Gonna buy my next Miata.
 

...about 1.5yrs from now. The Navy's got me busy until around Dec '09, so Jan-Feb 2010 is when this will all happen. My '93 is a little long in the tooth, and it needs paint, a Torsen, and very soon a new motor. Better to sell/part and get a newer one.

Here's a list of things I'll be retaining from the '93:
Voodoo knob (very important)
Rollbar
Brakelines
Clutchline
Helium's
RX7 550's
Manual steering rack
Airhorns
Uber-Seat

Everything else down to the shell will go... full turbo setup, all 90-93 specific suspension, body panels, interior, motor... etc.

This car I WOULD BUY if it was a Jan2010 right now:
http://www.miata.net/cgi-bin/isc/cla...revaction=show

In any case, I'll be looking for a base model '99 hopefully with a few things like shocks/rollbar/sways/etc already done to it.
I'll assemble a mostly DIY kit around Megasquirt and a GT2860 and shoot for 200whp on wastegate and 270whp on EBC.

Now... just a few questions.
If there's no PnP by then, I just need a 94-97 CAS for MS on the '99?
And I need a return-style fuel line... the easy solution is to simply replace the fuel dampner with an NA 1.8 FPR (due to the length of the discharge pipe)... and hopefully the fuel return hardline from my '93 back to the tank can be swapped over.

Thoughts? I've got plenty of time.

The part about the voodoo shiftknob I agree with. That makes the car, I'd kill for mine.

And...your plan for a 99 makes me cry a little bit inside...thats what I would love to do.

OK, 50 reads and 1 response... I shortened up the original post to make it more to-the-point. Now everybody read it again and tell me what you think.

Sounds good, I'm not a fan of the NB styling but that's a subjective matter. The build sounds solid.

What is it about this "voodoo" shift knob that's so special, anyway?

Looks like a good plan. By 2010 that miata you are looking at should cost a grand or two less ;). Well maybe not.. but yea. i agree with all the upgrades you have to do being a pain. Ive been contemplating selling mine and buying one w/ a torsen, good paint, and just all around newer- but ill most likely just be restoring mine piece by piece. +1 on the NA styling, i prefer it- though i have seen some sexy nbs.

Best shiftknob ever. Sam, I liked the original post, perfect information...I just think people are lazy.

Sam, just out of curiosity, how much would you want for the car as is...and what does it need...my uncle was thinking about getting another miata in the future...and about all I saw was maybe a torsen and a motor rebuild to be solid as hell?

No. The MS-II directly supports the NB crank and cam sensors. So long as you run an MS-II CPU, there's no need for an NA CAS.
Why? MS + 550cc = more than enough fuel, and tuning the fixed-pressure NB fuel system shouldn't be too much harder than a regular VE map- just scale the lower rows a bit further down than normal.

There not much to say. Everything sounds good.

Voodoo shift knob:
http://www.thompson-automotive.com/t/tn_Spun_VK-109.jpg

Copy all that. I bet in another year or so, it gets even easier.

that one is very similar to mine :)

So, it's the best shiftknob ever, and there's a picture of one. No one has told me yet why it's so great though.:hustler:

It's supposed to be good because it's weighted and doesn't stick up as high so it shortens the throw. Never used one before though, so fuck if i know.

They're $40 shipped. I've got the black-textured Magnum. The first time you use one it's practically a religious experience.

hmm.. sounds good (goes to website and orders)

I had one. I prefer the stock knob. Feels more precise.

yeah I didn't know what all the buzz was until my friend with a c5 corvette had me drive his with a stock knob vs. a weighted round knob. Worlds of difference, feels much better in your hand and shifts easier.

Sounds good Sam, I was thinking about adding an NB to my stable as a DD but I'm running out of parking spots...
Good Luck, i'm sure MS will be easier to deal with by 2010 on the NBs.

PEOPLE, STOP PM'ING ME FOR PARTS!
I'm not doing anything with the car until early 2010, so no parts of any kind at all. It's kinda funny, but no, you can't call dibs 1.5 years ahead of time either.

something about that statement just made me laugh loud enough to get me some wierd looks from coworkers

sam, any preference for the 99 over the 01 base model? whatever's cheapest? hate vvt? curious.

'00 came standard with power windows/antenna/mirrors. Not interested specifically for those reasons. I want as "manual" as I can get... less to break, less weight, less wiring, less wine-and-cheese.

My perfect '99 would be low mileage w/manual steering, no AC, no ABS, and regular radio. So far I haven't seen a single manual rack... looks like it wasn't popular. And I haven't found a single one without A/C. All of the packages that include a Torsen also have shit I don't want/need... but I may have to settle for a sport package (how easy is it to remove a spoiler?).

There's also a definite price differential between the 99's and '01's. I think they were more expensive cars to begin with because a lot of shit became standard rather than options... and they all had the variable intake cam.

By the time it comes around, I'm gonna be able to get the perfect car, exactly as I want, for about $7k. There'll be some things to part, and I plan on putting about $3500 into the turbo. After I sell/part my '93 and sell anything the new car comes with... I figure I'll have about $5-6k total in the upgrade from a '93 turbo to a '99 turbo. It'll have 70whp more, a Torsen, way better paint, an interior I like better, way better gearing (3.6:1 ftw), and an airbag that works.

A/C came on everything 99 and newer. as did power steering I believe. And Torsen means leather and other "comfort and convenience" stuff.

I say get whatever you want and strip it down.

and wasn't there a club racer model that didn't have anything including a softtop?

I just found this out reasearching mine (99). First is Touring package. No Torsen. Then is PEP, which includes Torsen. Next package is Leather. Must have PEP for Leather. So, for Torsen, you need to get the PEP package, but leather not mandatory but all leather cars will have PEP, thus Torsen.

I did all my homework here: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/5361/
I'm sure I'll end up buying something with more gear on it than I want... but I will NOT be buying anything with the "power" options like mirrors and windows unless it's the deal of the century and comes with the hardware to convert to manual.
I guess I can deal with the leather. My '93 has aftermarket leather covers... even though I'm running the uber-seat for the driver. I'm also not a fan of tan/beige interiors. I'd love an all-black cloth interior, but that's one less shot at getting a Torsen.

Worse comes to worse, I know Torsens are about $400 for just the dif... and then my 3.6:1... I'm aware that I may need to put $800 into the dif if it doesn't come with a Torsen... all budgeted, but well worth it. Getting the right dif combination is my only real expense outside of the turbo setup.

Isn't $8500 a little high for a 99 that needs that much work. Sounds like he's being completely up honest about the condition, though, and the engine is low miles. Still, $7k sounds more reasonable.

This one's not modded but that's a plus for me:
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.js...e=&cardist=116

Having gone with and without power windows for a DD, I can't imagine not having them. I don't see the extra 20 lbs total as being a problem. You can always make more power. '01 has bigger brakes (on the Hard-S at least) and more bracing.

Frank

Reading the OP just made me sit and think about how awesome a miata with an airhorn must be.

Have you ever paid "asking price" for a used vehicle?
A sub 100k mile '99 in great shape with a new motor, hardtop, tires/wheels/shocks/exhaust is worth $8500 to me.
Hypothetically, I give him $8k, resell the hardtop/tires/wheels/exhaust/AC/PS... and I have a new motor'd '99 with full suspension for $6000. That's a steal. Of course this is all hypothetical, but $8500 is a perfect asking price for that car.
And I wouldn't call "install new included top", "recover steering wheel", and "get new seat covers" that much work.

An unmodded car is just more work for me to source parts, install parts, pay for those parts new or wait for them to come up used, etc...

And not wanting any power options is my personal stand against sloth. Power windows rank right up there with "payday-loan" places for their contribution to the downfall of society. And they will break someday. Fuck'em.

And I've already mentioned the large price difference I'm finding between the '99s and '01s. I don't need power crap and I won't be using the variable timing... less crap means less money=more money for boost. Is there anybody feelin' me on this?

Sam, I am sure you'll find one for much less than $7000 by 2010.
Here is a thought if you don't mind.
I often see 99/00's go for very cheap due to some issues, number one being high mileage, number two a salvage or accident history, numbner three mechanical failure of major component, etc.
The thought that I get is, if I'm gonna turbo it I'm gonna upgrade most things anyways. It may make more sense to buy one for dirt cheap with some issues and rebuild the car to your specs, get everything you want and nothing you don't.
Example:
High Mileage and shot tranny or rear end.
You pay much less up front, source your budgeted Torsen and gearing you want just like you would have anyways. Rebuild the motor with some ETD or CAT rods, fresh rings, new main seals, bearings, valve stem seals, etc. You will know exactly what you have under the hood as you are the one who built it. You may end up spending as much money as on a good one, but you will have exactly what you want and the piece of mind of having a fresh motor and whatever else you do to it.
I mean I could go on with things you can do all at once, and you can still walk away with less money in it then if you bought a "perfectly good one".

And yes, I feel you on 'less money on car=more money on boost' part.

^I'm feelin' that too!

I bought my 94 R for $2000 back in 2003 with 79K miles, salvage title, it was vanadlized.
Deals are rare, but just keep an eye out on different auctions and sites when you are ready to pull the trigger. Find the cheapest one you can find that isn't too messed up and fix'r'up

I debated the "cheap" 99, too. I went as far as test driving this one http://stlouis.craigslist.org/car/658828405.html when I was travelling in St Louis a couple of weeks ago. It was $5500 at the time. After I decided to pass, I told him that he had AGX's and GC springs on it. He didn't even know.:bang: It would have been a good base for a build, had Torsen, but the paint was fair, interior not that nice and 114K or so miles. I did offer $4600, but he declined. He has since lowered his asking price and has some interest. I just emailed him the other day.

So, I spent another $2000, got the exact same car, year, option packages, but a pristine car with 51K but no suspension. Did I make the right choice? I think so. Bringing his to to my condition wasn'g going to happen and I plan to keep the car for a long time so it was worth it to me.

I didn't want to put a bunch of time and $ into FI and drive around something that looked like it did.

I bought a new base model for similar reasons. I didnt want leather and I knew I would swap out the brakes, suspension, (if it didnt have one) differential, and sound system. I want the power mirrors and windows and AC. :)

So these knobs...how would one feel with a short-throw shifter already in place? I like my stock knob but it's looking a bit weathered.

It all dependes, to me it only makes sense to buy a 'fix-her-upper' as I really don't mond putting time and effort in it. But for $5K I would pass too, I am talking about one in the 3K range, then it would be well worth it.
$2000-$3000-Decent 99/00 Miata (ex: good body, bad motor/tranny/diff)
$800-torsen and choice of gear ratio
$1000-Koni/GC/sway bar
$1500-Built bottom
$1000-Wheels/tires
$400-roll bar
So 7-8K for a miata with new almost everything, and some of these things you will do even to the Miata that's prestine as is.
Just an example, but you get the point. It all depends what you will do with the car and whether you have the time to mess with it.

That makes more sense but, shy of Ben's debacle, I have never seen a sub-$4K, let alone a sub-$3K 99/00. I'm sure they are out there, just haven't seen it myself in the 6 or so states around me.

My friend bought an 01 for $2600, front end damage, very low miles (50'ish).
Deals are out there. Cost him about a grand to get it looking like it was never hit. no frame damage. Mechanically a sound car, so no money spent there, only on new body panels and a headlight.