i'm hitting target boost 500rpm late...why?
 

turbo hardware is tight, no exhaust leaks that I know of, intercooler clamps are tight, motor is just as strong when in boost and makes no fuxored noises, AFR is normal...is the cat clogged?

Maybe your tach is off?

Why do you have a cat? You don't strike me as the tree hugging type! I would think a cat, clogged or not would be enough to kill some pretty decent spool.

Yea.....are you really still running a cat?

What kind of timing are you running? You could always pull less timing to spool the turbo faster.

How did you verify that there were no exhaust leaks?

It is jeolus of my 5psi greddy kit. LOL

Did you get a testpipe from enthuza? Try it in place and see if it fixes it.

He posted this spark map in my dyno thread to help me out a while ago:

http://i43.tinypic.com/14vtvrk.jpg

From what I've gathered it's dialed in pretty well, I don't think that's the issue.

first, that didn't work on the dyno...more advance = earlier spool.

second, why did it change?

feather-duster at the joints, lol.

is your boost line expanading :P did your car loose a bunch of weight?

I'd bet you've got a leak between manifold and turbo. You stated in another thread that the hardware was loose on a number of occasions during a track day. This seems like the most likely place to start looking.

i just remembered that and posted it. Going to check it out tomorrow.

How is it late? As in later than you would like or later than before? If it is later than before, mani to turbo leak is most likely. Or loose WG actuator. Or something else. In that order.

what was that stove/vent sealant you chinamen were using for a while? I might try that.

Was this a relatively sudden change (like a week or two, or even just one day) or just compared to a few months ago? Higher ambient temps than before? Clogged air filter?

it did this after the first track day.

damn, the turbo and the downpipe have a good seal on the feather-duster test...clogged cat? I guess I need to pressure test the intercooler pipes too but they seem like they're all tight with a good seal.

WTF is a feather-duster test? Did you try a length of vacuum hose in the ear test?

Small air leaks will displace the feathers on the duster, showing you where air (exhaust) is escaping the system.

Reminds me when i suggested to someone on m.net they use a tissue to do the same test. They refused claiming it would catch on fire and the car would explode. :loser:

yes, but you have to use a real feather duster, not a synthetic one because they melt. Usually Johnwag comes over in his French-Maid outfit to run the test. He's pretty naughty, necessitating discipline.

once it passes the test you can load up the manifold and turbine housing with hot-dogs and burgers in foil. We actually warmed a sandwich at the Lemons race in houston with my manifold. Ceramic coating helps the protein warm evenly, preventing scorching...or you can stuff cup-cake batter in the heat shields and do some baking.

Been hangin with Machismo much?

Feather dusters...right up there with using Vodka to color the exhaust mani.

I used to do that trick to heat up the tacos I had taken from my night job when laying tile in the morning. When the car wasn't hot enough I would set them on top of the work lights in whatever room I was working on until I could smell them. God how I don't miss being poor.

ok, the cat is ultra clean, looks like new. I drove around with the downpipe only and aside from it being apocalyptically loud and being fast as hell, boost still hits at 4700rpm.

How can I check the blow off valve?

hook the top of the BOV to a pre-intercooler boost source, that should make sure itll never leak :P

it also wont open...

at idle the valve whistles and always has...is that bad news? I'm going to just build a tester next week

:bowrofl: I have been called the "Martha Stewart" of the Miata community at times......hey, she's a felon too!

So I took off all intercooler pipes and cleaned them, the problem persists. I also discovered that my heat shield is covered in carbon...so apparently I still have a leak on the hotside.

I guess I'll take the car to arkansas, take the turbo off and file each surface smooth, replace the DP side gasket then make a decision on either bolts or nuts and studs with safety wire on both. The feather duster test lied to me. I'm going to try this safety wire thing one time and if it doesn't work I'm getting a v-band set-up.

where can I get these at a reasonable price?
http://himni-racing.com/images/T25%2...p%20gasket.jpg
preferably local too.

Feather Duster Fail.

You have a gasket between the turbo and dp?

I dont.

New mcmaster studs & these should keep my turbo on:
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y23...r/IMG_0445.jpg

:facepalm:

anyone ever warp a manifold surface?

Nissan dealer, ask for SR20DET or SR18DET motor code.

So you mounted the turbo to the manifold outside the car. Did you still get this on the head in one piece? What turbo is it? I removed my turbo+mf yesterday and had a hard time getting it our of the car, cant imagine getting it back on while the turbo and mf are one piece. GT2560R that is.