oil on spark plugs
07-26-2007, 08:40 AM
#2
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Edmond, OK
Posts: 473
Total Cats: 0
closest to bumper:
2nd closest:
3rd:
furthest:
the last was very difficult to get out and is covered in metal shavings. As i look closer except for the last there is almost no oil on the thread its all on the top.
Reply
0
0
07-26-2007, 08:47 AM
#3
Boost Czar
iTrader: (62)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,493
Total Cats: 4,080
If it the valve cover gasket fails, then there shouldn't be oil on the threads and the electrodes.
that's my first guess. Otherwise looks like bad rings.
btw fwiw icydk, next time you take upclose shots, don't use a flash :gay:
that's my first guess. Otherwise looks like bad rings.
btw fwiw icydk, next time you take upclose shots, don't use a flash :gay:
Last edited by Braineack; 07-26-2007 at 09:08 AM.
Reply
0
0
07-26-2007, 08:53 AM
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Edmond, OK
Posts: 473
Total Cats: 0
Yea i realized that after i upladed the pictures.
I just put the valve cover on with a new gasket, i dont know if the old one was blown or not. Should i just put it all back together and do a compression test?
What would the metal shaving indicate?
I just put the valve cover on with a new gasket, i dont know if the old one was blown or not. Should i just put it all back together and do a compression test?
What would the metal shaving indicate?
Reply
0
0
07-26-2007, 10:11 AM
#10
Since its an aluminum head supposedly the plugs will seize if you do not use anti-seize lube. I think the steel spark plug reacts to the aluminum head and heat speeds the process up. Something like electrolysis when you mix copper and steel pipes in your house plumbing. That is just an educated guess though. Rip me a new one if I am wrong.
On that note I've run plugs for years in aluminum heads without anti-seize without problems, and I have done so in my Miata too. I have never had a plug seize. I generally now use anti-seize because its a few bucks for a tube. Added insurance you know.
On that note I've run plugs for years in aluminum heads without anti-seize without problems, and I have done so in my Miata too. I have never had a plug seize. I generally now use anti-seize because its a few bucks for a tube. Added insurance you know.
Reply
0
0
07-26-2007, 10:42 AM
#13
Supporting Vendor
iTrader: (33)
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: atlanta-ish
Posts: 12,659
Total Cats: 134
IMO, it's more likely that plug #4 was cross threaded than seized.
You may need to helicoil the cylinder. Which isn't hard to do. Use a dab of anti seize on each of the new plugs. Aluminum-aluminum and aluminum to stainless are more likely to seize, aluminum-steel is not. But it's one of those ounce of prevention things.
B
You may need to helicoil the cylinder. Which isn't hard to do. Use a dab of anti seize on each of the new plugs. Aluminum-aluminum and aluminum to stainless are more likely to seize, aluminum-steel is not. But it's one of those ounce of prevention things.
B
Reply
0
0
07-26-2007, 12:47 PM
#20
Supporting Vendor
iTrader: (33)
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: atlanta-ish
Posts: 12,659
Total Cats: 134
it depends on the extent of the damage done to the head. anytime you grind steel against aluminum, the aluminum is going to loose. those little bits of metal shavings on your plug were little bits of thread from the head.
I would first try to clean out the metal shavings that were already there. Compressed air up the exhaust should do it. You'd have to rotate the crank with a wrench until you felt the compressed air shoot out. Then I would apply a small dab of anti seize to a new plug and try to thread it in. If it goes in really easily without any resistance, then you are fine. But if it is tough to turn in, or scratchy, or really if it offers any resistance, the threads in the head are stripped and need to be repaired. If they are only slightly damaged, you could run a tap down the bore. But if they're stripped out, you'll have to install the helicoil. Which is much scarier sounding to talk about, than it is to install. The procedure is really pretty straight forward. Get a helicoil kit, it will come with everything you need. You tap the head for the helicoil, and screw the helicoil in with a tool that comes with the kit. Then you remove the tool, and snap off the barb that the tool grabs. That's it, done. Thread the plug into the helicoil.
The other option would be to get a new head.
B
I would first try to clean out the metal shavings that were already there. Compressed air up the exhaust should do it. You'd have to rotate the crank with a wrench until you felt the compressed air shoot out. Then I would apply a small dab of anti seize to a new plug and try to thread it in. If it goes in really easily without any resistance, then you are fine. But if it is tough to turn in, or scratchy, or really if it offers any resistance, the threads in the head are stripped and need to be repaired. If they are only slightly damaged, you could run a tap down the bore. But if they're stripped out, you'll have to install the helicoil. Which is much scarier sounding to talk about, than it is to install. The procedure is really pretty straight forward. Get a helicoil kit, it will come with everything you need. You tap the head for the helicoil, and screw the helicoil in with a tool that comes with the kit. Then you remove the tool, and snap off the barb that the tool grabs. That's it, done. Thread the plug into the helicoil.
The other option would be to get a new head.
B
Reply
0
0
