gt2860rs .86AR turbine crew: how the hel do I get the bottom nutt off?
I can't get a wrench on this fucker with it in the car...do I have to pull the manifold out to get to 1 nut?
|
oh, and I've only broken 4-studs so far
|
this shit was a lot easier when the motor was on the stand.
|
It is a hellamotherfuckingbitchcuntwhoreassrapepainfest.
I ended up taking a combo wrench, cutting it into a shorty using the box end, and by trial and error removing bits of material from the wrench handle (and the box head), with a grinder until it barely worked. It is a lot easier with the manifold out or the engine on a stand. That is why I want to go to socket head cap screws and safety wire. |
this will be the last time I take the turbo hardware out. Next time it fucks up I'm dropping it off at BEGi and letting them deal with it.
|
Trey, go at it from the bottom. Left arm ass-deep, under the manifold, and come at it from the bottom. The DP has to be way the fuck out of the way.
|
i had to take the manifold out to drill it anyway. This shit is a raging bitch. I will not do it twice.
|
I still don't understand why our koni-challenge 2.0T GTIs dont' break bolts/studs or have loosening issues. Even with Randy motherfucking Pobst driving them.
|
Originally Posted by cjernigan
(Post 418119)
I still don't understand why our koni-challenge 2.0T GTIs dont' break bolts/studs or have loosening issues. Even with Randy motherfucking Pobst driving them.
|
stubby open end.
ps are you using anti-seize? |
From the bottom, left arm indeed, like Sav says. I just retightened mine.
Is your nuclear loctite in yet? I ordered some too, but it will probably be 2010 before customs clears my package... |
Originally Posted by y8s
(Post 418200)
stubby open end.
ps are you using anti-seize? Also, I managed to somehow whack my brake valve and now that's broken and leaking. Looks like my car is marooned in Little Rock...time to ship it home. :cry: |
You're using good grade 8 studs, right?
|
Originally Posted by elesjuan
(Post 418436)
You're using good grade 8 studs, right?
|
Are you breaking studs off the trubo or manifold?
|
Originally Posted by elesjuan
(Post 418438)
Are you breaking studs off the trubo or manifold?
|
From you driving the car hard, or from your huge arms busting the studs while trying to figure out how to take them off?
|
You tried stubby's or a crows foot?
Chris |
Originally Posted by thesnowboarder
(Post 418448)
From you driving the car hard, or from your huge arms busting the studs while trying to figure out how to take them off?
After what I've gone though today with more shit breaking and dealing with this crap, I think I've realized that I must go above and beyond what works for normal people and go with v-bands. Hopefully BEGi can do this in a timely fashion. Am i really asking to much to have a turbo car that I don't have to disassemble everytime I track it? I don't mind little shit here and there, but taking the car appart incessantly, living in hotels doesn't make sense after already droping $4k on a turbo kit. What are the chances that someone would want my manifold and dp for $600? |
Fawk I really hope I don't have this problem... but with some of the things I've been through with broken fasteners.. I likely will join the ranks.
|
@hustler: how often did you check for loose nuts and retighten them? My feeling is that once it's loose beyond a level it will destruct itself in no-time. If you keep it tight-ish you'll live longer. Waiting for the space age thread locker to arrive here.
|
|
Originally Posted by Spookyfish
(Post 418538)
@hustler: how often did you check for loose nuts and retighten them? My feeling is that once it's loose beyond a level it will destruct itself in no-time. If you keep it tight-ish you'll live longer. Waiting for the space age thread locker to arrive here.
|
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 418451)
driving the car hard. I soaked them in penetrating oil and they still broke on the dp side. With any luck I'll penetrate you.
After what I've gone though today with more shit breaking and dealing with this crap, I think I've realized that I must go above and beyond what works for normal people and go with v-bands. Hopefully BEGi can do this in a timely fashion. Am i really asking to much to have a turbo car that I don't have to disassemble everytime I track it? I don't mind little shit here and there, but taking the car appart incessantly, living in hotels doesn't make sense after already droping $4k on a turbo kit. What are the chances that someone would want my manifold and dp for $600? http://www.fastenal.com/web/showImag...=1244818923611 Product Details | 20gram Stick C5-A(R) Copper Anti-Seize | Fastenal Products | Fastenal It's good to 1800F, and you should be able to get this as an individual item in a store. Chris |
Originally Posted by Miatamaniac92
(Post 418645)
Are they shearing when you are removing them? If so, smear some of this on the new stuff. Apply like peanut butter:
http://www.fastenal.com/web/showImag...=1244818923611 Product Details | 20gram Stick C5-A(R) Copper Anti-Seize | Fastenal Products | Fastenal It's good to 1800F, and you should be able to get this as an individual item in a store. Chris |
Wow, sorry to hear about your ordeals hustler. It really does hurt me...knowing how much you put into your setup. Hopefully you can put in a little more and have something invincible.
It amazes me how many problems ya'll have. I don't track mine, but I drive pretty damn hard...hard enough to cause the DP to seperate completely at the clamped sleeve joint...and still no fastener probs. My exhaust is rigid as can be with a JEG's band style clamp and no flex joint. I hope I don't have join the misery of the loose bolt crew. |
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 418651)
so...um...do you suggest I use this and thread locker? I'd rather have them seize and hold than continue coming loose.
Besides, I don't think Threadlocker is spec'd for over 450F. https://tds.us.henkel.com//NA/UT/HNA...ile/266-EN.pdf Chris |
Originally Posted by Miatamaniac92
(Post 418671)
I thought just the nuts were coming loose and you were searing the studs on removal. Put it just on the studs then, easier to tighten them up then have to have them drilled out.
Besides, I don't think Threadlocker is spec'd for over 450F. https://tds.us.henkel.com//NA/UT/HNA...ile/266-EN.pdf Chris |
I can't even get the CRHA bolts out of the hotside...is this normal?
|
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 418920)
I can't even get the CRHA bolts out of the hotside...is this normal?
|
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 418920)
I can't even get the CRHA bolts out of the hotside...is this normal?
|
not seized, but really tough to break loose. Should I use anti-sieze on those or just bolt them back up.
Johnwag is on his way to little rock with truck. :( There is retribution in my future though. |
|
turbo gaskets?
|
hustler if you stop being a fucking transvestite pussy you can just take that shit out. Don't tell me your punny ass is no match for a 14 mm bolt?
|
Find a proper wrench and stop molesting them with ill fitting tools. Or Dremel them out as they need replacing any way.
|
Originally Posted by Spookyfish
(Post 419361)
Find a proper wrench and stop molesting them with ill fitting tools. Or Dremel them out as they need replacing any way.
|
Damn dude, I feel bad for you. I get way to frustrated for the smallest things I don't think I could handle that.
|
Originally Posted by TurboTim
(Post 419374)
Damn dude, I feel bad for you. I get way to frustrated for the smallest things I don't think I could handle that.
|
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 419365)
hey, lets run our mouths about shit we know nothing about!!!
|
its the internet, I don't get offended.
|
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:00 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands