Going to replace clutch.
 

Hey Everyone.
Got my car tuned and the clutch started to slip at 185 or so. So i know that i need a new clutch for sure. I have not decided what clutch to get. Either cheap ebay or Spec stage two, maybe. But my question is, what else should i replace while i am in there? I know i am going to replace the rear main seal for sure, but what else should i replace? I did rebuild the slave cylinder already.

Another question, is that true that 90-93 dont have a true TPS? Can i swap a TPS from a 94+? I get a horrible idle drop sometimes the car stalls and it bothers the hell out of me.

Thanks!

I just finished retrofitting a cheap TPS from Autozone into the enclosure of the stock TPS on mine. Plus it looks completely factory. I plan on making a thread about how I did it and what TPS I used here in the next couple days.

As for the clutch, I'm in the same boat as you. I might be throwing a light weight FW in while I'm at it though.

Change ALL the seals. All the bearings (use OEM)
Change the clutch fork boot if it's wack.
Get the flywheel resurfaced if you dont get a new one.
Light weight flywheel is debatable..
I have a fidanza 8 pounder.. I love/hate it
Rev matching is easier, but the added noise is annoying as hell.
I also have a clutchnet "red" six puck clutch/pressure plate. took some getting used to, but it's awesome once you do. No problems at all since June.

Do a search for wells tps201 or VTPS, you'll be flooded with all sorts of TPS info, super easy and cheap.

This is what I tried to use but the TPS201 that is carried in all stores now is different from all images I have seen of it and from what is pictured on the stores site. Just something to watch out for when buying one.

In the meanwhile, find Joe Perez's "great AC faq" (whether or not you run AC), find the idle settings he recommends, and copy them to your msq. It helped stabilize my idle.

I haven't put any boost to the motor yet, but I bought the SPEC Stage III clutch. Was kinda expensive, but claims to hold 320# tq.. It was hard to get used to but once you do its not too bad.. Very grabby off starts, but its still sprung so not real bad.

Drive 3 cars on a regular basis though.. 2000 Protege with 200,000 mile stock clutch (I could operate the clutch with my pinky finger) a 1995 Miata with Spec, and 2006 Mazdaspeed6 with the stock bastard heavy depleted uranium clutch pedal... That makes for an interesting 10 minutes starting off every drive.

Just my :2cents:

Try the SPEC Stage III clutch kit, it comes with everything and was the best quality setup that I have found... Just be sure the re-surface the flywheel cuz if you don't, you will have issues.

As for the lightweight flywheel, I put a lighter one in mine and liked it... tho it takes a little bit to get used to.

Oh, and roll with a stainless braided clutch line. Makes life easier for maintenance and gives a nice feel.

Good luck and cheers!

I haz the spec s3 clutch and I'm happy with it but I'm leaning toward the new FM clutch because non-metal clutches are so much easier on drivetrain.

I ordered mine from autozone.com..
worked fine :dunno:

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t20954/
There!

um Russhin get your ass back in the garage you know what to do :magna:

thought i post a picture of my car.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_uzUzVzeT3VA/Se...0/DSC_0073.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_uzUzVzeT3VA/Se...0/DSC_0084.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_uzUzVzeT3VA/Se...0/DSC_0089.JPG

Headlight covers need adjustment.

Sorry, shit like that bugs me. :)

bugs the hell out of me too. One of the screws is missing. I need to get a new one.

What are those red things in the nose?

You can just pull the head light lids up to get them to align with the hood.. worked on mine and a couple other cars too.

those are hella super tones. loud as shit! I do pull on the lids all the time, but when i open the light up the wind forces them down again.

Horns?? Goddamn

yep

Takes 20 mins to resurface a flywheel man lol :p

yeah, but now shop here in twincities will just do it when i come in. whenever i go to any shop here you have to wait a week for them to do anything. i hate that. i just want a 1.8l flywheel that i can fit right in.

Big lesson nvr let people hold your shit when you are paying them man, oh well looks like you have a handle on it.

Not sure if i want to buy a used flywheel on ebay. there is one for sale at like 75 bucks shipped. I want to see if anyone here has one first.

I got my 1.8 flywheel used on ebay for a similar price. Nothin wrong with it so far. Not sure what could be wrong with it...its a heavy ass solid piece of metal. Once it's resurfaced its as good as new.

You can always try www.partsgoup.com

Tom always has great stuff on hand!

Cheers,
Prospero

I bought a flywheel from Auto Zone. Once I returned the core it was $60 IIRC. It comes resurfaced. I also had a local engine shop remove the protruding ring on the backside (to lighten it up a bit) and then balance it. All done, it was pretty cheap, less than $140.

I did have a hard time finding a local shop willing turn the flywheel. Seems most people just buy lightened ones and/or they were in fear of litigation if it came apart and cut my legs off.

cuts your legs off?

I should try Napa or Autozone too.

Think about a 12-15 lb (lightened) chunk of metal spinning at 7000 rpm, its perimeter lined with sharp metal gear teeth, fracturing and coming loose from its mount, sawing a hole through the aluminum bellhousing, then the thin metal transmission tunnel... you get the picture.

I have heard of it happening in old drag racing tales of woe to people who had their flywheels lightened excessively.

Flywheels explodes with great force, flywheel breaks through bellhousing, flywheel cuts legs off...

If I still worked at Napa I'd get you a sweet hookup.. but I dont because they were ass hats

will a 99 flywheel fit? i can get one for 50 bucks.

FWIW, $70.00 shipped for a flywheel isn't a bad deal IMHO. Those things are pretty heavy and cost a few bucks to ship alone.

Friend picked up a local flywheel from a junkyard for 80$ used.

yes just get a 1.8 clutch etc. Everything fits up to 05 but you need to make sure you keep the 1.6 and 1.8 clutches on there respective flywheels. Becouse the 1.8 is alil larger in diameter.

Do i need to drain the tranny fluid before i take off the tranny?

Good time to change the fluid if you haven't yet.

No, not really. Some will come out the rear, but I have a set of transmission output housing plugs that'll keep oil from spilling. Very useful for complete engine/trans installations.

Yes for sure. It will leak through the driveshaft hole unless you close that off. Easier to just drain it IMO, especially if you have not changed the gear oil like
elesjuan said.

If you do not know, MAKE SURE you remove the right bolts to drain and refill. There is one that looks like a fill bolt (at leas on the 6-speed) that will supposedly screw up your transmission if you remove it (full disassembly required). More details in miata.net garage section.

What sucks is that i just replaced my tranny fluid with Redline not that long ago. i guess i can drain it in a clean container and just refill it back up again. Or just get new fluid, which i will probably do anyway.

rushin... read this thread https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t5860/
Read it start to finish.

Post#43 is where I got over all my mistakes.

And the next time I did it, I just manned up and lowered it onto my chest rather than use the damn jack... works better. You can put a plastic bag and duct-tape it up real tight (make a tight seal) over the aft end of the tranny to keep fluid from leaking out. Don't change you fluid if it's new... why waste the $30?

amazing! Thank you!

End up ordering Fm level one clutch. the price was 360ish shipped. The ACT was going to be 480. Plus i ordered a list of stuff from mazda.

got the tranny out yesterday. I was dumb enough not to remove the downpipe so the tranny got stuck half way and i had to pull the crap out of it to get it down. I was surprised how light it was. I cleaned the bellhousing, pulled the old clutch and flywheel. Put in a new front tranny seal and replaced the throught bearing. So no i am just left with the rear main seal and need to put in the new flywheel and clutch.

got a question. When i was replacing the front tranny seal. I damaged the outside ring of the seal a little bit. The piece that is made out of metal and has rubber over it. The one that actually holds the seal in the housing. I just scrapped a little bit of rubber off of it. I just wonder if that is a big deal?