Just did first logs, oh god what am I looking at?!
1 Attachment(s)
Well finally got a laptop to do logs/tune my MS with. Bought tunerstudio pro, worked quickly, went out and did logs.
Now what? I'm pretty sure I'm running too rich. Car was tuned by UMS Tuning in Phx when previous owner had the car. What file do I post? Thanks guys :idea: |
Log is attached now.
|
How do I adjust boost?
|
I assume you have your AFR targets set. If so skip the logging and use VE Analyze Live to take care of those AFR's then smooth them over by hand. This method worked much better for me than logging, analyzing, logging, and repeating.
|
No clue what any of that means. I am an absolute noob to tuning. I don't want to mess anything up changing stuff. (yet)
So I'm not sure what you mean by AFR targets set? I just want to have the car run good. It runs well now but last owner said it was VERY conservative tune, so Id like to get some more power out of it. |
I don't have my tuning laptop on hand at the moment but if I remember correctly your AFR Target Table should be in the "More Settings" tab.
You'll want to set this table to give the computer something to shoot for. What wideband are you using? If it's the LC-1 it should be in Air/Fuel but the AEM may be in volts (in which case you'll want to search the boards for the thread that teaches you how to hack the file). VE Analyze Live is a great feature in TS that will correct your VE tables as you drive. It will get them close but it's not perfect. However it honestly sounds like you need to do some more reading. If you're unfamiliar with AFR targets you're not quite ready to tune your own car. |
Doesn't look too bad at first glance. Your AFRs are mid to low 12s in boost. Could be a little richer for safety's sake but if there's no knock you should be ok because it's not boosting extremely high. Your idle AFRs are somewhat lean. Does it lope or have a subtle miss at idle? If so you may have to richen it up some.
Also add a spark angle trace to your log. It seems like it has a lot of advance in boost, you may want to trim that back some to be safe. 26-27% is kind of risky in boost unless your running race gas. Of course every car is different so wait for some other opinions other than mine. I'm still learning myself. Plus I'm hungry, tired and horny and it's probably throwing me off a little.:giggle: |
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by jbrown7815
(Post 593344)
No clue what any of that means. I am an absolute noob to tuning. I don't want to mess anything up changing stuff. (yet)
So I'm not sure what you mean by AFR targets set? I just want to have the car run good. It runs well now but last owner said it was VERY conservative tune, so Id like to get some more power out of it. Attachment 196487 **EDIT - D.Dutton took the words right out of my mouth, lol |
Originally Posted by lordrigamus
(Post 593352)
Doesn't look too bad at first glance. Your AFRs are mid to low 12s in boost. Could be a little richer for safety's sake but if there's no knock you should be ok because it's not boosting extremely high. Your idle AFRs are somewhat lean. Does it lope or have a subtle miss at idle? If so you may have to richen it up some.
Also add a spark angle trace to your log. It seems like it has a lot of advance in boost, you may want to trim that back some to be safe. 26-27% is kind of risky in boost unless your running race gas. Of course every car is different so wait for some other opinions other than mine. I'm still learning myself. Plus I'm hungry, tired and horny and it's probably throwing me off a little.:giggle: My AFR gauge goes down to low tens under boost/WOT... I was under the impression it was running too rich, not lean. I am using the LC1 btw |
Cspence is right about that being the AFR targets but DO NOT change them in Megalogviewer. I did this once by accident and it corrupted my msq leading to a reflash of the unit.
Make sure you change them in either MT or TS |
Your log says otherwise, do your gauge and MS AFRs match? If not you may have to change some settings somewhere. I wouldn't get too excited about boosting until your settings are correct. Small steps, my friend, small steps.
|
Originally Posted by lordrigamus
(Post 593360)
Your log says otherwise, do your gauge and MS AFRs match?
|
How do i save my MSQ to my computer, etc? So I can back my tune up...
|
Originally Posted by jbrown7815
(Post 593362)
How do i save my MSQ to my computer, etc?
|
So how do I adjust my boost?
Does it make sense my boost adjusts accorinf to the heat? Max boost I ever see is 10 psi, id like to put it up to 11-12 |
Make sure everything else is right first, then worry about your boost. It doesn't matter how much boost you make if your motor is melted into a cast iron ingot.
Make a list of things you're curious about then search the threads that relate to them. Make sure you understand what your seeing and what your tuning before getting too crazy. SMALL STEPS! |
According to the last owner this tune is "SUPER CONSERVATIVE"
It also smells rich when running, and I get LOTS of back firing... So I'm not starting from scratch, I just want to figure out how good the tune is, etc |
is it bad I let TunerStudio auto detect the firmware when I started the new project?
|
Conservative usually means a rich ve table and low spark advance under boost. Both of which are done to prevent knock.
