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-   -   Friends 700whp NA (https://www.miataturbo.net/general-miata-chat-9/friends-700whp-na-100375/)

IcantDo55 06-10-2019 02:50 PM

Friends 700whp NA
 
Facebook Post

Nasty

Joseph Conley 06-10-2019 03:37 PM

I followed the Facebook link and its a turbo K series swap. If his location is accurate on Facebook he is also at altitude in Colorado. Pretty darn cool.

90LowNSlo 06-10-2019 04:30 PM

I see nothing but the word nasty
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...63353f8197.gif

18psi 06-10-2019 04:34 PM

that's cause he cut/paste a FB link

I tried to fix it. failed. I blame IB

borka 06-10-2019 06:16 PM

I see an embedded FB video of a miata on a dyno.

Maybe video doesn't work on mobile version? Or certain work filters?

Fireindc 06-10-2019 09:04 PM

Damn! I bet that is pretty nasty.

andyfloyd 06-10-2019 10:05 PM

There is a guy I follow on Instagram that has a turbo BP making 740whp. He's running low 6's in the 1/8 mile. I need to find a link for his. It's the highest hp BP I've ever seen. I'm sure someone has made more but that's pretty impressive.

cpierr03 08-13-2019 08:58 PM

Bump, this car is currently for sale :skid:

borka 08-14-2019 12:48 AM

Any more details? Link, specs, etc??

cpierr03 08-14-2019 07:26 AM

Not sure if this link will work.

Here's the listing description:


So, I guess I’ll make an actual for sale ad. There is only one car I would ever sell the Miata for, and I have a chance to get it... so up for sale the Miata goes. If that car sells beforehand, then the Miata isn’t for sale anymore FYI.

Please read the ad in full, it’s very long and I’m sure I’ve missed some things. There are a couple different options to buy the car how you want it. This car has been a blast, and isn’t for beginner drivers. Many have known how much the car has changed and what it’s been through under my ownership. Car has made over 700whp and weighs around 2250lbs, and has trapped 140+ here in Colorado at Bandimere Speedyway.

1991 Mazda Miata (NA) FULL s2000 drivetrain with f20c motor and ap2 s2000 trans. It is currently using the 3.9 Torsen LSD differential with a FC RX7 housing. It has held up to rolls and launches here and there, but plans was to swap an 8.8 which I can also include the 8.8 diff with the sale. There is a lot of custom fabrication that went into the car including the subframe being completely redone and tubed with an added skid plate underneath. If you don’t know, but there is not a company out there that makes a direct swap kit for the F series and this build was originally started/done over 8 years ago. The motor had been overall bone stock with the exception of ARP headstuds.

It has a custom PFAB top mount turbo kit using a BB water-cooled GT3582r w/ 1.03 hotside. Absolutely no shaft play, and spools amazing. The manifold has been ceramic coated for heat purposes, has a 4” back door FMIC with 3” boost piping, 4” intake piping that routed into the front bumper next to the radiator, Tial 44mm WG with 10psi WG spring, and 50mm BOV. It has a small Koyo radiator and almost everything regarding line/hose/fitting/clamps has been replaced/upgraded. Has a catch can set up with dual bungs off the valve cover. As you can tell, the car has a 4” downpipe out the hood as well as the 2.5 WG dump. Yes it's loud, and yes it shoots lots of fire. The car does great with the ACT 6 puck clutch and 8.5lb flywheel, but could benefit from a twin disc set up for street drivability. This is car isn’t the easiest car to drive around town. Has an expensive and nifty micronic oil filter that you can wash and re-use.

For fueling, the car has Bosch 2200cc injectors. The tank was sumped and is utilizing an inline AEM 400lph pump outside of the tank under the car with a Aeroquip filter. There is a Weldon 2040 Rising Rate Fuel Pressure regulator on the InlinePro fuel rail. As mentioned above, all new fittings and upgraded lines.

Wheels and suspension wise, it has Konig Flatouts which are 15x8 +25. Front tires are 225/45 r888, rears are 225/50 Mickey Thompson ET Street R. It’s sitting on Bilstein Yellow shocks with coil over sleeves. Spring rates are 700# in the front and 300# in the rear so it’s fairly a stiff ride. The car has solid bushings so there is lots of vibration.

The body definitely needs some love. It isn't the greatest looking but doesn’t need much body work. The clear coat is peeling in areas, and some of the reds have faded more than others. Hood as a cool Rising Sun design but does have some hail damage to it. It has a Racing Beat Type 2 front bumper which is hard to find, and that obviously needs paint too. I had plans to paint it once the car was running 100%. Car does comes with the hardtop and all latches, as the car no longer has a soft top anymore.

Interior wise is fairly untouched. It has lots of gauges (boost, A/F, fuel pressure, oil pressure, and water temp), some AEM and others Autometer. It also has the s2000 gauge cluster which is a cool modification. It has a 4 point welded rollbar with harness bar but does need to be finished completely welded which I can arranged that if need be. It has NB Miata seats which are nicer/more comfy than the NA seats but the car definitely needs some bucket seats and harnesses.

Tuning wise, the car made 709whp corrected @ 25-26psi on E85. It made around 600whp @ 17-18psi on the old turbo set up with smaller hotside. It’s using an AEM V1 stand-alone with all the correct wiring and plug-n-play harness.

