Just Bought First Miata. ..Tell me what Im Workin With
10-19-2010, 08:28 PM
#61
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You just need to make sure you are not on the verge of destroying the engine from poor tuning.
YES
It looks like the PO has pulled the fenders No, It's a body kit.
You mentioned the injectors being 330 then you mentioned something about the second hole. Are the 330 injectors piggy to stock?? Meaning are their 8 injectors in the manifold? No there are two extra injectors in front of the TB being controlled by an antique computer he already mentioned. If so then you could leave them for now and start working on how they handled the extra injectors. There may be a piggyback ECU under the dash somewhere. That may be the wiring mess you referred to in the glove box. Yes, he mentioned that it was. See above.
Is there a FMU? Fuel metering unit? It adds pressure to the fuel when the boost rises. Not needed with aforementioned computer.
Check all hardware. This being a show car probably has had parts come on and off and most of the time it is brought on a trailer. So there will be a high probability that many things aren't put together properly. Plus one!
Those ground cables are more of a gimmick than anything. And they are ugly and distract from the things you actually want people to look at when you pop the hood.
Good luck, Greg
YES
It looks like the PO has pulled the fenders No, It's a body kit.
You mentioned the injectors being 330 then you mentioned something about the second hole. Are the 330 injectors piggy to stock?? Meaning are their 8 injectors in the manifold? No there are two extra injectors in front of the TB being controlled by an antique computer he already mentioned. If so then you could leave them for now and start working on how they handled the extra injectors. There may be a piggyback ECU under the dash somewhere. That may be the wiring mess you referred to in the glove box. Yes, he mentioned that it was. See above.
Is there a FMU? Fuel metering unit? It adds pressure to the fuel when the boost rises. Not needed with aforementioned computer.
Check all hardware. This being a show car probably has had parts come on and off and most of the time it is brought on a trailer. So there will be a high probability that many things aren't put together properly. Plus one!
Those ground cables are more of a gimmick than anything. And they are ugly and distract from the things you actually want people to look at when you pop the hood.
Good luck, Greg
You are a prime candidate for a de-powered steering rack as well. It is an easy process and will free up some space under your hood. You can search for the process here on this forum or google it. It will be really easy since you don't have A/C. It will also free up some horses.
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10-19-2010, 11:50 PM
#62
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http://949racing.com/megasquirt-miata.aspx
Heres where I was looking to get the MSPNP from. Their right down the road from me. Is there anywhere cheaper that sells them or is that as good as its gonna get? And what advantages do other EMs have that the MS doesnt?
i take it I should get the IAT sensor kit and the variable TPS upgrade as well?
What else will I need to order for this set up? I was looking at the LC-1 WB to go with it unless theres a better option for the money.
And for fuel delivery issues, I saw this on their website. Seems legit, but i obviously dont know wtf im talking about. Bigger fuel rail to compliment some RX8 injectors?
http://949racing.com/m-tuned-dual-fe...rail-1600.aspx
Im really interested in what other changes I can make to my Air/Fuel delivery system to start off my fixes. Once I get the MS ill obviously ditch the FUBAR intake tube for a more favorable set up that actually has a damn filter. Should I go ahead and replace the Intercooler-throttle body tube to get rid of the 5th and 6th injector holes, or keep it with the intent of Meth injection or what have you down the road. And is it worth it to upgrade the throttle body?
On previous vehicles Ive just taken it down to a machine shop to get bored out and had them fabricate a bigger butterfly and thrown a spacer between it and the intake mani. Worth the hassle or no? And what about aftermarket Cams, Cam Gears, and crank pullys? Whats out there thats worth a damn, and whats worth replacing?
The oil return line is on my list of priorities for sure, along with cleaning up the existing hoses, wires, and ungodly amounts of hose clamps. Probably wont yank the Grounding system for the time being. Isnt causing any problems and I have bigger fish to fry. Same with the wing and other "pretty" things on it. Show bars gonna get gone as soon as I find a roll bar that I like..
Someone mentioned that the hole in the bumper is dropping the effectiveness of the V-mount. Can you school me up on that because I figured the whole point was to get air through both coolers. Blocking that hole or having a different bumper would only let ram air go past the Rad on the bottom, leaving the intercooler with little to no airflow wouldnt it?
And for the Diff, i realize that the 94+ is a better ring and pinion, but would it be worth it to put a LS in the rear of my stocker? The only reason I ask is I saw one for sale for like 100 bucks and it got me thinkin. If its just gonna be a bandaid on a turd then obviously i wont waste my money but I figured Id ask.
Sorry to bounce around alot. Just trying to get a good plan of attack for the next few weeks.
Heres where I was looking to get the MSPNP from. Their right down the road from me. Is there anywhere cheaper that sells them or is that as good as its gonna get? And what advantages do other EMs have that the MS doesnt?
i take it I should get the IAT sensor kit and the variable TPS upgrade as well?
What else will I need to order for this set up? I was looking at the LC-1 WB to go with it unless theres a better option for the money.
And for fuel delivery issues, I saw this on their website. Seems legit, but i obviously dont know wtf im talking about. Bigger fuel rail to compliment some RX8 injectors?
http://949racing.com/m-tuned-dual-fe...rail-1600.aspx
Im really interested in what other changes I can make to my Air/Fuel delivery system to start off my fixes. Once I get the MS ill obviously ditch the FUBAR intake tube for a more favorable set up that actually has a damn filter. Should I go ahead and replace the Intercooler-throttle body tube to get rid of the 5th and 6th injector holes, or keep it with the intent of Meth injection or what have you down the road. And is it worth it to upgrade the throttle body?
On previous vehicles Ive just taken it down to a machine shop to get bored out and had them fabricate a bigger butterfly and thrown a spacer between it and the intake mani. Worth the hassle or no? And what about aftermarket Cams, Cam Gears, and crank pullys? Whats out there thats worth a damn, and whats worth replacing?
The oil return line is on my list of priorities for sure, along with cleaning up the existing hoses, wires, and ungodly amounts of hose clamps. Probably wont yank the Grounding system for the time being. Isnt causing any problems and I have bigger fish to fry. Same with the wing and other "pretty" things on it. Show bars gonna get gone as soon as I find a roll bar that I like..
Someone mentioned that the hole in the bumper is dropping the effectiveness of the V-mount. Can you school me up on that because I figured the whole point was to get air through both coolers. Blocking that hole or having a different bumper would only let ram air go past the Rad on the bottom, leaving the intercooler with little to no airflow wouldnt it?
And for the Diff, i realize that the 94+ is a better ring and pinion, but would it be worth it to put a LS in the rear of my stocker? The only reason I ask is I saw one for sale for like 100 bucks and it got me thinkin. If its just gonna be a bandaid on a turd then obviously i wont waste my money but I figured Id ask.
Sorry to bounce around alot. Just trying to get a good plan of attack for the next few weeks.
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10-20-2010, 12:10 AM
#63
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http://949racing.com/megasquirt-miata.aspx
http://949racing.com/megasquirt-miata.aspx
Here's where I was looking to get the MSPNP from.Their They're right down the road from me. Is there anywhere cheaper that sells them or is that as good as its gonna get? And what advantages do other EMs have that the MS doesn't?
i take it I should get the IAT sensor kit and the variable TPS upgrade as well?
What else will I need to order for this set up? I was looking at the LC-1 WB to go with it unless there's a better option for the money.
And for fuel delivery issues, I saw this on their website. [It] Seems legit, but i obviously don't know wtf i'm talking about. Bigger fuel rail to compliment some RX8 injectors?
http://949racing.com/m-tuned-dual-fe...rail-1600.aspx
Im really interested in what other changes I can make to my Air/Fuel delivery system to start off my fixes. Once I get the MS ill obviously ditch the FUBAR intake tube for a more favorable set up that actually has a damn filter. Should I go ahead and replace the Intercooler-throttle body tube to get rid of the 5th and 6th injector holes, or keep it with the intent of Meth injection or what have you down the road. And is it worth it to upgrade the throttle body?
On previous vehicles I've just taken it down to a machine shop to get bored out and had them fabricate a bigger butterfly and thrown a spacer between it and the intake mani. Worth the hassle or no?[great sentence, would read again] And what about aftermarket Cams, Cam Gears, and crank pulleys? Whats out there that's worth a damn, and what's worth replacing?
The oil return line is on my list of priorities for sure, along with cleaning up the existing hoses, wires, and ungodly amounts of hose clamps. Probably won't yank the Grounding system for the time being. Isn't causing any problems and I have bigger fish to fry. Same with the wing and other "pretty" things on it. Show bars gonna get gone as soon as I find a roll bar that I like..
Someone mentioned that the hole in the bumper is dropping the effectiveness of the V-mount. Can you school me up on that because I figured the whole point was to get air through both coolers. Blocking that hole or having a different bumper would only let ram air go past the Rad on the bottom, leaving the intercooler with little to no airflow wouldnt it?(what?)
And for the Diff, i realize that the 94+ is a better ring and pinion, but would it be worth it to put a LS in the rear of my stocker? The only reason I ask is I saw one for sale for like 100 bucks and it got me thinkin. If it's just gonna be a bandaid on a turd then obviously i wont waste my money but I figured Id ask.
Sorry to bounce around a_lot. [Pro-noun]Just trying to get a good plan of attack for the next few weeks.
http://949racing.com/megasquirt-miata.aspx
Here's where I was looking to get the MSPNP from.
i take it I should get the IAT sensor kit and the variable TPS upgrade as well?
What else will I need to order for this set up? I was looking at the LC-1 WB to go with it unless there's a better option for the money.
And for fuel delivery issues, I saw this on their website. [It] Seems legit, but i obviously don't know wtf i'm talking about. Bigger fuel rail to compliment some RX8 injectors?
http://949racing.com/m-tuned-dual-fe...rail-1600.aspx
Im really interested in what other changes I can make to my Air/Fuel delivery system to start off my fixes. Once I get the MS ill obviously ditch the FUBAR intake tube for a more favorable set up that actually has a damn filter. Should I go ahead and replace the Intercooler-throttle body tube to get rid of the 5th and 6th injector holes, or keep it with the intent of Meth injection or what have you down the road. And is it worth it to upgrade the throttle body?
On previous vehicles I've just taken it down to a machine shop to get bored out and had them fabricate a bigger butterfly and thrown a spacer between it and the intake mani. Worth the hassle or no?[great sentence, would read again] And what about aftermarket Cams, Cam Gears, and crank pulleys? Whats out there that's worth a damn, and what's worth replacing?
The oil return line is on my list of priorities for sure, along with cleaning up the existing hoses, wires, and ungodly amounts of hose clamps. Probably won't yank the Grounding system for the time being. Isn't causing any problems and I have bigger fish to fry. Same with the wing and other "pretty" things on it. Show bars gonna get gone as soon as I find a roll bar that I like..
Someone mentioned that the hole in the bumper is dropping the effectiveness of the V-mount. Can you school me up on that because I figured the whole point was to get air through both coolers. Blocking that hole or having a different bumper would only let ram air go past the Rad on the bottom, leaving the intercooler with little to no airflow wouldnt it?(what?)
And for the Diff, i realize that the 94+ is a better ring and pinion, but would it be worth it to put a LS in the rear of my stocker? The only reason I ask is I saw one for sale for like 100 bucks and it got me thinkin. If it's just gonna be a bandaid on a turd then obviously i wont waste my money but I figured Id ask.
Sorry to bounce around a_lot. [Pro-noun]Just trying to get a good plan of attack for the next few weeks.
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10-20-2010, 10:30 AM
#64
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949 is definitely legit. And they are one of our forum sponsors.
You won't need a bigger fuel rail. Like you said about something else, you have bigger fish to fry.
Leave the injector ports in the piping for locations for your IAT and a meth injection nozzle or some other goodies. Only fix what is immediately necessary for proper running without failure.
I would not assume that "Francis Fabulous" actually did "fully build" the motor. I would proceed under the premise that it has stock internals (which is fine) and just not worry about it. The stock internals are good for more than twice the stock WHP so it isn't a concern at this point.
I didn't identify your rear differential but if it is a stock 1.6 you can really just leave it until it fails and deal with it then. 1.8 diffs are plentiful, inexpensive, and strong. You will not make enough torque with the 1.6 engine to justify the expense and hassle of a non-Miata diff so just let that thought go. Spend your money elsewhere.
The LC-1 wideband or the AEM wideband controller are common choices. There are multiple sources on the net for each. DIY Autotune is a forum sponsor that is an inexspensive source for some of these items.
The throttle body size will be fine. There are some choices for aftermarket cams but they won't be as necessary to upgrade on a turbocharged vehicle as they are for a naturally aspirated one. There are people who have made three times the factory power on stock cams with a good turbo setup. With a turbo car you can have great economy and efficiency from mild cams and then a raging beast when the turbo starts performing.
Everyone is encouraging you not to run your car in boost right now because there are some glaring problems with your current fueling and spark system that likely will cause broken piston rings and pistons if you do. We are only hoping that the previous owner didn't damage internal parts already.
For additional spark capability up the road, you might look into adding a COPs setup to your car. I think there is a thread stickied in the for sale section where Savington is still making them. It is a higher energy Coil On Plug ignition system for stronger spark. Our factory ignition coils are known to be a little weak under pressure.
Variable TPS is good.
I could use several pictures inside the "mouth" of the bumper to see how your heat exchangers are sealed up. I think there was some question about that. That is minor compared to some of the other things we are looking at.
I still think the de-powered steering rack would be a great thing for giving you more room to work and route things under your hood.
EDIT: Don't mind Hustler. He likes to ban noobs who talk back, so let it go. I think he is politely asking for you to compose your thoughts in a complete and orderly fashion to aid in comprehension by others.
That is what is looks like when he asks nicely.
You won't need a bigger fuel rail. Like you said about something else, you have bigger fish to fry.
Leave the injector ports in the piping for locations for your IAT and a meth injection nozzle or some other goodies. Only fix what is immediately necessary for proper running without failure.
I would not assume that "Francis Fabulous" actually did "fully build" the motor. I would proceed under the premise that it has stock internals (which is fine) and just not worry about it. The stock internals are good for more than twice the stock WHP so it isn't a concern at this point.
I didn't identify your rear differential but if it is a stock 1.6 you can really just leave it until it fails and deal with it then. 1.8 diffs are plentiful, inexpensive, and strong. You will not make enough torque with the 1.6 engine to justify the expense and hassle of a non-Miata diff so just let that thought go. Spend your money elsewhere.
The LC-1 wideband or the AEM wideband controller are common choices. There are multiple sources on the net for each. DIY Autotune is a forum sponsor that is an inexspensive source for some of these items.
The throttle body size will be fine. There are some choices for aftermarket cams but they won't be as necessary to upgrade on a turbocharged vehicle as they are for a naturally aspirated one. There are people who have made three times the factory power on stock cams with a good turbo setup. With a turbo car you can have great economy and efficiency from mild cams and then a raging beast when the turbo starts performing.
Everyone is encouraging you not to run your car in boost right now because there are some glaring problems with your current fueling and spark system that likely will cause broken piston rings and pistons if you do. We are only hoping that the previous owner didn't damage internal parts already.
For additional spark capability up the road, you might look into adding a COPs setup to your car. I think there is a thread stickied in the for sale section where Savington is still making them. It is a higher energy Coil On Plug ignition system for stronger spark. Our factory ignition coils are known to be a little weak under pressure.
Variable TPS is good.
I could use several pictures inside the "mouth" of the bumper to see how your heat exchangers are sealed up. I think there was some question about that. That is minor compared to some of the other things we are looking at.
I still think the de-powered steering rack would be a great thing for giving you more room to work and route things under your hood.
EDIT: Don't mind Hustler. He likes to ban noobs who talk back, so let it go. I think he is politely asking for you to compose your thoughts in a complete and orderly fashion to aid in comprehension by others.
That is what is looks like when he asks nicely.
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10-20-2010, 06:22 PM
#65
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[QUOTE=Darthteddy;645651]http://949racing.com/megasquirt-miata.aspx
The oil return line is on my list of priorities for sure, along with cleaning up the existing hoses, wires, and ungodly amounts of hose clamps. Probably wont yank the Grounding system for the time being. Isnt causing any problems and I have bigger fish to fry. Same with the wing and other "pretty" things on it. Show bars gonna get gone as soon as I find a roll bar that I like..
Someone mentioned that the hole in the bumper is dropping the effectiveness of the V-mount. Can you school me up on that because I figured the whole point was to get air through both coolers. Blocking that hole or having a different bumper would only let ram air go past the Rad on the bottom, leaving the intercooler with little to no airflow wouldnt it?
[QUOTE]
The line running over the top of the valve cover should be a pressure line. The oil pressure sender is on the right side of the engine and the oil line to the turbo is teed into the block there. But it looks like the line was too short so it was ran over the valve cover. This is a guess of course. Due to the diameter and location. The return line should be 1/2 in diameter.
The hole I mentioned is between the radiator support and the bumper cover. There are aftermarket cover plates to block this area off but one could be made easily with sheel aluminum. Hmm let me find a picture.
http://www.mmmiata.com/images/products/MM147-RCP1.jpg
This will block the air from coming in the front of the bumper and going up over the radiator support and bypassing the intercooler.
Greg
The oil return line is on my list of priorities for sure, along with cleaning up the existing hoses, wires, and ungodly amounts of hose clamps. Probably wont yank the Grounding system for the time being. Isnt causing any problems and I have bigger fish to fry. Same with the wing and other "pretty" things on it. Show bars gonna get gone as soon as I find a roll bar that I like..
Someone mentioned that the hole in the bumper is dropping the effectiveness of the V-mount. Can you school me up on that because I figured the whole point was to get air through both coolers. Blocking that hole or having a different bumper would only let ram air go past the Rad on the bottom, leaving the intercooler with little to no airflow wouldnt it?
[QUOTE]
The line running over the top of the valve cover should be a pressure line. The oil pressure sender is on the right side of the engine and the oil line to the turbo is teed into the block there. But it looks like the line was too short so it was ran over the valve cover. This is a guess of course. Due to the diameter and location. The return line should be 1/2 in diameter.
The hole I mentioned is between the radiator support and the bumper cover. There are aftermarket cover plates to block this area off but one could be made easily with sheel aluminum. Hmm let me find a picture.
http://www.mmmiata.com/images/products/MM147-RCP1.jpg
This will block the air from coming in the front of the bumper and going up over the radiator support and bypassing the intercooler.
Greg
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10-20-2010, 06:43 PM
#66
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Originally Posted by DOHCPanther
You just need to make sure you are not on the verge of destroying the engine from poor tuning.
YES
It looks like the PO has pulled the fenders No, It's a body kit.
You mentioned the injectors being 330 then you mentioned something about the second hole. Are the 330 injectors piggy to stock?? Meaning are their 8 injectors in the manifold? No there are two extra injectors in front of the TB being controlled by an antique computer he already mentioned. If so then you could leave them for now and start working on how they handled the extra injectors. There may be a piggyback ECU under the dash somewhere. That may be the wiring mess you referred to in the glove box. Yes, he mentioned that it was. See above.
Is there a FMU? Fuel metering unit? It adds pressure to the fuel when the boost rises. Not needed with aforementioned computer.
Check all hardware. This being a show car probably has had parts come on and off and most of the time it is brought on a trailer. So there will be a high probability that many things aren't put together properly. Plus one!
Those ground cables are more of a gimmick than anything. And they are ugly and distract from the things you actually want people to look at when you pop the hood.
Good luck, Greg
You just need to make sure you are not on the verge of destroying the engine from poor tuning.
YES
It looks like the PO has pulled the fenders No, It's a body kit.
You mentioned the injectors being 330 then you mentioned something about the second hole. Are the 330 injectors piggy to stock?? Meaning are their 8 injectors in the manifold? No there are two extra injectors in front of the TB being controlled by an antique computer he already mentioned. If so then you could leave them for now and start working on how they handled the extra injectors. There may be a piggyback ECU under the dash somewhere. That may be the wiring mess you referred to in the glove box. Yes, he mentioned that it was. See above.
Is there a FMU? Fuel metering unit? It adds pressure to the fuel when the boost rises. Not needed with aforementioned computer.
Check all hardware. This being a show car probably has had parts come on and off and most of the time it is brought on a trailer. So there will be a high probability that many things aren't put together properly. Plus one!
Those ground cables are more of a gimmick than anything. And they are ugly and distract from the things you actually want people to look at when you pop the hood.
Good luck, Greg
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10-20-2010, 09:03 PM
#69
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What was said about the hole in front of the cooler makes so much more sense now. Will covers on the market fit with the current V-mount set up or will it be easier for me to just Fabricate one?
I will more then likely try to get most of my parts from 949, simply because they are just down the road and it will save on shipping. I need to give them a call soon and see what they can do for me.
Will the turbo's oil line be fine going to the location it is now if the hose is re routed, or is it a Must to relocate it.
Is a coolant re-route something I should be planning for in the near future, or is that gonna be later down the road?
I will more then likely try to get most of my parts from 949, simply because they are just down the road and it will save on shipping. I need to give them a call soon and see what they can do for me.
