gwilo

After spending about 3 weeks getting the care thru "E" testing, YES I finally passed.

Then putting on 1000 km on the new engine (600 miles) and some more 'auto tuning' with the Link I was finally able to work on the 'BOOST' set on the car at about 9:30 last night, I started at about 5:00 PM.

The car is now running 12 PSI (-/+). Some more work has to be done on dialing in the right setting but it does make 12 PSI. As well as, work on the timing.

This project started in January and is now almost complete, still have to add oil cooler, catch cans (DIY) under car scoop (Bell) and put back on the undertray.

The system used is a BEGi S3 with the T28 (GT2560) on a 1.6 (1992)

All I can say is "IT'S ABOUT TIME"

mtncrvr

FYI: I have the scooper and it doesn't seem to make much diff in temps and loves to catch speed bumps/bad parking lot entrances (my car is not lowered).. I still had to replace radiator with a koyo to keep temps down. It does look nice but I'm not sure it has any performance gains to it. You can kinda make the undertray work with the scooper but ya need to mod it to fit.

IMO I would tune at 9psi then once you're closer to your A/F targets up the boost and tune again to be on the safe side (this depends on how close you are to good numbers, I hope you're at least running on the rich side). GL oh yeah and welcome to the Club

gwilo

For the boost zones 300 to 600 I am running the stock Link setting but am also running the FM dual feed fuel rail.

In the manual the state if running the RM fuel rail take out 10 points of fuel for those zones, I have not done that so I know I am running on the rich side.

Also I am not going to be flogging the car much until spring and at that time will be doing some dyno tuning to dial the car in.

akaryrye

iTrader: (5)

welcome to the darkside