Now onto the bad. Yes the car is not running, and the car does need a bottom end replaced/built. The car has made over 600whp on a stock bottom end for over a year with no issues, and guess it just didn’t like 700+ whp. First piston has a hole which gouged the cylinder wall some, not sure what the cause exactly was. You could hone the current block and put bigger pistons, but I wouldn’t recommend it due to the oem FRM sleeves already being thin to begin with. Everything else in the motor is good though including the head. So that being said, here are the options to buy the car. Before you say that’s a lot for a non-running car, find me another turbo Honda swapped Miata for less than what I’m asking. You won’t, period. There are N/A K swapped Miata going for $15,000+ so I think I’ve priced it accordingly. I’m fairly firm on everything so please no low balls. Willing to take trades plus cash, but want a minimum of $8,000. Cash is king.

Buying options:

$12,000 as-is with everything I have for the car. That includes the current motor, turbo kit, 8.8 diff I have laying around, and any other extras. Will need to be trailered away.

$15,000 and I’ll throw another stock bottom end in there, and however you want it tuned.

$18,000 and I’ll have it running with a new sleeved built bottom end and however you want it tuned.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask me. I have tons more photos and videos if needed. Lots of people can vouch for the car. It was a very fast car, and can scare you easily if you’re not used to it. If you don’t like the pricing, then move on please. I don’t need to sell this nor do I care about your opinion. I just want it to a good home that will use it for its purpose. I mean, who wouldn’t want a 700+whp gokart?

Schroedinger 08-14-2019 07:55 AM

:rofl::rofl::rofl:

Thread starts with "friend's 700hp NA" and ends with "car is for sale and has a trashed bottom end with holes in the pistons". Gee, never saw that coming.

jonshonda 08-16-2019 07:49 AM

Haha! That poor motor. That poor delusional owner.

IanIsInTheGarage 08-16-2019 08:29 AM

Psssssssh that's not the part raising my eyebrows. What's with him holding 700hp on rx7 diff! Pretty awesome.

ryansmoneypit 08-16-2019 10:08 AM

Lots of things work well outside of their parameters, for a little while...

patsmx5 08-18-2019 09:59 PM


Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit (Post 1546017)
Lots of things work well outside of their parameters, for a little while...

I should get a sticker printed and put that on my car.

Holmes 08-19-2019 03:58 PM

About halfway through the Facebook video, there is a screen-shot of the dyno output. I can't quite make out the numbers on the axes, but there is a very prominent rise (or knee) in the torque curve, at something like 4000 (or higher?) rpm. Below that rise, torque is flat, and presumably low. This presumably is common, when the turbo is "large" compared to the engine displacement.

My question is, for those with experience driving Miatas (or other light cars) with such a torque-curve, how - subjectively - does it feel?

Full_Tilt_Boogie 08-19-2019 04:32 PM


Originally Posted by Holmes (Post 1546364)
About halfway through the Facebook video, there is a screen-shot of the dyno output. I can't quite make out the numbers on the axes, but there is a very prominent rise (or knee) in the torque curve, at something like 4000 (or higher?) rpm. Below that rise, torque is flat, and presumably low. This presumably is common, when the turbo is "large" compared to the engine displacement.

My question is, for those with experience driving Miatas (or other light cars) with such a torque-curve, how - subjectively - does it feel?

That was a drawn out way to ask how does it feel to drive a lag wagon.

Ive never driven a 700hp 2.0L, but Ive driven some seriously laggy shit. Lots of <2.0L cars with GT35XXR turbos because for some reason everybody wants that turbo even when theyre only making 400hp.

On one hand Im inclined to say its not as bad as you might think, you can still easily get into boost, you just have to downshift. But yeah, its pretty fucking bad.

hks_kansei 08-19-2019 07:06 PM

Think of it like driving a bog standard NA6 with the aircon on.

And at 4000rpm you turn the AC off.



Like that, but exagerrated

18psi 08-19-2019 08:29 PM

It depends entirely on your style of driving. For your typical every day driving, it feels like a n/a miata and kinda sucks.
For your weekend warrior 60 rollz in mexico crowd, its perfect.

Holmes 08-20-2019 05:21 PM


Originally Posted by Full_Tilt_Boogie (Post 1546370)
That was a drawn out way to ask how does it feel to drive a lag wagon.

In essence, yes. But I would like to distinguish between "lag" and a peaky torque-curve.

By way of example, the previous-generation BMW 340i had, in my experience, an annoying lag. Punch the throttle, and there's a fraction of a second (though it feels longer!) for the turbo-bits to spool up and to start making torque. But this was essentially the same, whether one happened to be at 2000 rpm or at 5000 rpm. The torque curve, at least to my amateurish and qualitative view, felt "flat".

Exhibit #2 is a slightly "built" BMW M3, from the E36 generation. It's naturally aspirated, with (in this case) an intake-scheme tilted towards higher-rpm power. At cruising rpm, the apparent acceleration is OK, but certainly not prodigious. At >4000 rpm, the car "pulls" impressively. If one happens to already be at 4000 rpm, part-throttle... and then mashes the throttle, the result is a satisfying surge forward. This I would consider to be a peaky torque curve, but without lag.

Exhibit #3 is the justifiably much-maligned Dodge Caliber SRT turbo. It's a putrid car in many ways, but in my experience it had both a smooth/flat torque curve, and remarkably little lag. Transition from part-throttle to full-throttle was smooth and satisfying, at essentially any rpm. I'm not suggesting that that engine would be an appealing candidate for a Miata swap, but to have such a torque curve, with equally little lag, does indeed hold much appeal. At least for me.


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