Impossible bolt- need tricks and suggestions
trans bellhousing bolt (14mm with nut on front). Stripped threads. Yesterday I Tightened a new nut on the good threads and jb welded the two together. Tried to spin both off by the good nut and the jb weld just broke. I’m thinking 18 hours wasn’t enough cure time so I cleaned everything up and applied some more. But I need other suggestions in case that fails again. |
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How about you do it the right way and replace the bolt and nut?
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I don't think you're going to fit a nut splitter over the nut because it's too close to the block.
It's time to remove one end of the bolt -- the head is probably easier to get to, so I'd try that. Drill, dremel, cutoff wheel, something like that. You might need to pull the motor + tranny together and do it out of the car. --ian |
Definitely looks like a cut it off situation like Ian said. |
Dremel to start, air chisel to finish. Come in from the wheel well. Don't overtighten it next time :)
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Originally Posted by rleete
(Post 1508672)
How about you do it the right way and replace the bolt and nut?
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Alright everyone, looks like I finally have an excuse to buy a dremel! Thanks for the replies.
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If you don't already own the Dremel, don't buy one. They are awful. Get a proper rotary tool that will fit that space, something like a Milwaukee M12 or similar.
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1508680)
If you don't already own the Dremel, don't buy one. They are awful. Get a proper rotary tool that will fit that space, something like a Milwaukee M12 or similar.
I've had the same corded multi-speed dremel tool for about the past 15 years. If their quality has gone downhill in recent years, then I'll retract this comment. But I have beat the absolute hell out of that tool, and it's never let me down. I wish I could post a photo and the model number, but I left it at work this weekend, as I've been using it to modify a set of 30 year old Vinten Fulmar camera pedestals to accept a modern robotic head, and also to lock their leaky pneumatic columns in place. Would I spec this tool for use on an assembly line where it'll be in service for two shifts every day? Hell no. It's a consumer-grade product. But for my needs, it does the job well. |
For small items and small jobs, they are fine. The problem is that nothing on a car is small enough to justify its size and corresponding lack of power. I owned one and threw it away after the collet lock snapped off, dooming it to a lifelong marriage with a broken router bit.
For cutting through the nut and shaft of an M12 bolt, I would not suggest one. |
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1508688)
For cutting through the nut and shaft of an M12 bolt, I would not suggest one.
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1508688)
For small items and small jobs, they are fine. The problem is that nothing on a car is small enough to justify its size and corresponding lack of power. I owned one and threw it away after the collet lock snapped off, dooming it to a lifelong marriage with a broken router bit.
For cutting through the nut and shaft of an M12 bolt, I would not suggest one. |
Originally Posted by dantrapp
(Post 1508676)
Right, whats the first step in replacing a bolt and nut? Removing the bolt... Thanks though guy
The answer to getting it off is a cold chisel; split the nut. |
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1508688)
For small items and small jobs, they are fine. The problem is that nothing on a car is small enough to justify its size and corresponding lack of power. I owned one and threw it away after the collet lock snapped off, dooming it to a lifelong marriage with a broken router bit.
For cutting through the nut and shaft of an M12 bolt, I would not suggest one. --Ian |
When i crack my boat (wood) i use a dremel to router out the crack before applying filler. Dremel is good for light, delicate work, even if it's a big job. In the scenario in which i need to grind down a half inch bolt head, a dremel isn't my first thought. It just doesn't have the balls.
For that i use this: |
Originally Posted by Erat
(Post 1508696)
When i crack my boat (wood) i use a dremel to router out the crack before applying filler. Dremel is good for light, delicate work, even if it's a big job. In the scenario in which i need to grind down a half inch bolt head, a dremel isn't my first thought. It just doesn't have the balls.
For that i use this: https://www.amazon.com/Makita-GD0601.../dp/B001ASC73E --Ian |
These little guys?
Even with these the Dremel stalls out, chews them up too quickly, or doesn't cut off material. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9db59f2203.jpg |
Originally Posted by codrus
(Post 1508698)
I'd use a cutting disc to cut the head off, rather than trying to grind it all away. Dremel will do that fine.
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I just don't know guys. I'm probably doing something completely wrong with my dremel. Don't get me wrong, i absolutely love it and i know it has it's place. But man i just don't remember it cutting through metal, specifically a bolt head that easily.
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