Link = Chineese
 

Seriously, what genius programmed the MiataLink? I'd like to have a "talk" with him. :vash:

It's not bad to deal with if you're just following the programming directions (which are excellent!), but there's really no way to figure out many of its parameters on your own. That makes comprehending everything difficult, and forces you to continue to work with FM.

On the positive side, installation is super easy. The UPS man dropped off the package at 6.30 and I had the Link in by 9, including stopping for several phone calls a dinner break.


And now it seems my NB o2 took a shit, so off I go...

When I installed it there were a few things that got me tripped up, but I finally got it. I really haven't messed with it a whole lot. 1 problem you might have and I certainly do, is that it is very on/off switch at very low throttle. It sort of bucks, and I have yet to figure out what the hell to do to fix it. Sry, kinda got into a rant there, but if you have any issues let me know and maybe I can help.
-Michael-

I've read the tuning manual a bunch of times and it is very counter intuitive. I'm hoping that once I actually start tuning it it'll make sense.

Is the car running now Ben?

Ben just post your questions here (in this thread) since a few of us have been through it already. Once you get past understanding the architecture of the software then you'll be set to use it at will.

You need consider that FM (FM's contracted programmer) has seriously extended the capability of the ecu and that comes at the price of the interface IMO. BUT you will get past that eventually. I recommend downloading PLink and picking up a Palm M500, the serial link (mod it for the palm) and start off that way. The keypad sucks. The palm does as much for the LINK as FM's software. You'll have the ability to load various maps, datalog and read multiple data inputs at once.

Query away! - rob

the on/off switch thing is likely your idle or overrun MAP setting. The FMLink tuning manual covers how to tune it... something like your 2k+ rpm coasting MAP, minus a couple kPa.

the bucking is prob not enough fuel or too much advance in those zones.

Ray, the codewriter guy hangs out on the miatapower list. He has done a good job, but it is built on top of Link's initial effort, and quite frankly most people (me) don't want to futz with cold/hot start settings, inj. voltage corrections, things drifting out of tune between seasons etc. :P

Most common problems can be fixed by cruising the m.net or miatapower archives - a big plus when you're downunder, or working after hours! :)

Trust me, I have tried damn near everything with nothing positive happening. In fact I made a post over on M.net about it and it looks like I'm not the only one that this happens to.
-Michael-

Jay,

The installation is easy enough. What's tough about programming is that you have to reference zone numbers to actions. There's a list of zone numbers in the Tuning Manual's appendix which helps tons. What's super tough is the Link doesn't use intuitive values for anything. You have to look at the value given, then look it up in a chart to turn it into an intuitive value. IE AFR 14.7:1 = o2 77. WTF is 77? The units are meaningless.

Does the car run? Yes. Does it run *well*? No. The EMU was better.

Rob,
Thanks a lot. Here's my my first issue. I did the initial installation and set up per FM's instructions. I went through the procedure to begin the coarse tuning. The Link added fuel and added fuel. Everywhere, just added fuel. It added enough fuel to where my standalone wb was showing 9.5:1 and the car would misfire horribly. It runs better with the default map than it does with any autotuning applied. So I turned to the Injector DC/o2 screen, and saw that the o2 value was parked at 75, which I cross refrenced to something like .07V output from the NB o2. I assumed this was a faulty o2 sensor, so I replaced it, but there was no improvement. So I replaced the wire between the o2 sensor and ECU. No improvement. So I did voltage and continutity checks on the o2 sensor wire at the harness. I had voltage at the harness. Then I opened the ECU case and followed the copper traces out of the nb o2 input pin. I have nb sensor voltage at the ECU, but the keypad always shows o2=75. It's never moved from 75 ever. So that explains why coarse tuning wants to dump fuel; it thought that the car was running super lean. It turns out that there are 2 inputs for o2 sensors, 1 for nb & 1 for wb. In stock form, they are connected. Indeed I had continuity between those 2 pins.

I'm thinking that there's a defect in my ecu, but I'm open to any suggestions.

Ben

First of what O2 sensor are you running?

The Link is preprogramed for the AEM. If you are using a different sensor the values have to be changed.

No bro... Narrowband for coarse tuning in vacuum. The nb sensor was replaced yesterday.

I did not do the wideband modification, and I tested the Link board to make sure that there was continuity between the nb and wb pins.

I have tested for nb o2 voltage at the Link by opening the ecu cover and probing the correct trace. The Link keypad always showed o2 = 75, despite the fact that the sensor was varying its voltage output (I know this because I had a DMM on it!). The keypad also showed o2 = 75 when I unplugged the o2 sensor at the connector at the firewall.

o2 = 75 referenced to something like .07V.

IMO the simplest process to tune is to load the default map then go out and make a nice long run trying to cover as many zones as possible while datalogging. Then come back and review the log in DLL (free trial version for download). Make the necessary adjustments to the map on the palm, then upload that map to the LINK. And repeat the process.

Autotuning was just too slow of a process for me. Doing the manual tuning allowed me to get to the point of manual fine tuning quickly. I've done less than 10 datalogs and have most of my WOT tuning on AF target based on WB output. That's from somebody who was learning how to do this during the process.

Does sound like something is funky with NBo2. Miatapower and emailing Jeremy at FM are the best ways to get input on your findings. It's how I came to the conclusion that my Link had a bad component for the boost control. Though your problem will be a bigger issue since that input is vital for day-to-day tuning tweaks. If you do the above manual tuning, you could move on to the WB and see if that works. -rob

Thanks Rob.

Working autotune in all ranges is one of the reasons why I went with the Link. :td: I don't have a Palm, but have no problem picking one up, assuming that the Link starts acknowledging o2 sensor input...

I'll get with Jeremy tomorrow (Monday) and see what help he can offer. How do I get on the power list?

Rob-i have a few questions for you.(since you where so helpful in the past)
i emailed fm saying i was running rich at 6lbs of boost and i was using the stock 440 default with the ''100 points'' of fuel.and wanted to know what i should set the master fuel at for 6,12psi of boost.they told me to get a wideband and tune the zones.

but i remember you telling someone to raise the master fuel becuase tey had 330cc injectors.

well anyway i thought the master fuel set you to a rough point of where you want your fuel for pounds of boost.can you give a defualt master fuel points for 6,10,12,psi thanks mike.

master fuel has no relationship to where your boost control is set.

The default map was built around 440 cc/min injectors. So if your injectors are a bit larger or smaller than 440, you adjust the master fuel accordingly. For instance, I'm running 550s, 440/550=.8 so my master fuel is set at 80, which means that the Link reduces its Injector Duty Cycle to 80% of the defaults programmed.

Master fuel controls an overall parameter, where you need to trim fuel in certain zones only. IE if you are running perfectly at all points except MAP 6 psi over atmo and 5500 RPM, you need to trim fuel only in that corresponding zone.

ok,i sort of understand.i have 440cc injectors.so i should set the master fuel to 80,or the default 100 points.

then you would want your master fuel at 100 440/440=1=100%

you trim fuel at the appropriate zones

should i just fuck it,and turn the bost to 12lbs.im really contemplating this because i have 440,gt2560,intercooler.and thats similar to a fm kit.plus ill be using 93 octane fm uses what 91.
arent the stock defaults for 12psi

i think ill order the laptop conector from fm today

Keep an eye on the Wideband and if it leans out, then let off.
-Michael-

yea i know.i must get a wideband.right now im using a autometer,narowband flashylight.

DLL is FREE:

Set your date (laptop) to 2050, instal dll, set date back to 2007.

Can you check zones z 26 -z31 for me. (lambda targets)
Those numbers (NB) should be:

z26 : 76
z27 : 77
z28 : 80
z29 : 88
z30 : 90
z31 : 91

http://www.flyinmiata.com/support/O2_targets.php

IMO running the car at your target boost and tuning for that first is the way to go. That'll get you where you want to be quicker, then you can worry about tuning other areas later based on what you've arrived at elsewhere. \

Given the price of WBo2s now, it just doesn't make sense not to have one given the investment in the rest of a turbo set up. It's no different than going to the dyno and trying to tune without a WB. And if you install one, you're tune will be that much better when you do go to the dyno for any fine tuning.

I picked up my palm m500 on ebay two years ago for $25 delivered. I like it for the portability. I've got one of those handheld suction cup holders stuck to the windshield so I can see everything that's going on in "monitor" mode while driving. Just ran the serial link cable under the gauge pod above the steering column, then behind the center console and into the glove box.

