I overfilled my engine with oil need help
 

I overfilled my engine with oil. Wandering if anybody else has done this.
What exactly can this do to the engine?

It caused the oil to get milky at the pcv valve & oil fill cap like air got mixed in with the oil.

After replacing the filter & oil to the proper level the new oil on the oil fill cap no longer looks milky.

It took about 100 miles of driving & hitting full throttle about only 10 times to cause oil to leak out the turbo compressor.

I may have over filled my oil on my last oil change also 3 months earlier.

How do I know if I damaged the engine bearings or not.

There are brass looking particles in the oil & im trying to determine if they came from the turbo bearings or the engine.

oil came out of the compressor side of the turbo.

I replaced the filter & oil to the proper level & oil still comes out the compressor side of the turbo into the intake pipes & there are sizeable flakes of brass in the oil that came out the compressor side of the turbo into the intake pipes.

I had a cylinder compression test done & the compression was ok.

thanks

how much oil did you "overfill"?

I put in 5 quarts thinking it was 4 & I changed the oil filter.

I may have done it during the previous oil & filter change also because there was no oil left in the 5 quart container which I still had left sitting in my garage & the throttle had that same bloated feel to it.

Do you not check the oil level before starting the car up? Because you should.

I put 4.5-4.75 quarts in my motor. Ive got a decent sized oil cooler plumbed in though.

Engine bearings are not made of brass. Pull your turbo

After you replace the oil and filter, idle the engine to prime the filter before checking the oil level. There is no reason to overfill or top off the oil unless it drops to the low mark.

Holy hell southern, im from Bluff city!!!!!

Yes I checked

I & other Mazdaspeed mx5 owners have noticed the dipstick reads a little higher on one side of the dipstick than the other. If I recall it read real high on one side but on the F mark line on the other side.

Problem was I had mistakenly convinced myself that those 5 qt containers were only 4 quarts.

The way the brain works when it looks at a word the brain only sees the first & last letters then blanks out the middle. And the oil container quantitys started with a 4 so I think thats what happened my brain saw only the 4 & blanked out the middle.

Shredded engine bearings can look like copper/brass/bronze when they are mixed in with your oil.

Here are some micro close up pictures if the oil & particles in the pre compressor intake pipe.

I took one picture after placing a penny into the pipe for size comparison of the brass color particles

http://media7.dropshots.com/photos/5...5/b_153355.jpg

http://media8.dropshots.com/photos/5...5/b_153908.jpg

If you are talking about the large jugs of oil (gallon), they are 4 quarts, which is what I use and end up right perfect oil level every time. Not sure how much oil overfill you would need to contact the crank, which I would imagine would require more than 5 quarts, considering a lot of the oil in in the block and head, not in the pan when running. But if oil was being contacted by the crank, I would think that could cause excessive wear on the main bearings. Hard to tell in the pictures, but it looks like you struck gold!

lol it does look like gold in the oil.

The journal bearings in the IHI RHF5 Mazdaspeed mx5 turbo are exactly the same color as the metal particles in the pictures above.

I went out & rechecked the large Mobil 1 oil container & it say 4.73L/5U.S.Qts

I guess some do come in a convenient 5 quart jug, as most cars require. I know the Rotella T I use comes in a 1 gallon jug, which would be 4 quarts. So yes, my mistake, I guess you do have a 5 quart jug. I still don't see how 5 quarts would be enough to have contact with the crank counterweights. How low on the pan is the return on the MSM? My guess would be the oil got above the return on the pan and maybe restricted return flow and caused it to back up in the turbo and it got past the seals. Does it still leak oil at the turbo after replacing the oil at the correct level? Still not sure how restricted flow would damage a turbo bearing(s), maybe the oil overheated and burned/coked and caused the bearing damage. I haven't done much turbo rebuilding or dealt with many worn turbos, so I'm not real sure of the consequences of that.

I had crap like that come out of my gearbox.

Hell, bluff city is almost in my backyard. I dont know anyone else with a turbo miata around though.

Big jug O oil at a parts store: 4 qts. Big jug O oil at Wal Mart: 5 qts. That's been my experience, YMMV.

I noticed the same thing the other day. I bought some Castrol GTX (for the wife's car) from Napa since I was buying some Napa gold filters anyway (40% off this month). It was a 4 quart jug. I was certain I usually get 5 quart jugs from Walmart where I usually buy it from. When I got home, I compared and yes, Napa sells 4 quart jugs, Walmart sells 5 quart jugs (for pretty much the same money).

Walmart FTW I always get it at walmart and the extra qt is always good for my small oil leak.

I don't think I'd have the balls to go into a Walmart shop. Is it really like that peopleofwalmart.com website?

FWIW, I doubt an extra quart of oil is going to torch an engine or turbo. The weights hitting some oil will not grenade mains. Some folks purposely run with more oil thn recomended for raod course work to ensure no starvation occurs in corners, without problems.

There is something else happening there, not caused by an extra quart of oil.

My guess is that your stock MSM turbo ate it and thats why you have the leaks on the comp side, the flakes of metal, and possibly the PCV issues due all the oil misting into your intake air etc. Those turbos are not exactly the picture of reliability.

I would not drive the car any more than needed with oit like that, pull the turbo, and take a look. My guess is that it is upgrade or replacement time.