Help me choose!!!
05-29-2008, 11:08 PM
#1
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Help me choose!!!
Ok, no one is responding to my other thread so I have to start another...
I need a new Radiator ASAP. I did a coolant re-route myself and I still overheat. Currently I have a 2" dual core Rad, and it doesnt cut it obviously because I am still overheating. So I need bigger and better things. I know about the Godspeed but I dont know its specs and I think its on back order for 5 weeks... I need it in 2 or 3 MAX.
So I need help. I heard Ron Davis makes custom Rads but I also heard he charges about $900 to do that. So anyone who has any info for me would be GREATLY APPR.
PS main use for car is on the Track. Three 20 min sessions with a 5 min break in between.
I need a new Radiator ASAP. I did a coolant re-route myself and I still overheat. Currently I have a 2" dual core Rad, and it doesnt cut it obviously because I am still overheating. So I need bigger and better things. I know about the Godspeed but I dont know its specs and I think its on back order for 5 weeks... I need it in 2 or 3 MAX.
So I need help. I heard Ron Davis makes custom Rads but I also heard he charges about $900 to do that. So anyone who has any info for me would be GREATLY APPR.
PS main use for car is on the Track. Three 20 min sessions with a 5 min break in between.
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05-29-2008, 11:28 PM
#3
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Corky,
Here is my list...
I have a 2" dual core rad (I think my rad may have even been designed by you)
Water cooled turbo
coolant re-route that goes cold side
180* high flow tstat
No leaks anywhere. Compression is perfect across the board. Running 50/50 distilled and Dexcool (waterwetter didnt work out well for me)
I am up for ANY suggestions
Here is my list...
I have a 2" dual core rad (I think my rad may have even been designed by you)
Water cooled turbo
coolant re-route that goes cold side
180* high flow tstat
No leaks anywhere. Compression is perfect across the board. Running 50/50 distilled and Dexcool (waterwetter didnt work out well for me)
I am up for ANY suggestions
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05-29-2008, 11:45 PM
#4
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Corky,
Here is my list...
I have a 2" dual core rad (I think my rad may have even been designed by you)
Water cooled turbo
coolant re-route that goes cold side
180* high flow tstat
No leaks anywhere. Compression is perfect across the board. Running 50/50 distilled and Dexcool (waterwetter didnt work out well for me)
I am up for ANY suggestions
Here is my list...
I have a 2" dual core rad (I think my rad may have even been designed by you)
Water cooled turbo
coolant re-route that goes cold side
180* high flow tstat
No leaks anywhere. Compression is perfect across the board. Running 50/50 distilled and Dexcool (waterwetter didnt work out well for me)
I am up for ANY suggestions
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0
05-30-2008, 12:00 AM
#5
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Im at 195 whp @14psi. I am currently boosting at 18psi (havent been dynoed yet). I have a stock exhaust system, yes, but no CAT. Once I get rid of my overheating problems I am purchasing a 3" dp and a 3" straight pipe. I already installed my larger IC. this should put me @ around 260-275whp. Also when I had it dynoed, I was running on a bad clutch(assuming that it probably was slipping) so id say I was probably getting 210whp then
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05-30-2008, 12:13 AM
#7
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Could we get back on topic?
I really need a new Radiator OR the fix to my cooling problems as soon as possible.
-Add- ducting through the rad has been done, and the rear of the hood has been lifted 1.5" to promote under hood dynamics and flow.
I really need a new Radiator OR the fix to my cooling problems as soon as possible.
-Add- ducting through the rad has been done, and the rear of the hood has been lifted 1.5" to promote under hood dynamics and flow.
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05-30-2008, 12:16 AM
#9
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Stank... How do your nordlock washers work? I just put them on mine last week I had to order them specially because they were for 10mm bolts. do they keep the turbo from loosening and falling off? I havent had any expierence with them at the track yet.
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05-30-2008, 12:37 AM
#11
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like....? The Koyo 54mm is only like an 1/8 larger then mine. Im not spending that much for an 1/8 in... Any other recomendations? I was looking at a JVTR triple core Rad and the Springfield Dyno Spec rad... And M2 was telling me about stock car Rads (sounds like a project worth taking on). But mainly Im looking to increase the capacity of the cooling system and increase the time that the coolant spends in the rad to decrease temperatures.
