Originally Posted by nnowa07
(Post 1494865)
I'm assuming I'll just be hoping the mark lines up at the crank at TDC with the timing gear since I won't be able to get a visual on it? Aside from that, it makes sense, I'll give that a shot. Thanks
Slide a long slender object in the #1 hole and rock the crank back and forth a bit to confirm you're actually at TDC. |
Put some damn headphones on.. something is knocking real bad, hard to tell with such a short video, could just be something loose.
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Originally Posted by sshamrockk
(Post 1494872)
Put some damn headphones on.. something is knocking real bad, hard to tell with such a short video, could just be something loose.
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turns out it was the timing! Adjusted the timing and she fired right up! Idled for 10 seconds and then had to shut it down because of the squealy belt, and I don't want to piss off my neighbors at 11:00pm.
Thanks to all who contributed. I'll be back tomorrow with an update after I drive her. |
You adjusted the ignition timing, or the cam timing? If it was the ignition timing, you had the MS set to fixed timing correct? (if not, do NOT take that car out on the road)
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Originally Posted by Ted75zcar
(Post 1494907)
You adjusted the ignition timing, or the cam timing? If it was the ignition timing, you had the MS set to fixed timing correct? (if not, do NOT take that car out on the road)
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Originally Posted by nnowa07
(Post 1494923)
I adjusted the cam timing. It had jumped teeth.I'm pretty sure it needs a new belt tensioner. Going to put a new belt and tensioner on it, then should be good to go ultimately.
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Originally Posted by SpartanSV
(Post 1494937)
What makes you think you have a bad tensioner? I don't think you quite understand how the timing belt tension is handled on a BP.
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The spring provides the tension. You loosen the bolt that locks the tensioner, rotate the engine the the number of times called out in the FSM procedure, then you lock down the tensioner bolt.
There isn't really a way for the tensioner to fail and allow the belt to slip other than that bolt coming loose or the bearing on the tensioner pulley failing completely. |
Originally Posted by SpartanSV
(Post 1494966)
The spring provides the tension. You loosen the bolt that locks the tensioner, rotate the engine the the number of times called out in the FSM procedure, then you lock down the tensioner bolt.
There isn't really a way for the tensioner to fail and allow the belt to slip other than that bolt coming loose or the bearing on the tensioner pulley failing completely. |
Originally Posted by nnowa07
(Post 1494972)
i tried loosening the bolt last night with an open ended wrench and it kept slipping around the bolt head. Definitely a 14mm, but the angle and tightness of the bolt made it not want to give. I’ll at least get the second section of the cover off so I can get to the bolt on the tensioner with a socket, and see how we’re looking. The timing belt was noticeably slack, and because I couldn’t get that bolt off there was no fixing it. I’ll try later and get it to where I can get a socket on it. Should be fine. |
Well, got the belt and tensioner on, car fired up. Only to find out for sure it has rod knock. I was pretty confident before, 100% sure now it's got bottom end issues. So motor is coming out now, and I'll be putting another in. Just looking into options right now. Considering this: https://www.jdmwestcoast.com/mazda/j...g-headers.html I would sell off parts I don't need like trans, ecu, headers, and my blown motor, which would get me to probably $600-800 in it for 50-60k mi motor. There's no local motors at any of the junkyards or CL. Every other option i think of, the price climbs quickly (like having my motor rebuilt).I've got a couple of quote requests in with some of the site sponsors, but trying to keep it budget minded and get it running. Open to any helpful suggestions! Not looking to build the motor myself, but don't mind pulling or installing one.
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You know, it would be helpful if people knew where you were located...like in your profile, or sig...
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Originally Posted by nnowa07
(Post 1495258)
Well, got the belt and tensioner on, car fired up. Only to find out for sure it has rod knock. I was pretty confident before, 100% sure now it's got bottom end issues. So motor is coming out now, and I'll be putting another in. Just looking into options right now. Considering this: https://www.jdmwestcoast.com/mazda/j...g-headers.html I would sell off parts I don't need like trans, ecu, headers, and my blown motor, which would get me to probably $600-800 in it for 50-60k mi motor. There's no local motors at any of the junkyards or CL. Every other option i think of, the price climbs quickly (like having my motor rebuilt).I've got a couple of quote requests in with some of the site sponsors, but trying to keep it budget minded and get it running. Open to any helpful suggestions! Not looking to build the motor myself, but don't mind pulling or installing one.
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Originally Posted by huesmann
(Post 1495392)
You know, it would be helpful if people knew where you were located...like in your profile, or sig...
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Originally Posted by sowman
(Post 1495444)
Hey... I'm definitely interested in many parts off your car and I'm local. I was looking a buy it before you which is good because I dont need another project :). I believe the previous owner gave you my cell but if not, I can PM you if you like. Let me know and I'm glad you now know what the issue is. Thanks
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Here's a video of the motor after the timing belt was changed and properly tensioned. Is there any chance at all that I got the timing off a little and that's the problem? I noticed a bit of hesitation when blipping the throttle which made me think timing, but I'm wondering if that's a bad bearing or a tune issue? Sort of a last ditch effort of a question before I just yank the motor. :)
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That noise does not come from a timing issue. Sounds like a bottom end problem to me.
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Originally Posted by SpartanSV
(Post 1495830)
That noise does not come from a timing issue. Sounds like a bottom end problem to me.
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