Fluidamper timing marks not right
 

I am finishing up my build and put a fluidamper on, but I noticed the timing marks aren't right. There are 2 timing marks on the damper that's supposed to be 1 for top dead center and 1 for 10btdc, but on mine the 2nd mark on the fluidamper is TDC and you can't change it based on where the keyway is. Anyone else have this? Just making sure I'm not crazy.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...703cbe20d1.jpg

When did you purchase this damper, and from whom?

I recall this being a known and corrected issue on the earliest parts.

I bought it from fab9 only 3 months ago. I've read about the issues before, but I thought that was a couple years ago. I verified TDC several times to make sure

Yikes. Well, you can try reaching out to Fab9 but don't hold your breath...

You bought from FAB9, lol. I'll be surprised to hear if it was in a factory unopened box and not a previously returned item from another consumer. Good luck with anything from him.

FWIW Fluidamper support is very responsive, they should be able to clear this up for you if it is indeed a recalled unit.

They also revised their design to not use the 4 crank gear bolts to secure the pulley. If you have the old design, you got send old stock.

Got me scared! I didn't even check mine. I switched to a new timing system at the same time and re-timed the car.

I guess I should do that this spring before tracking my car.

Keep us posted.

Edit: I'm curious to hear if yours bolts on via the 4 small bolts, or if it's secured via the 1 large crank bolt/keyway. I got the revised version and assumed it was marked correctly.

I must not have the old one, because mine uses the large crank bolt to hold the balancer on.
The easy way to check yours is to take the #1 spark plug out and set a long screwdriver or something in the hole so it rests on the top of the #1 piston. Then rotate your crank to find the highest point and that's your TDC.

i will email fluidamper and see what they say.

What did FluiDamper say?

Once it warms up a bit around here I'm going to check mine as well. Looks like the timing would be retarded about 10 degs judging by where it's off.

Here is Fluidamprs response:Hi Johnathan,

Thank you for contacting Fluidampr. Attached is a print of the damper. The timing marks are correct and were verified with the OE damper. The timing mark as you have it set is for lining up TDC, when the marks are paired to the TDC and 1 degrees below TDC that is for setting the timing. If you have any other questions let me know.

So I think what he is saying is that both the lines on the fluidampr will line up correctly once you have the car's fixed timing set to 10 degrees BTDC. It is true that once I set my timing to 10btdc once I had the car running, both lines do line up. It is confusing though bc you have to know that when you are checking tdc manually that it is the 2nd line on the fluidampr that is actually your tdc.

Attached is the schematic they sent me.

Yeah it's a little counter-intuitive. It should be noted that this is how it's marked on the OEM pulley as well.

Thanks for the updates. I was wondering about that, because to be honest I have never checked TDC on my stock or aftermarket dampers, and have no idea what the procedure for that is. I just mechanically time the car, throw on the damper, and set base timing and trust the marks. Mines the revised Fluidamper that is keywayed and bolts on with the main crank bolt as well.

I'll probably still check it just to confirm now that you got me thinking about this, but I feel better now.

Like cpierr03 said that is actually how it is supposed to be. I have the same fluidamper I got a few months ago and it was identical. Farthest left line is actual crank position and farthest right is to help align ignition degree timing to 10 before TDC while using a timing light when engine is running. I'd say just in case go ahead and confirm it's accuracy with the long screw driver in cyl 1 trick or what ever long tool you have that wont scratch anything. My markings are actually off by about 2 degrees which is about 1 line on the factory plastic TDC timing plate. Found that out after fighting with my timing marks for about an hour and couldn't get them to line up just right. Ended up pulling off the damper to see what was the issue and saw my crank TDC mark was a hair off. I took the 2 degree diff into account when using the timing light.