which lug nuts to use on my Nickel 6UL's?
I know it's a bit of a retarded question, but any suggestions on what I should use for lug nuts when the wheels eventually get here?
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949 lugs. Light, long so you'll never strip one, and open-ended so you can run long studs.
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Alternatively, I've been use McGard Spline Drive nuts without a hitch. They won't damage the wheel when torqued, and where I live, with snow and salt I won''t get rusted studs because they're not open ended.
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+1 for the 949racing.com lugs
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I've been using the McGards and like them. Lugshack had the best price when I was looking.
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FM lugs. I've seen 2 cars with 949 lugs that don't hold torque throughout the day. Maybe it was a bad batch, but they're not readily available either.
Hopefully my wheels show up soon enough for TDR@MSR. |
FM lugs are pricey, but they are light and they work. Been using mine for 2 years with zero issues.
Ebay made the purchase cheap and simple. |
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 404095)
FM lugs. I've seen 2 cars with 949 lugs that don't hold torque throughout the day. Maybe it was a bad batch, but they're not readily available either.
Hopefully my wheels show up soon enough for TDR@MSR. |
I also use the McGard SplineDrive lug nuts on my 6ULs. So far, no probs.
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Gorilla small diameter, splined. They fit and I can find spare "keys" at pepboys or sears.
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 404095)
FM lugs. I've seen 2 cars with 949 lugs that don't hold torque throughout the day. Maybe it was a bad batch, but they're not readily available either.
Hopefully my wheels show up soon enough for TDR@MSR. |
I will also be running a locking lug on each wheel, so want then to somewhat match. And should I go with "chrome" or black lugs?
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Locknuts are worthless, even I can get one off in 10 seconds and I'm not a pro thief, I just worked as a tire tech for a couple years. Might as well forget about locks and just run a lugnut with a non-hexagonal pattern if you're worried about security.
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I love my mcgard two piece spline drives.
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 404156)
24 track days, I've never had a 949lug loosen up. I like to think I'm harder on my equipment than most HPDE guys. Tighten to 60ft.lbs via impact gun in the air, drop the car on the ground, torque to 80ft.lbs, drive 10 miles (or 1 session), retorque. They take a little torque the second time and then hold.
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Originally Posted by kotomile
(Post 404167)
Locknuts are worthless, even I can get one off in 10 seconds and I'm not a pro thief, I just worked as a tire tech for a couple years. Might as well forget about locks and just run a lugnut with a non-hexagonal pattern if you're worried about security.
Originally Posted by zoomin
(Post 404157)
And should I go with "chrome" or black lugs?
A) Make up your own mind. B) Go ask at m.net. C) Just get rainbow ones. :giggle::fawk: |
I'll be the gay. I have like my nuts black. If you wanted to get locks I believe the McGards are weight matched to their spline lugs.
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 404095)
FM lugs. I've seen 2 cars with 949 lugs that don't hold torque throughout the day.
Anyway, it's standard procedure to retorque wheels after every track session anyway. Many HPDE groups (SV invcluded) recommend that in their track prep instruction for newbs. That's regardless of lug or wheel material. I would never run a whole day with retorquing, ever. |
Originally Posted by emilio700
(Post 406633)
On new wheels, mine, like all alloy lugs, need to be retorqued once. For street use, that's enpough until the tire are worn out. I have probably over a hundred track days, several races and an enduro using them. Never an issue. I torque to 80 ft-lbs BTW
Anyway, it's standard procedure to retorque wheels after every track session anyway. Many HPDE groups (SV invcluded) recommend that in their track prep instruction for newbs. That's regardless of lug or wheel material. I would never run a whole day with retorquing, ever. |
kics 2 piece. R40's.
I have them and they are awesome, not very cheap though. |
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