if I go with the BEGi s2, what else do I need to worry about on the track?
 

Lets say I go with this and say we hit 230whp on a 1.8 with a torsen rear and 1.8 brakes. What else do I need to anticipate for my car to be reliable on the track? I also have the bigger "automatic" radiator in the car. I think dropping back to the 230whp kit (2554) will make the car much more mechanically reliable. I want to be able to drive the car for everything its worth, and be sure I'm going to make it home from the track.

I'd look into an oil cooler and coolant reroute. Maybe also duel feed your fuel rail. Just some small things to optimize cooling across the board.

the kit comes with a re-route (why would anyone buy the fm kit?). Where can I get a t-stat'd flange for the oil cooler, aside from FM? I don't plan on doing too many track days in the TX heat...but we do have an event scheduled for june. 110* heat scares me.

Does anyone think the 1.8 or the 01 sport brakes can take 230whp on hawk blues?

you're fine with those brakes and blues.

with the turbo, id worry most about heat management, safety, & comfort, the rest of the car should prove solid, minus the clutch.

I have 1.6 brakes at 96whp with motul 600 and hp+ now. I had fade one time, in one corner at a track event...I can't imagine dealing with fade on a car that make more than 2x the current power.

I'm still trying to decide which direction to go, but for now I'm going to make gutting the swap car my next priority, then ms, then the turbo system...I think.

The coolant re-route that is included with the BEGI kit isn't the traditional re-route that everyone refers to. I beleive Stephanie has said there was a regular and the race. The race being the typical re-route that people on miata.net have talked about.

thanks for that. That was a major selling point with me. I'm still not sure if I want to spend this much cash and let it go on easily, or do a little welding and save $1500 or so.

Double check that information with BEGI, I could be wrong.

TIRES
suspension.

I bet you're slower than N/A your first time out with the wheezer.

Azenis are coming.

I have 440/350 GC's with custom valved (factory) bilsteins, fcm stops, nb mounts, good alignment, corner weighted, and new ball joints and bushing.

khumos MXs or Hankook Rs2s will handle the track better.

Soft sidewall MXs better than Azenis? Ick. Had a set on track... crappy track tire. The only thing they did well was handle the heat.

The Rs2s have been doing well out there... but the Azenis is still the king of the street tires last I checked.

My preferences run to Azenis for light track use. Or R compounds, these only after you've out driven the Azenis.

king of autox, but they suck at handling the heat, for the same price I'd try the hankooks, that's what I'll be doing.

i've run both azenis generations on the track and the 615s dont suffer from gooey heat problems nearly as bad. they're also more forgiving at the limit... ie you can dorifto a little before spinning.

I've got the kooks now but have not tried em at the track.

I'd almost suggest some beater track tires like the victoracers.

If you are buying dedicated wheels/tires for the track I'd buy a set of RA-1. They are pretty ok, LOVE the heat and last a long long time.

Do they last longer than azenis on a track only comparison?

I would say so. It'll probably be close. However I'd wager that the Azenis will be heat cycled out FAR before the RA-1. The RA-1 deals with heat really well, makes them a shitty autocross tire but good on the track.

I got my set used, no tread left, only 4 grooves (which I'm told is about 4/32, or half). I autocrossed them for 2 full seasons, one being with a co-driver, I also put about 5000km on the street. Don't have personal experience with them as an exclusive track tire.

Its double the price, and I'd have to trailer the car to the track.

thats why I suggested the 3 i did. all $70-73 each in 205/50/15

That's why I asked if you were going to dedicate tires/wheels for the track. If you are doing double duty, then obviously you aren't going to want R's.

I think the 2560 might actually be safer for track use because it will run a little cooler. Either way I'd keep the boost around 10psi for track events. You'd probably be fine with more, but that's just being real careful.

Right. Larger hotside = better for track.

Having 2 sets of rims/tires would be kick-ass.


So much for kicking boxter ass huh? Dude wants those 911s :bowdown:

I'll have a set of street rubber, but the closest track is 90 minutes away...can I drive that far on the freeway with ra1's?

it was just a base model...no glory there. lol

I'm already scheduled for another big track auto-x this weekend, and seriously considering another 5 sessions on 2/24...but I'm worried about reliability still. I'm incapable of driving the miata conservatively out there.

people drive year round on RA-1s in california. I knew a few people that did that... so I guess the answer is hell yeah 90 minutes.

The one included in our system goes from the motor to the heater then to the radiator. The heater will help remove some of the heat. Or, we will have a "race" re-route available soon that eliminates the path thru the heater.
Stephanie

What is the most concerning? Explain a little more and maybe I can shed some light on reliability or what it needs.
Stephanie

I'm more worried about cooling than anything else, I think your kit will be fine structurally.

The re-route take water from the pump, out the back of the head, right?

Did you ever get my email a month ago for the price quote? I changed directions, and wanted to look at a couple different options since I have a little more cash now.