Help me figure my idle and AFR problem.
 

1. My Idle rpm and my idle AFP's are all over the place and my gas mileage sucks bad. Sometimes I idle rich, other times lean. Sometimes my idle is below 500 rpm, other times above 500 and sometimes above 1000.

2. When crusing and very light on the gas I run lean 15-16.0, if I give a slight amount of gas the I go rich between 11-10.0. When WOT its usually low 13's. When I decel in gear my afr's go off the chart lean. The check engine light came on this morning when at a light but went off once I started moving. Yesterday I replaced the O2 sensorwith a new one and the IAC with one a friend gave me, which means I have no idea if its any good. After changing both parts my condition seems to have worsened.

Setup Is T2854,1.8inj,begi AFPR.

Here are a few videos of my idle and AFR's. Please help me figure this out. I really want to get this fixed before I get my MS from Scott.

Thanks for your time.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...h_MVI_6171.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...h_MVI_6172.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...h_MVI_6173.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...h_MVI_6176.jpg
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your settings are wrong...it is impossible to idle at 4-5 AFR's


edit-im not gonna delete what i said, but i am so wrong...i didnt watch the videos until after i posted...sorry

lol, have you had your coffee yet? Where the heck did you get 4-5 afr?
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looks pretty normal to me.

If you're using a mass-air system, it almost sounds like an intake leak. I don't have sound here at work so I can't hear how it's running. It SHOULD go full lean when you decel in gear (overrun shutdown).

thats what the screenshot looks like to me, maybe im blind, but it says 5.8 and one says 5.9 and the third says .4 etc.
nevermind, lol

Is that because I dont have any real engine management at the moment?

My fuel mileage is realy bad and idle is all over the place.
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Yes I still have my mass. I bet there could be an intake leak its not the best setup. Anyone else think so?
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word life

if you can unplug the iac and the idle isnt effected then its bad...whats your vacuum at idle?

Thats because the camera catches the lights flickering on and off.
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That is a wideband right?

16:1 idle doesn't sound normal to me. Does it idle rough? Any cause of missfire including
too much fuel will make the O2 sensor read lean.

Well I jut wend and unpluged the iac at idle and the idle dropped significantly. Plugged it back in and the idle went back up. Vacuum at idle is 19-20.
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It only idles rough when the idle itself is very low, otherwise no. Car runs strong, no missfire or hickups of any sort.
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I would expect an actual 16:1 idle to be rough. Did you mess with any of the crankcase vents that would cause the PCV system to suck in unmetered air? Pull the PCV and stick your finger over the end of it so that the intake can't get air through it. See if it changes the idle.

No change.
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Where is the Wideband sensor located in the exhaust?

after the cat delete "test pipe". Yes it is on the top of the pipe.
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Could the base idle pressure on the AFPR be set wrong?

Can a car even idle at 5:1 afr?

Whats having me scratch my head is that you say it varies, from rich to lean at idle.

Any pattern? Is it correlated to something? Engine temp perhaps?

I'm having a hard time getting past the smooth idle with a 16:1 mix. Can anybody else here idle smooth at 16:1? I normally have to go a touch richer than 14.7 to get a nice idle.

Watch the video, it's not 5:1

13.1 here. Always been like that, stock injectors and 460's. Anything over 14 and its flaky.

DOH...

I re read his first post. Now I see.

I cant watch the video cause im at work.:(

Its not 5:1. The camera catches the led's flashing on and off. The only patten I have noticed is that the car idles lower when cold and higher when warm. Opposite of what it should. The AFR's could be lean or rich. Its as if something is working intermittenmly.
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Here's a couple things that I do know. The intake could be leaking pre turbo, but my vacuum holds steady a 19. After turbo I highly doubt it. I have the pcv routed with a sealed catch in the line. The breater on the drivers side is hooked up with a catch venting to the atmosphere. I removed that air valve that is attached to the intake manifold right above the fuel rail (I had this problem before that). My exhaust probably is leaking before the wideband O2.
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Im starting to think that my best bet is ignore these problem until I get my ms so I can remove the maf and until I get my new exhaust in a couple of weeks.
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just a thought because i have the AEM UEGO..... AFR's can't be read below 10.... i dunno how you're getting 5's and 4's n shit

No offence but how about reading all the posts and watching the videos before you comment.
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I'm going to ban the next person who mentions 4:1 or 5:1 AFR.....

sorry... i was still on the first page when they were talking about 5:1 and by the time i posted you already yelled at him

MAN I DIDN"T EVEN KNOW THERE WAS A VIDEO! hahahahaha it just looked like a simple crop he made around the picture

lmao
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Back on subject, anyone have any other ideas?
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I'm going to go out on a limb and say that your wideband is lying to you. There's either a missfire, a calibration issure, or you have a leak in your exhaust and it's sucking air. I don't think it's possible to have a smooth idle running that lean. Cold start would be a bitch if it's anything near 16:1.

When you unplug the IAC you idle goes down? I thought that it would jump up to about 1500rpm.

Your AFR at idle doesn't look that unusual with an AFPR. I found my old BEGI AFPR to be inconsistent as hell. Things got 100% better when I went with a Link.

If the idle is raising up then I'd suggest an air leak on the intake manifold which would make it run lean and raise the idle.
When you removed the air valve, how did you cap the hole off that was left behind?

If there's a leak post AFM/MAF and before the throttle body then it would run pig rich when driving around but possibly not when idling if it can drag enough air in via the intake manifold.

Worth checking those things anyway - also stick a jumper between TEN and GND in the diagnostic connector. This will bypass the ISC control from the ECU and allow you to check the base idle properly - it should be about 850rpm without any assistance from the ECU.

When I removed the air valve I put a metal plate with cork gasket to seal the hole. There is a good chance that there is a leak post maf before the turbo. If there is im not gonna bother with it as im waiting for my MS to come.
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Though it would be handy to find out if you can trust your wideband readings if you're going to be driving it. Too lean = $$$

sorry levvy.... i was lookin for the video too! and i figured you were gonna post it later on in the day since they didn't look like youtube links

well before I went to get some lunch I played with a couple things. I readjusted the idle at the TB and at the MAF. I test drove the car with the IAC disconnected but the idle was too high. I reconnected it and readjusted my idle. My AFR's look better but im actually very rich at WOT now 11-10. Cruise remains at 14-16 and light throttle around 13. My idle is still very lean 15.5-16. I dont really mind that because it idles fine. I just wish there wasnt so much flutcuation. Like I said earlier, once I get my MS and new exhaust, I will be able to rule out any leaks.
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well the stock computer is still fueling based on the NB o2....so it will sweep around....

btw, ill have your MS shipped monday. i wanted to throw it on my car this weekend before i shipped it out to make certain everything was functional.

Sweet thanks dude. While your at it send it with a nice usable map loaded. :bowrofl:
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Is your AFR gauge all figured out? I would agree that those numbers seem wrong. You never did answer whether this was just an AFR gauge, or a Gauge-type UEGO controller?

If it's the AEM Gaugo-type UEGO controller you may have the setting on the back of the gauge set in the wrong position (?) Although, looking at your display numbers, I can't see that any other setting would make sense either. lol

Double check your power source and grounds. I had my gauge-type UEGO hooked up with a couple other things (power and ground) and it messed up the readings big time. Once I re-wired everything to have a single power/ground for the WB gauge, it worked fine.

Really? How were your readings different? Where did you wire it into?