hardtop crew: assemble, tell my about the window seal
I'm getting the car painted tomorrow and I have a red hardtop. I want to pull the window seal so everything looks nice.
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I pulled mine before painting and it broke into three pieces. I was being carefull as I wanted to re-use it. So now I have none as I am too cheap to buy another and it dosen't look too bad. I also took off the trim on the lower edge at the back, looks cleaner in my opinion.
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Originally Posted by Greenie
(Post 556729)
I pulled mine before painting and it broke into three pieces. I was being carefull as I wanted to re-use it. So now I have none as I am too cheap to buy another and it dosen't look too bad. I also took off the trim on the lower edge at the back, looks cleaner in my opinion.
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 556730)
Can I break off the lower plastic trim piece all the way around, even the little knobby things at the front?
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Originally Posted by Greenie
(Post 556732)
Yep, mine were just glued on. It snapped also, both were pretty brittle.
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I didn't bother with the trim by the catch's, I only took off the window trim and the trim around the back edge. The panel shop masked the rest.
Mine was also red. Black look's WAY better on a green car. |
Originally Posted by Greenie
(Post 556740)
I didn't bother with the trim by the catch's, I only took off the window trim and the trim around the back edge. The panel shop masked the rest.
Mine was also red. Black look's WAY better on a green car. :giggle: |
Always a pleasure to help one of the chosen;)
I'm off to have some fush and chups. |
i pulled the window trim off, still water tight, doesnt look bad (black car)... I am also too cheap to buy the $75 seal from mazda, and would like to know if there's a universal alternative
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Hustlin' - You can leave the trim off, not a problem. My first top did not have one and it did not leak. I used some black RTV for a more finished and flush look. Time consuming with masking and such for good look.
Once you pull this trim, it more than likely will not be re-usable. Pain in the boo boo to take off, and gets destroyed in the process. The bottom edge trim that we discussed comes off just by pulling, which I'm sure you found out by now. It is usually dry and will break apart in several pieces anyways - no need to replace it. Now - man up and pull the window. I do not want to have to do another one. Pain in the ass not to break. I have the original still in the garage and will be glad to let you have a template for replacing with lexan. |
I won't replace with lexan...too much work, not tinted, too little care anymore.
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I painted my hardtop with the seal in place. You can lift up just enough to slip tape under and fold it back over the seal.
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 556987)
I won't replace with lexan...too much work, not tinted, too little care anymore.
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Originally Posted by wayne_curr
(Post 556989)
I painted my hardtop with the seal in place. You can lift up just enough to slip tape under and fold it back over the seal.
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There's a special "tape" for pulling back seals around windows... your bodyshop/painter should have it or know about it. It's a little more durable than using masking tape.
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I ripped the seal off today to sand. This hardtop was white, then mariner blue, then red, then had silver stripes. I had to pull the seal to get the caked-up paint off.
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Gotta love the history on the hardtop.
Sidenote: why is it every time I go to hallett the weather is complete shit and I'm stuck on slicks? |
Originally Posted by Bond
(Post 557665)
Gotta love the history on the hardtop.
Sidenote: why is it every time I go to hallett the weather is complete shit and I'm stuck on slicks? |
Already broke, RR tie rod pulled out of the chassis. Second time this has happened. Sometimes I wonder why we insist on racing vintage cars lol.
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