvage marker and aluminum plate to match your cam cover :gay:

looks very nice Scot that is a neat trick you did with lazzers thread. I wonder if his GF lazzergirl was banned as well? he could try to use her Username shit couldn't she.
Ben that shit is friggin awesome i look forward to seeing some numbers on those things. :D

Sav--did you want to know how much the coilpacks were? About $60
And I think I have another appx $90-100 in clips, wire, solder, heatshrink, flex loom, aluminum, allthread, thread locker, and nuts
I also put quite a bit of wear on the teeth of the hole saw I used. I kept it because it's part of a set, but it's not something I'd want to use again for any type of precision cut. It must have been made for wood.

Rob--I was considering either shooting it with black from a rattlecan or sending it to be powdercoated. :dunno:

Others--Thanks. I had family over, but they just left. I'm going to see if I can get away with soldering up my Ignitor/PNP harness in the den while watching football. A female somebody might not be too happy with this plan... :x:

football? or soldering? :gay:
every time I fire up the soldering iron inside I get the, "do you have to do that in here?" :nono:

I'm going a little different route... I'm going with the aluminum plate over, aluminum spacers, and all thread through the valve cover... so I'll actually be using the valve cover hold down (3) holes for mounting this. The trick will be getting the spacers just the right length. Too short and the valve cover gasket won't seal in the middle. Too tall and the coils will still walk out. Should look good though.

Find an industrial bolt supply place. It cost me under $30 for 2 ft of SS M10x1.5, 6 feet of SS M6x1.0, and a wide assortment of stainless/brass nuts and washers. The aluminum flat bar and the aluminum tube (for spacers) was about $30 from McMaster and I have about 10 feet of each.

So this is how it went down.

I gave SWMBO some money and told her to get a late lunch with her mom, leaving the house to myself, so that I could solder inside while watching the Falcons (loose).

I then started the task of soldering up wires into the gutted ignitor. I have to admit that it was a pain in the ass. Mine didn't come out pretty like Joe Perez's, but it did come out successfully.

Then I had a bunch of people distract me, so i didn't get back at it until 8:00, as it was getting dark. Didn't have much time so I quickly ran the wires from my ignitor harness to the COP plugs. And I ran out of butt connectors and there wasn't any light left, so in a magnamx5 move I used a twist cap on the +12v feeds. It HAD to start tonight. :D

No start, but I had both fuel and spark. :confused:
Turns out, the wiring diagram has the spark triggers backwards for my car. Played musical coils. Hit the key. Car started immediately and purred like a friggin kitten.

Here's the obligitory cellphone video from the first start. Cold car. Bad lighting. Ugly wires. I'll clean it up tomorrow. Tomorrow I need to run the tach wires, secure the additional grounds to the head, and make everything neat and pretty.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqcFnzY6NuU

In the video, you can probably see that I flipped the ignitor around compared to the stock position, braided the wires, and ran them through the intake mani between runners 3&4.
Tomorrow, I'll make everything else look dope like that.

mazda did switch coils somewhere in the 90-93 cars, i think it might have been in between 92 and 93

Cool stuff, sounds good. Things go through this forum in fads it seems. Everyone jumps on megasquirt, a little WI, then COPs, what's next?

hopefully some fucking turbos!

http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/1062/copharnessng8.jpg

http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/6...arness3ex3.jpg

http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/3...arness4yn7.jpg

http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/2...arness1tk5.jpg

http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/9...arness2se9.jpg


All cleaned up. Everything was fine when I started the car. Went for a ride, and the tach died. Everything else is fine. Tach works with original ignition. So there must be a loose connection. I'll deal with that later.

The 'stray' wire is an extra ground I ran from the harness, but haven't done anything with it yet. Figured I'd see how it works without the ground first.

I that one mine?

Anyone know a decent source for the ignitor module? Or have one for sale?

Where'd you get hte plug that goes to the ignition piece?

AND.... we're done. Had a bad connection. You see, most of the joints in this harness were soldered. But in what I'll concede was not one of my smarter moments, I decided to play the "Is this hot?" game with something after I soldered it. I just wasn't paying attention, and when the burn came, it startled me and I dropped the iron, which broke the tip. That forced me to butt connect the few remaining joints. TWO of those butt connects had bad connections. I'll also not be taping everything up anymore :fawk:
But we're fixed up, and it's all working now.

SOL,
http://www.cagetoday.com/wp-content/...-up-sucker.jpg
I've got your coils and ignitor here.

Jay, the ignitors can be had for around $25 from the typical used parts places

fire, i made the plug out of a gutted ignitor. you can see the shell in the very first pic in this thread.

And that would of course differentiate it from mine, which didn't work at all. I got pretty lazy towards the end and didn't really put any effort into troubleshooting it. I wonder if perhaps I wired my triggers backwards as well? Guess I could check that easily enough... Quick project for this evening.

Joe did it just spin and never catch? If so, your triggers are probably backwards. Here's how mine work:
Trigger 1 as labeled on the ignitor goes to Coil 1 (and 4)
Trigger 2 as lableled on the ignitor goes to Coil 2 (and 3)

I didn't post pics of my solder job because yours looked sooo much nicer. But I feel better about it now. :)

Yup. The engine just spun, with no sign of ignition whatsoever. The reversal scenario confuses me somewhat, because I'd expect that a spark plug firing at BDC after a cylinder's intake stroke would be able to light off the uncompressed mixture, which should in theory bend a rod. Oh well. I'll try reversing them when I get chance.

yeah it's scary as f@@@ actually. my engine spun fast like normal but without starting, then it took a REAL SLOW revolution and then a real fast one again. I had real bad thoughts in my head. But I flipped the COPs around, and it fired immediately. And I made it to HomeDepot and back just fine. :bigtu:

I set my gaps to .040-.041, increased boost via EBC to the settings from my dyno tuning, and went for it. It hits 13psi or so and holds 12 to redline.

I got ONE misfire, the first time I went into boost. The rest of the time, no problem on WOT through 1-2-3, no problem on pulls from 2.5k in 3rd or 4th, no problem stabbing the throttle in 5th.

I'll probably set the gaps back to the .037 range or so, to be safe. They were .027 before. Which is smaller than I remembered setting them, but a gauge doesn't tell any lies.

The wiring diagram that Lazer posted is incorrect for some cars then? The wrong set of coils is firing correct?

i followed the 1.6L diagram to a tee and mine fired on the correct cycles....

it was backwards for me. also my ignitor had different labels on it for the triggers than the one in lazzer's pic. i have a early build 91 longnose.

You've got a 93 right?

yep.

http://img57.imageshack.us/img57/977/copharness5fu3.jpg

http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/7...arness6ss8.jpg

Ben you're going CR on us. I vote NO on the split loom. Don't you have some of the split smooth vinyl stuff? Looks like you've got hoses running to your cops now. You could run the hoses to your coil pack. :gay:

well when it was taped up, it had an unfinished look to it. I had a bunch of split loom, and well it's already done, and frankly I'm tired of working on the damn thing. mainly I also did want an outer barrier around the harness where it sneaks through the intake mani, in case someting wanted to rub. also the factory uses split loom over most of their connections, so this fits right in. maybe I need to dirty it up a little to make it match the factory loom?

i'm going to leave the coil pack on the back of the motor for the next few days, just to make sure I don't get stranded in the N.GA mountains sunday. I've left the coils on, and have an ignitor and a set of plug wires in the trunk. If all goes well Sunday, I'll pull it next week.

I think it looks really good.

Nice. Guess I should jump on the bandwagon soon.

Very nice job Ben. Looks great to me.

Here's pics of my method. It seems to work great, it actually compresses the rubber rings under the COP a bit so hopefully I can wash my engine again without filling my plug holes. Now, anyone know if these use an inverted or non-inverted trigger? I want to get spark up and running on the MS, it's been hooked up for ages but since the stock coils seem to be random on trigger direction I chose not to use it in the interest of not toasting coils on the DD.

Anyone?

keep bugging scott brainy.

They fire normal (non inverted)

Excellent... thanks.

that's correct. non inverted.
mine are doing well. but as an experiment I'm going to power them directly off the battery through a relay, using the oem power supply at the relay coil.

These cops work fine up to 17.5 psi at .040" plug gap.
After that, my overboost shut down cuts fuel. :td: :D

wow nice. i forgot to re-gap mine this weekend.

sweet. I eventually want to do this as well. Just to be like the cool kids.