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05-30-2008, 08:37 AM
#16
Tour de Franzia
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revert to the stock hood design (which creates positive pressure under the hood, which is probably the cause of this problem in the first place)
you need to either put the undertray back on, or extend it and put a lip on the bottom
you need to seal off the mouth of the car, so air is forced through the radiator (smooth shaping makes air go over the rad more evenly)
run 100% water with some of that "gunk" water pump lube (its a track car, be a man)
oh, and I would buy bell's scooper before I bought a $700 radiator...which is dumb.
you need to either put the undertray back on, or extend it and put a lip on the bottom
you need to seal off the mouth of the car, so air is forced through the radiator (smooth shaping makes air go over the rad more evenly)
run 100% water with some of that "gunk" water pump lube (its a track car, be a man)
oh, and I would buy bell's scooper before I bought a $700 radiator...which is dumb.
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05-30-2008, 08:56 AM
#17
Boost Czar
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this is somewhat embarrasing.....I think some of tyour heating issues could be directly related to your exhaust of choice....you are wasting a hell of a lot of energy trying to push the exhaust out, not push the pistons down.
the only thing this promotes is a cooler engine bay, air will be more likely to flow back into the crack than to extractor from. Effectively, this will increase the pressure behind the radiator. And we all know that high pressure travels to low pressure....so if you equalize the pressure on both sides of the radiator, guess where isn't going to flow through. You need to shroud your radiator. Make it impossible for any airflow entering the mouth to flow around your IC and rad. Seal the top area around the hood latch. Use good fans. Use a almost pure water mixture.
the only thing this promotes is a cooler engine bay, air will be more likely to flow back into the crack than to extractor from. Effectively, this will increase the pressure behind the radiator. And we all know that high pressure travels to low pressure....so if you equalize the pressure on both sides of the radiator, guess where isn't going to flow through. You need to shroud your radiator. Make it impossible for any airflow entering the mouth to flow around your IC and rad. Seal the top area around the hood latch. Use good fans. Use a almost pure water mixture.
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05-30-2008, 09:45 AM
#18
I'm going to extend towards the rear of the car a bit,
but what do u mean by lip on the bottom?
Pic would be great too!
BTW 195whp @ 14psi?? +1 on exhaust prob being a big contributor to the heat problems... I had stock exhaust on for a couple short drives (LOW boost) and it was a killer, heat and perf wise
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05-30-2008, 10:34 AM
#20
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this is somewhat embarrasing.....I think some of tyour heating issues could be directly related to your exhaust of choice....you are wasting a hell of a lot of energy trying to push the exhaust out, not push the pistons down.
I am looking for a new exhaust system currently. I am looking at the Begi divorced downpipe but I dont want a 2.5" I want a 3" and im not looking to spend $400 on an exhaust if the car wont cool down.
the only thing this promotes is a cooler engine bay, air will be more likely to flow back into the crack than to extractor from. Effectively, this will increase the pressure behind the radiator. And we all know that high pressure travels to low pressure....so if you equalize the pressure on both sides of the radiator, guess where isn't going to flow through. You need to shroud your radiator. Make it impossible for any airflow entering the mouth to flow around your IC and rad. Seal the top area around the hood latch. Use good fans. Use a almost pure water mixture.
I have run tests and having the hood lifted in the rear has increased the time it takes to overheat. Radiator has cheap DIY shrouding with stock fans. The mouth of the car is completely air tight right through the rad. On the pure water mix... Doesnt coolant increase the BP of water?
I am looking for a new exhaust system currently. I am looking at the Begi divorced downpipe but I dont want a 2.5" I want a 3" and im not looking to spend $400 on an exhaust if the car wont cool down.
the only thing this promotes is a cooler engine bay, air will be more likely to flow back into the crack than to extractor from. Effectively, this will increase the pressure behind the radiator. And we all know that high pressure travels to low pressure....so if you equalize the pressure on both sides of the radiator, guess where isn't going to flow through. You need to shroud your radiator. Make it impossible for any airflow entering the mouth to flow around your IC and rad. Seal the top area around the hood latch. Use good fans. Use a almost pure water mixture.
I have run tests and having the hood lifted in the rear has increased the time it takes to overheat. Radiator has cheap DIY shrouding with stock fans. The mouth of the car is completely air tight right through the rad. On the pure water mix... Doesnt coolant increase the BP of water?
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