Just picked up a turbo Miata, got some questions!
4 Attachment(s)
First off, let me say that I hope I'm posting this in the right spot, if not, please let me know. The rollbar had a 'MiataTurbo.net' sticker it, so I decided to check this site out.
I just picked up a 1996 turbo Miata, and let me tell you, its a blast. I previously had a modded Ford Focus, it was my baby. But after driving this thing, I had to pick it up (especially for the price of $4,000). The power is great, and getting used to the whole RWD thing is a ton of fun. I'm in the Appleton, WI area, so if anyone is around, feel free to say hi. I don't see too many Miatas around here. Anyway, here is the mods, followed with some pics and then a few questions: Bell Engineering Ceramic Coated Cast Iron Manifold Bell Engineering Stainless Steel Divorced Wastegate Downpipe Garrett GT2554 @ ~10-12psi AVO Front Mount Intercooler (26x8x3) AEM Fuel Ignition Controller tuned at Beyond Redline Bell Engineering Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator AutoMeter A-Pillar gauge pod Stewart Warner Boost Gauge AEM UEGO Air/Fuel meter 305cc Green Top Injectors Voodoo III Manual Boost Controller OBX Catback Exhaust ACT Heavy Duty Clutch Adjustable Coilovers (I think eBay, not sure) Front springs are 450lb and the rears are 350lb KYB ABX 8-way adjustable shocks Boss Frog Clearview 6 point Roll Bar Flyin' Miata Frame Rail Reinforcement Kit Hella E-Code H4 Headlights Vented Headlight Lids (which I kinda want to get rid of) Smoked Clear Corners Kosei K1's Attachment 194016 Attachment 194017 Attachment 194018 Attachment 194019 Now for the questions:
I know I wrote a ton, and there will probably be more later on. I'm totally new to these cars and motors, and if anything I'm here to learn. I'm not new to cars, thats for sure, I just would like to be pointed in the right direction. Sorry about all the questions, it's just how I am :giggle: |
*This space for sale for incoming epic thread*
:giggle: |
I'm fairly new too... But off the top of my head...
the OBX Catback Exhaust doesn't flow the best and should be upgraded (check out the site sponsors and they'll show you the way) I'd also keep the vented healight lid (at least one of them near the air filter) That being said, I can't see any pics of the car on my computer and this might be useless info. |
You're not going to get a whole lot more out of that turbo... and if you do the transmission will be the next weak link. You oughta read up on coolant reroutes.
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you need proper engine management first!
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Originally Posted by WonTon
(Post 636298)
you need proper engine management first!
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yup, worry bout that first. then all the other shit!
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Car looks like a clean straight example, so kudos there. You have an interesting mix of premium and discount parts that went into its build though. Still, for what you paid for the car, I'd say you did well for value for money.
My initial concerns: You're running a bandaid setup with the F/IC and the FPR and small injectors. I would investigate what size injectors the F/IC can handle and choose something quite a bit larger. 460cc or 550cc are popular sizes on here with the Megasquirt croud. The generally agreed upon safe output for an internally stock BP is around 250 whp. As for the rich smell, are you running a catalytic convertor? Do you have the AEM UEGO hooked up? What do your AFRs look like when idling, cruising, WOT, etc. |
Damn... That's a beautiful car for the money. I just paid $3600 for my bone stock '97 with bald tires and a bad rear window :vash:
Well done. Can't help you much with your questions as I am new here as well; just wanted to give you props on the purchase. |
your doing 2 things right off the bat, grate heat shield and pick of the car on track for your first post gives you newb first class and less first post trolling.
for 4k that was saw stolen, owner had more money then brains, or sold your soul. |
Originally Posted by turbofan
(Post 636314)
Damn... That's a beautiful car for the money. I just paid $3600 for my bone stock '97 with bald tires and a bad rear window :vash:
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Dang, this car's getting around :giggle: I built it from stock a few years ago, and am responsible for most of the parts (including the rollbar sticker) except the new ECU. Lemme know if you have any specific questions about the car!
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Originally Posted by spyder3423
(Post 636261)
first off, let me say that i hope i'm posting this in the right spot, if not, please let me know. The rollbar had a 'miataturbo.net' sticker it, so i decided to check this site out.
