Innovate LC-1 reading funky
 

set everything up according to directions, did initial calibration, and I was getting 50+:1 AFR! Planning on recalibrating the O2 tomm, but any thought in the meantime?

You made sure you calibrated it in open air?

yep. Will redo it tomorrow morning.

Check your grounds

Free Air Calibrated it, getting 25:1 AFR at idle, if I add fuel, it goes down (19:1) but it starts going pop pop pop, which to me seems like it's running TOO rich.

I'm about to check/change grounds. Currently everything is grounded to the ECU mounting panel.

According to the madracki wiring chart, 2A and 2B are grounds. Is either better than the other? How do you check grounds? I'm so electronically challenged.

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/180/4...7924e410_o.jpg

Also, I tapped into the 02 sensor to run NB02 simulation, and unplugged the stock NB02. Will that cause problems?

You should run your sensor ground to an ECU ground, and then ground the other two grounds (heater and I forget the other) separately to a good engine ground. I've read conflicting info on how to ground, but klatinn (one of the innovate techs on their forum) recommends separating the grounds for the best signal. YMMV.

BRG, I'm guessing you're saying that the "other ground" is the analog ground, as I know you've had the LC-1 for a while (before 2007)

when you say "sensor ground", are you referring to system ground?

There are 4 Grounds on the older innovate LC-1

Blue - Heater Ground
White - System Ground
Green - Analog Ground
Black - Calibration Wire

The newer 6 wire Innovate which supercedes the earlier one has 3 grounds

Blue - Heater Ground
White - System Ground
Black - Calibration Wire

According to Innovate's Forums, the Green Analog ground was integrated into the White system ground, because it made no difference.

Hmmm....just checked my wiring to make sure and it looks like my blue wire is grounded to the ecu ground and the white & green grounds are grounded to a good engine ground elsewhere. When I originally wired it up, I used a common ground for all three and got crap readings similar to what you describe. Hope that helps.

awesome.

White and green I have them connected to 1 wire, which goes to ground is that okay?

in other words:

Green\_________ground
White /

I wouldn't see why it wouldn't be; seems like that's what innovate did for thier later LC-1s

danngit. So I:

Red 12V: 1B
Blue Heater Ground: 2B

White System Ground
Green Analog Ground
Black Calibration Ground: all connected to Engine Ground Strap in Engine Bay

Yellow Analog 1: O2 Sensor wiring
Brown Analog 2: Not used

Recalibrated O2 sensor

Car is still getting crappy 20:1 AFR

:(

I would run the heater ground to the chassis or block, and the system ground should be shared with the ECU as you've done.

If you've calibrated the sensor in free air, and you don't have any exhaust leaks, and the sensor isn't damaged, you should be in good shape.

I know I've dropped two sensors in the past when goofing off... that can definitely hurt them. They tend to fall right on their tips.

Also, silicone... If you've ever used silicone anywhere in your exhaust on gaskets/whatever, and you didn't specifically opt for o2 sensor safe silicone, that will toast the sensor quick.

Try moving that heater ground, and if you're still having trouble either shoot Innovate tech support an email or shoot us one at websales AT diyautotune DOT com and we'll hook you up with our guy there who is really quick to get to the bottom of issues like this, or in the rare occasion when all else fails he won't hesitate to replace the unit if it's got an issue (i don't even know if you bought this from us but either way we can help you out with it). Personally I've never had a problem with a properly wired and configured LC-1 myself. I did toast my LM-1 once using an incompatible USB converter... but that was my own fault ;). (Yes, Innovate fixed it for me as they would for anyone, they truly rock...)

Yes, calibrated free air and no exhaust leaks.
Sensor has not been dropped.
Silicone has not been used either.

Where do you recommend I move the heater ground to?
Does grounding everything else to the block at the ground strap seem okay?

Directly to the block would be ideal of course-- the chassis usually works just fine for something like this though and is usually more accessible...

Grounding everything to the block at a single point is generally fine, except in specific situations where you need a separate ground like this so that (in this case) the ECU and LC-1 don't have any voltage differential...