Datalogging is the key for tuning on the street. It removes the task of trying to tune real time. Logging lets you pay attention to the vitals instead. - rob

Well it's been tentatively determined that my Link is faulty, pending a diagnostics on FM's test bench. Jeremy @ FM thinks that if it were a real issue with my o2 sensor, then the Link should have displayed o2 = 0 when I unplugged the sensor. Instead, it displayed o2 = 75 despite the presence of varying voltage output from the sensor, and didn't change with the lack of a sensor either.

Supposedly they are going to call me with a RMA number...

It's 70 & sunny again, and my car is still not drivable. But at least I took the hardtop off, and it's sitting pretty with the softtop back and boot on.

I still have a gaping trench in my driveway, waiting for the 12 feet of soft clay to settle so we can poor concrete... so a feel a little of your pain.

I agree- if the link isn't showing a change when a lead is removed/installed then something must be funky with the ecu. Same thing with my boost control- I used an LED with a resistor to test for boost control signal (ground) with 12v on the LED and never got a thing. One day I'll get it repaired- no warranty here, so I'll have to do it myself OR higher a pro if it's beyond my capability.

well then we should put our powers together :cool:
How about a parallel ecu installation, yours running fuel and mine running boost control? That's of course assuming mine has functional boost control; I never did try it as I didn't get fueling sorted.

Why was your driveway trenched?

Oh, and FM has a complete list of zone functions on their website. It's actually not too difficult to deal with at all, just not as friendly of an interface as the emange piggy I had previously.

My 82 year old clay sewer pipe collapsed and just happened to run the length of my driveway to the city sewer main under the street. So 40 ft. out and 12 ft. down. Don't wan't to pour the concrete until the Georgia clay has had a chance to settle.

You just need a few more "dates" with your Link. Once you get to know her you'll understand her better. She really does want to please you. ;)

link & 550s are out. original ecu and 205s are in. car runs and cruises in closed loop. i'm about to take the link board to ups.btw, posted from my treo. tnx philip.

Ben, is your Link one of the ones FM found in a box?

Why I am asking is that I ordered my Link when they where out of stock in Dec. and then they found a box of them in their whse and shipped them out in Jan.

Just want to know if I will be going through the same problems later this month when I install it (hoping it is not a bad batch).

To my knowledge, NO. Didn't hear even a whisper about that. FWIW, I could drive the car. The Link would do everything except go into closed loop. When I got the factory ECU, injectors, and AFM back in, the car would run closed loop just fine.

They must have very poor inventory management in Colorado.

:inout: I think Link is New Zealander, not Chinese.

Update:

In case you cared.
The board was put on the test rig at FM. The results were all the same:
Under all conditions and situations, the Link reported o2 sensor input voltage at a constant .07 Volts.

They'll have another board for me in a week.

so you're not crazy! damn, whodda thunk it?! :yippee:

Glad they found the problem.

Regardless of what some people say FM is not that bad.

(We just think that they are not GODS here)

update
 

Just found out from FM that the 1.6 Link is out of production. So I'm back to square one.

If there is anything positive out of this, at least I didn't pay the $100 for a DLL license.

whoa, they stopped the 1.6 link? I guess I'm going with Xede.

Yeah, Link has the new G3 though, though they never got back with me concerning their test monkey offer they had....

Maybe there's some interest in a group buy? They're priced pretty cheap with the gb.

what's the g3 about?

$1170 shipped, including PNP module, and base map
GB:
10% discount for 5
20% discount for 10
Does not include AIT Sensor ($50)
Does include MAP and barometric sensors

http://www.linkecu.com/products/engi...specifications

Wow, looks like I got one of the last one's. Hope mine isn't fucked :(

Jeremy said that Link has 5 more in production, and then that's it.

I'm (supposedly) getting an RMA for the items I still have (keypad, AIT sensor, etc) and a refund, but that's what they said last week too...

Glad I got my Link a few months ago.

I felt the Link was coming to an end when they introduced the Hyrda.

Yes the Hyrda cost more but not by much as it includes a WO2 in the price.

Didn't you just buy a car with a link in it?