Will the turbo's oil line be fine going to the location it is now if the hose is re routed, or is it a Must to relocate it.
Is a coolant re-route something I should be planning for in the near future, or is that gonna be later down the road?
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10-21-2010, 03:03 PM
#70
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It is a strong recommendation for anyone making more than a few pounds of boost. Number four piston gets cracked commonly on cars that are running boost with no re-route because it receives the least cooling and is likely the first to see detonation.
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10-21-2010, 09:13 PM
#71
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dunno if anyone cares but that's a sheepdog BOV. they all flutter like that, my friend had em on his 300zx. if you don't want it or are concerned about the fluttering, sell it to some JDM nut, those things are hard to find
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10-21-2010, 10:30 PM
#72
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Unless theres another BOV that will perform better, doubt ill be taking the SD one off any time soon. I could really care less what sound it makes. Its good to know what I have however.
Ill have to add the coolant Re Route to my growing to do list.
Ill have to add the coolant Re Route to my growing to do list.
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10-25-2010, 08:35 PM
#75
Lots of things mentioned already, but frankly if I were new to Miatas and down the road from 949, I'd consider limping this car there when Emilio is around and have him take a look/take in as much info as you can.
The info provided here has been on point- just saying he's well respected, in the area, knowledgeable and your planning to purchase from him
The info provided here has been on point- just saying he's well respected, in the area, knowledgeable and your planning to purchase from him
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10-25-2010, 08:51 PM
#76
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What would you like pictures of specifically? I'm out tinkerin with it right now.
Does anyone happen to have pictures of the stock side view mirrow atachment points with the mirror removed? I want to get rid of the god aweful ones on itnow but I have no clue what's under the riveted on aluminum.
Does anyone happen to have pictures of the stock side view mirrow atachment points with the mirror removed? I want to get rid of the god aweful ones on itnow but I have no clue what's under the riveted on aluminum.
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10-25-2010, 10:03 PM
#77
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Went out and took a few pics. Tell me what else you want.
I do have a question about the Turbo/Manifold. Ran into a guy the other day who used to have a turbo'd Miata at one point and he was checkin out the car. He brought to my attention that He didnt think it was a Greddy manifold or turbo. Can anyone confirm or deny this for me, and also identify what size flange is currently on it. He seemed to think the Turbo its self was a chinese knockoff and that the manifold was a custom one.
In any case Id like to get a new ball bearing turbo, as well as an upgraded wastegate.
This weekend I also picked up an HID kit for 20 bucks off the guy who was looking at the miata that he had laying around after he sold it, and installed a temporary boost gauge in the dash to moniter just how much boost its getting right now. The HID kits a H4 set up, so i assume im going to have to upgrade my stock H3 housings. Is that as simple as remove and replace the old ones, or is it a little more in depth?
On to the pictures.
I do have a question about the Turbo/Manifold. Ran into a guy the other day who used to have a turbo'd Miata at one point and he was checkin out the car. He brought to my attention that He didnt think it was a Greddy manifold or turbo. Can anyone confirm or deny this for me, and also identify what size flange is currently on it. He seemed to think the Turbo its self was a chinese knockoff and that the manifold was a custom one.
In any case Id like to get a new ball bearing turbo, as well as an upgraded wastegate.
This weekend I also picked up an HID kit for 20 bucks off the guy who was looking at the miata that he had laying around after he sold it, and installed a temporary boost gauge in the dash to moniter just how much boost its getting right now. The HID kits a H4 set up, so i assume im going to have to upgrade my stock H3 housings. Is that as simple as remove and replace the old ones, or is it a little more in depth?
On to the pictures.
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10-25-2010, 10:19 PM
#79
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That doesn't look anything like the Greddy Miata kit turbo or manifold. The Greddy uses a cast iron mani and a four bolt connection to the turbine housing. Interestingly enough, I have see a similar three bolt setup on a buddy's Greddy kit on his Skyline. So it may be a Greddy turbo but a custom manifold. FWIW my friend's three bolt Greddy turbo is a TD06 design. You might do well to get a close-up pic of the serial number plate on the front of the compressor. I saw it in one of the pics but it needs some enhancement/focus.
Edit: Yes, that definitely looks like a Mitsubishi turbo (what Greddy uses) by looking at the center housing.
Edit: Yes, that definitely looks like a Mitsubishi turbo (what Greddy uses) by looking at the center housing.
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