And no, I recommend letting TS Auto Detect. |
This stuff is so much more complicated than any of the stuff I work on for the Air Force...
and I work on some overcomplicated stuff in the AF.... lol |
You're biggest goal at first should be a nice stable idle and proper AFR.
At idle listen carefully for any misfires, if so you'll want to richen that area up. This varies by car, some can idle just fine at 15 while others may need more fuel. Mine for instance idles just right at around 14.2. The AFR's while driving are pretty simple: 14.7 at cruise (some people like to run a little more lean for MPG), 13.5 around 0 vacuum, 12.5 around low boost (4-8lbs) and a little more rich in high boost. Work your way into boost. Start with small drives and watch the little blue dot on the VE table. Try to hit all the cells while staying out of boost. For instance, let your boost gauge sit around 10lbs vacuum and let the car rev to 4 or 5K. Then, when your AFRs are correct and stable you can start adding a little boost. If you're using VE Analyze Live make sure you stop occasionally and burn the results so it has a new base to work with. Also, don't let VE Analyze attempt to tune idle; so set the low RPM limit to 1500. |
It takes a while but it will become clear with time. On that note, I'm spent, check back tomorrow. There should be more opinions. In the mean time, check your wideband settings and make sure everything looks good. You have to have reliable AFRs in order to tune otherwise it will be a fruitless endeavor.
|
Oh yeah forgot to mention, MY MPG IS BAD.
22 on highway, 21 in city.... |
Originally Posted by lordrigamus
(Post 593381)
You have to have reliable AFRs in order to tune otherwise it will be a fruitless endeavor.
If your physical gauge and virtual gauge are showing different numbers then none of this is doing you any good. If they're off by more than .4 or so you need to check your settings. Ok, so when you're just cruising at 60 mph what does your LC-1 Read? |
Originally Posted by d.dutton9512
(Post 593379)
you're biggest goal at first should be a nice stable idle and proper afr.
At idle listen carefully for any misfires, if so you'll want to richen that area up. This varies by car, some can idle just fine at 15 while others may need more fuel. Mine for instance idles just right at around 14.2. The afr's while driving are pretty simple: 14.7 at cruise (some people like to run a little more lean for mpg), 13.5 around 0 vacuum, 12.5 around low boost (4-8lbs) and a little more rich in high boost. Work your way into boost. Start with small drives and watch the little blue dot on the ve table. Try to hit all the cells while staying out of boost. For instance, let your boost gauge sit around 10lbs vacuum and let the car rev to 4 or 5k. Then, when your afrs are correct and stable you can start adding a little boost. If you're using ve analyze live make sure you stop occasionally and burn the results so it has a new base to work with. Also, don't let ve analyze attempt to tune idle; so set the low rpm limit to 1500. |
So VE Analyze Live tunes the car auto or what?
|
Originally Posted by jbrown7815
(Post 593385)
So VE Analyze Live tunes the car auto or what?
So if your AFR target is 14.7 and the car is running at 13 it will only change the value so much and it may or may not make it perfect. However a few good runs while running VEA should get things close. It's not magic though: you'll still have some hand tuning to do. You also need to read up on EGO correction. This is the system built into the MS unit itself which modifies your fuel on the fly. It should be covered in that post I PM'ed you. |
Went out with a buddy and did the auto tune. Kinda fun trying to cover all the spots and what not...
|
You need to chase the grounds on your LC-1 and make sure they go to the same chunk of metal, on separate lugs on the engine.
|
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 593853)
on separate lugs on the engine.
|
Originally Posted by D.dutton9512
(Post 593856)
Really? I run them so the exact same grounding point. I wonder if that would explain the .3-.6 difference I get.
|
Thanks for the info. I'll fix it tonight.
Although I'm not really sure what directions you are reading. According to DIY's site: " You should ground the wideband's main ground together WITH the ECU." and " I'd suggest leaving the factory connection alone and sinply putting a ring terminal on the wire you need to ground for your wideband, grab a new nut, and add your ring terminal on top of this one leaving the old connection just as it was." and "Instead, ground the wideband under the hood right at the source where the ECU harness itself gets it's ground." But hey, everyone has their interpretation... |
Hustler is probably referring to the instructions in the one of the MS manuals.
http://www.megamanual.com/mtabcon.htm Tons of info, great for reference and links to subsections and code variants. http://www.msextra.com/doc/index.html Manual for the extra codes. |
Read the LC-1 instructions.
|
I use an AEM
|
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 594086)
Read the LC-1 instructions.
Damn it, I should read before I post. Read the AEM ones too.:giggle: |
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:08 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands