Thirdlife911

So I bought this miata on friday ( https://www.miataturbo.net/cars-sale-trade-6/1994-mazda-miata-%24%247995-56503/#post711754 )

The car runs great. It had a small tick. I put a heavier weight oil into the car 10w13. I wanna know what your opinions are on the car. It is currently running 12psi. Its by far the quickest car i've ever driven. I love it. The end. Is there anything I should know about with this car? any suggestions? much appreciated.

AARP

Looks nice. First things first, get an actual rollbar.

dstn2bdoa

iTrader: (18)

To Quote Samnavy in the FS thread.

"It looks like everything is there to support 350whp. I'd throw in a coolant-reroute, COPS, an ATI damper, and a real rollbar... and drive that bitch."

18psi

iTrader: (76)

We can't tell you anything you should know about that car since that guy is not a regular and we know nothing about it aside from his classified ad description.

If you're going for 350whp I'd suggest a better IM in addition to what was already suggested.

rider384

iTrader: (3)

Holy ****, not doubting your ability, but do not start to modify that car at all until you research a shitton.

Good buy though, drive the **** out of it for me.

Thirdlife911

What do you mean "IM"?

dstn2bdoa

iTrader: (18)

Intake manifold.

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

From just looking at the classified ad, you may have gotten the best deal I've ever seen on a built Miata. If you talked him down at all, I'm going to challenge somebody to come up with getting more car for less money. You ******* scored. Good job. Now...

See Post#3 above.

If this is the fastest car you've ever driven, then for ***** sake, don't do anything to make it faster yet. The advice in Post#3 is just to make it a bit safer and run a bit better.

Second, take it to a speed-shop and have someone who knows what the **** they're doing and have them do a few dyno pulls. Check the AFR's and do some datalogs... we're talking about $200-$300. They probably won't need to do any tuning, but you want to be damned sure it's running safe. The Link ECU's run out of fidelity at some point... I don't know where. I don't think I've heard of too many guys making more than 300whp on one... but the entire rest of the build will handle just about anything the 3071 can throw at it. If you're thinking that you want more power right away, then I would definitely look again at Post#3. The good thing about the Link is that it's mostly PnP, so swapping in another more capable ECU should be a no-brainer somewhere down the line, but for now, stick with 12psi and enjoy... try not to kill yourself. At 12psi, I'll guesstimate (assuming great tune) that you're in the 260-270whp range with the rest of the engine work, and that the power comes on like a ******* beast around 4500rpm... be wary of punching it unless in a straight line for awhile.

Now... go into USER CP and edit your profile and signature... fill in your location and put the basics about your car in your signature. Don't just put "Dirty South"... if you live in Florida, put the name of the actual City. Somebody here is bound to be very local and can hook you up with a respected tuner... maybe even be nice enough to come over and check out the car, make sure the PO didn't do anything really stupid.

Next... if you've never driven a really fast car before, it's cheap to autocross. Most local SCCA chapters hold auto-X schools throughout the summer. Find your local Miata Club and figure out who the gear-heads are. Learn some car-control under safe situations and live a few more years.

You can also tell us a bit about yourself... who is your daddy and what does he do?

Thirdlife911

Well the guy custom fitted a very nice intake manifold that is enclosed but grabs air from the vents in the hood.

I got the car for 5300. With 17"rims and tires, a journal turbo which is for sale at the moment and a bunch of suspension parts.

I live in port st lucie , Fl. No "Dirty South" here.

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

I spent 3 months working at the Club Med there, nice little town.

Now go get that car on a dyno and report back.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

That's the intake, not intake manifold.


If it doesn't knock, has desent MPGs, and mkaes power, I'd leave it as is until I learn more about it.

GeneSplicer

iTrader: (14)

Incredible find man, I'm jealous - now ya have to learn about it...

We need a MT acronym list for the newbs
MT = MiataTurbo.net

**** - even some of the acronyms confuse me - but at least I search it b/c I don't want to ask like what was just asked...

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Pretty sure we had a thread on that back in the day. People usually catch on and if they don't we flame them for it

GeneSplicer

iTrader: (14)

I'll confess, center hub rotating assembly (CHRA) got me for a while

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

Housing.

GeneSplicer

iTrader: (14)

I stand corrected once again....

Thirdlife911

Lmfao yeah I plan on getting it on a dyno soon.. once I can find someone around here with one. When I watch the A/f throughout the rpms it usually stay right at 11to1 and 14to1 when cruising. So I think the tune on the car is good

Another quick question underload the oil pressure should be at about 60 and idling at about 30?

18psi

iTrader: (76)

11 in cruise is rich as hell. that's what you should be seeing at WOT.
14-15 in cruise is normal.

Not sure about oil press

AARP

What tuning device do you have/planning to get?

Thirdlife911

It has a link management system but i have no clue how to use it. I'm trying to find a thread on it somewhere.

The a/f ratio is some off brand. So is all of the gauges! There custom fitted but my boost gauge has to be off because It blows off when the gauge says its vacumming still for example. Today I gave it a load in 5th gear and it showed -3.5 and then left of the gas and it blew off. So deffinately going to invest in a quality Boost gauge and A/f gauge!