mine is stripped now as well, its a slippery slope :)

I've had the ACT 1.8l clutch and Racing Beat 8lb flywheel on mine for about three years now and would never go back to stock. The car shifts better and is far easier to rev match for quick down or up shifts. The first two years it was in the car was N/A and I could feel a difference in the way the car pulled. The clutch was a little ovekill but I knew it would have a turbo on it eventually and didn't want to replace the clutch again for that. I replaced mine because my stock clutch was on its way out. If yours is dying, replace it with something that will not need replacing once you add boost.

what's the point if I'm buying a clutch though? I only need to hold 225whp max...I done want to deal with drivetrain problems, and that will be enough power for me (I must resist the urge to up power).

Hustler, just making sure you know... you can use a 1.6 flywheel/clutch on 1.8 motor. The debate goes on and on, but the advantage to the 1.6 setup is that it's lighter than 1.8. If you're planning on a 1.8 motor upgrade in the future, just buy a new clutch for your 1.6, and then swap the clutch and flywheel over to your 1.8. I think that's what JC is trying to say. Do you already have a clutch for the 1.6 installed? For your power levels, the 1.6's are cheaper.

A lot of 1.8 guys (both NB cars and guys who do 1.8 swaps into NA's) use 1.6 clutch/flywheel combos because they're cheaper and lighter.
Here's a thread with a long post by yours truly: https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/sh...ghlight=clutch
And clutch holding power us usually measure in torque, not HP.

A 1.6 Spec stage 2 ($310 shipped) and your current 1.6 flywheel (shaved by 4lbs and resurfaced for about $80 somebody was saying) would seem to be the cheap ticket for you. Both of these are a direct swap into a 1.8 block.

What Sam said.

I plan on shaving my stock f/w.
$.02

Thank yolu samnavy. I don't know how much torque 1.8's typically make at 225whp, but I've driven a couple blown cars at 190-210whp level and was happy. Hell, even my sister's MSM is exciting at 160whp.

It sounds to me like a 1.6l spec 2 will suffice. Thank you for saving me cash, once again.

There's a Canadian clutch co. - CAP Clutch that I've used before. I ran a stage II (one step over stock) clutch/pp from them in my dohc BP powered protege. They were recommended by other Protege owners. I beat on that clutch pretty hard in a span of 3k miles and it never flinched. Of course that was only 120ftlbs. What made me buy was the price. At the time it was $180 delivered for the entire "kit" rated at over 200ftlbs. I've installed lots of different Miata clutches over the years and CAP's stuff doesn't look any different to me. - rob

I've got the SPEC Stage II 1.6 and am happy with it. It is rated to hold 239ft/lbs (at the crank). Pedal effort is near stock like, easy to slip and nice crisp engagement. The only downside is as the kevlar disk gets hot (repeated hard launches) the engagment gets a little soft and it slips a bit. My understanding is that is the nature of Kevlar disks.

should be ok for a road track though right?

I had a Spec Stage II and the kevlar was worn out at 5k (see pic). This was on a 1.6 with a m45 supercharger. I had the pressure plate tested and it rated at less than the RAM oe replacement. I never got any response from Spec regarding the premature wear, so I can't say any more than that. My local clutch builder did say that kevlar is not an ideal friction material for a clutch disk. He rebuilt the Spec disk using a copper/ceramic composite material. You'd be surprised how economical it is to actually have a clutch rebuilt. I got new material on the disk and a rebuilt pp with new springs and new mating surface for $300. And it's rated at 400 ftlbs.

I was all about just taking my clutch in for a rebuild on this miata, but after the last one "american brake and clutch" built I had second thoughts.

1500 miles with 340lb/ft:
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...90_30_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...90_31_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...90_33_full.jpg
I might just do the brass/ cork thing again, it worked well on my vw at a measly 262lb/ft.

ya, specs seem pretty sketchy for a lot of people. either people love them or hate them. i have a spec stage 3 with a stock friction disc, and mine seems to be holding up ok. i had a supercharged setup for a while, it handled it fine, and now im back to NA with the same clutch, and have been running a fidanza 8 pounder. the lightweight flywheel is awesome NA and forced, i recommend it either way.

I have the xtd stage 3, I think Im going to go full face next time, somthing that can hold more
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/XTD-S...QQcmdZViewItem

how does a ceramic clutch drive and wear? Is XTD a reputable brand?

I had an XTD stage III and it chewed the crap out of my flywheel. They increase holding capacity by using really aggressive material on the clutch disc, not by putting stronger springs in the pressure plate.

For the power levels you are looking at get a strong pressure plate like a ACT extreme and a stock composite disc, it will engage smooth and be easy on your drive train with a little more peddle effort but I think its rated for like 300 lb of torque.

The stocker can be lightened up to about 10lbs.Youi will want a Machine shop to do it.the replace able friction surfaces can be made at a good shop so that you can get 5 made and never have to worry about that again.T-1 steel will never wear out,but it will eat a soft clutch face quick.we make industrial clutches at my shop and the "grabber" is normally copper/kevlar.
-G-

Wow... Three years almost to the day.

http://media.giantbomb.com/uploads/0...ecro_super.jpg

Wow I didnt even notice the date, I thought it was a little wierd what Hustler was talking about but now it makes sence