Bell engineering ceramic coated cast iron manifold bell engineering stainless steel divorced wastegate downpipe garrett gt2554 @ ~10-12psi avo front mount intercooler (26x8x3) aem fuel ignition controller tuned at beyond redline bell engineering adjustable fuel pressure regulator autometer a-pillar gauge pod stewart warner boost gauge aem uego air/fuel meter 305cc green top injectors voodoo iii manual boost controller obx catback exhaust act heavy duty clutch adjustable coilovers (i think ebay, not sure) front springs are 450lb and the rears are 350lb kyb abx 8-way adjustable shocks boss frog clearview 6 point roll bar flyin' miata frame rail reinforcement kit hella e-code h4 headlights vented headlight lids (which i kinda want to get rid of) smoked clear corners kosei k1's now for the questions:
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what he said! ^^^^ or go throught the headache im goin through by doin a chassis swap for OBDI! :giggle:
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BTW- the PO was touge4life..... car can be seen in the FS section on here. You know, for anyone looking for information about what the PO had on here.
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Wow, thanks for the warm welcome everyone. All the responses are great!
Originally Posted by Preluding
(Post 636285)
I'm fairly new too... But off the top of my head...
the OBX Catback Exhaust doesn't flow the best and should be upgraded (check out the site sponsors and they'll show you the way) I'd also keep the vented healight lid (at least one of them near the air filter) That being said, I can't see any pics of the car on my computer and this might be useless info.
Originally Posted by ianferrell
(Post 636294)
You're not going to get a whole lot more out of that turbo... and if you do the transmission will be the next weak link. You oughta read up on coolant reroutes.
Originally Posted by WonTon
(Post 636298)
you need proper engine management first!
Originally Posted by Trent
(Post 636306)
Car looks like a clean straight example, so kudos there. You have an interesting mix of premium and discount parts that went into its build though. Still, for what you paid for the car, I'd say you did well for value for money.
My initial concerns: You're running a bandaid setup with the F/IC and the FPR and small injectors. I would investigate what size injectors the F/IC can handle and choose something quite a bit larger. 460cc or 550cc are popular sizes on here with the Megasquirt croud. The generally agreed upon safe output for an internally stock BP is around 250 whp. As for the rich smell, are you running a catalytic convertor? Do you have the AEM UEGO hooked up? What do your AFRs look like when idling, cruising, WOT, etc. And I'm unsure about the catalytic converter, I believe there is one on here, but I will check. I haven't really paid attention to the AFRs at idle or while I'm cruising, but I do know that at WOT when I'm in boost they go between 10-11.
Originally Posted by SamS
(Post 636337)
Dang, this car's getting around :giggle: I built it from stock a few years ago, and am responsible for most of the parts (including the rollbar sticker) except the new ECU. Lemme know if you have any specific questions about the car!
Originally Posted by TurboTim
(Post 636338)
If you know how to tune, 270rwhp I guess. I've been at 290ish and am starting to smell oil burning on hi rpm/hi vacuum. This is assuming you're running a GT2560R, not the 2554.
it is durable if your tune is good I would get rid of the AEM FI/C and the BEGI FPR and get a stand alone, even at the boost you are at now. And get injectors. just the electronics/injectors/fuelpump. My stock fuel pump was garbage after 92xxx miles when I bought my car. coolant reroute if you're feeling ambitious usual stuff...typical tune up things, timing belt, run good oil, etc. get rid of the aem and begi stuff, learn to tune a megasquirt or another standalone. If you must keep bandaids for emissions or whatnot, then you're more screwed you should have bought an OEB1 car. I'll be looking into the coolant reroute thing, but right now it isn't at the top of my list. I believe the timing belt and water pump were replaced ~100k. What type of oil do you guys recommend to run? Right now he's been running Royal Purple through it consistently at every 3k. And I don't have to worry about emissions, so that's a good thing! |
OBX exhaust is 60mm (like 2-3/8"), decent but bigger would be better. I did love how it sounded though. I had a Magnaflow "high flow" cat on it that I replaced in a pinch but it's the tiny stock size so a bigger cat would definitely help if it's still on there.
I installed a Walbro 190HP fuel pump in the car. I ran Royal Purple 10W-30 while I had it. |
Originally Posted by SamS
(Post 636501)
OBX exhaust is 60mm (like 2-3/8"), decent but bigger would be better. I did love how it sounded though. I had a Magnaflow "high flow" cat on it that I replaced in a pinch but it's the tiny stock size so a bigger cat would definitely help if it's still on there.
I installed a Walbro 190HP fuel pump in the car. I ran Royal Purple 10W-30 while I had it. And right now I am planning on keeping the OBX exhaust, unless I find a great deal on something bigger. I'm not quite sure what you mean when you say "a bigger cat would definitely help if it's still on there". I'm used to running no cats on my previous cars lol. |
There is a stock size cat on there, like 1-7/8" or something tiny, it's a bottleneck in the system. A 2.5" cat would help power and quicker spool, or just get a test pipe and deal with the check engine light.
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I think I'm going to try out a test pipe next summer. Hopefully it isn't too loud. I'll probably space the O2 sensor out too so it doesn't throw a code.
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