bryantaylor

iTrader: (5)

i figured we might be able to get some good info to add to the FAQ that isnt covered too much.

what are some keys for running higher boost/power (250whp+ ish)?

we all have read on here the stock motor will hold about 250wheel as long as your tune is decent, but not much more is really talked about.

for example, when do you need to upgrade your coils? or go to a COP or aftermarket system? spark plug gap? (.25-.30 seem to be most popular) when is it a must to run a duel feed fuel rail? when/if ever do we need to upgrade our fuel lines? what are the first internal parts to be upgraded? what power level are the stock pistons/rods/crank/rings etc good up too? and so on.

Zabac

iTrader: (39)

there are plenty people running around 300 on stock internals, everything you do at that point is for safety really.
Once you start pushing over that is when you really need to upgrade things.
Dual feed is a must to richen up #4 cyl.
Ignition is always good to upgrade since stock blows *****, so that's neither here nor there.
Guts wise, rings are the known weak link and then rods. We all know about the OP gears, too. Other than that, all other block work is really for more power.
Any head work is really for more power due to better flow, and as far as valvetrain goes thats for higher revvs, also for more power, not a must.

The big thing, for big power, you kind of have to do it all at once, not like lower power set ups where you upgrade as you go.

paul

iTrader: (21)

I heard underdrive pulleys can be bad but that might just be a rumor.


better cooling via a higher capacity radiator and a corrective coolant reroute.

bryantaylor

iTrader: (5)

this looks like the begining of a really usefull thread.

J.T.

X2 subscribed for sure

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

I would say to you will want your cooling system right. Go ahead and do that so it's proficient. Our motors lack in this area and keeping heat in check is important.

Some will say you need to upgrade your ignition for higher HP, but I think that's not necessary. Run .020 gap and you'll be fine. It's only a problem if it doesn't spark. Some speculate their's 2 hp and smoother idle to be had, but IMO it's not a must by any means to make big HP.

I would recommend running 20-40 or 20-50 weight synthetic oil for a FI motor.

Also, many will tell you the rods are weak, but I never see people bend rods. I believe they're fine to 400whp if you keep your RPMs at 7K or below. It's high RPMs that kill rods, not torque.

Basically detonation is what kills 99% of miata engines at high HP levels. It's not that making 350whp pretzels your rods and punches the ring landings off the pistons from the marginally increased cylinder pressures. Double your HP and cylinder pressures go up 30%. Detonate and they go up 1000%. Which do you think breaks your ****?

I'm planing to make 300-350whp on my stock motor this summer. I'll be watching this thread for sure.

bryantaylor

iTrader: (5)

while we are on the oil thing. deisel oil like shell rotella is GREAT stuff. its bacisally made for turbos, and has high detergent to keep your motor clean.

J.T.

I personally think 20-50 is a bit wide of a viscosity range for a turbo oil. 5w-30 is ok, 10w-30 is better. If you can do it where you live I would say a straight 30w or 50w would be best. Just the way I've been taught.

PS: Corky agrees a straight viscosity oil is best, and thats plenty enough proof for me

johndoe

iTrader: (5)

what about something like M1 0w40 which is the factory fill for turbo Porches I think?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

10w-40 would be better than 0w-40, the least distance from the cold to warm rating is best. Straight 40 weight oil is straight 40 weight oil, no additives to make it work good in cold weather.

the key with high HP motors is dealing with heat and creating better efficiency.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

For what it's worth, I found that my lifters really like Mobil1 0w40. I run it year round, and while it does tend to come out a bit blackish, the engine hasn't complained so far.

bryantaylor

iTrader: (5)

good info so far. looks like i will up the boost with no worries execpt for when my rear-end will explode. i have a dual feed rail, just did a coolant re-route, lowered the plug gap to .28ish.

johndoe

iTrader: (5)

you of all people should know that without at least one pcpro that's a ticking time bomb...oh wait

bryantaylor

iTrader: (5)

i have a pcpro on the valve cover just to let the motor know who is boss.

bryantaylor

iTrader: (5)

i just want to say that a 1.6 with a t3/t4 rides the **** out at 15-16psi!!!!!

The_Pipefather

iTrader: (5)

Amen to that. I used to run it in my motorcycle, and now in the Miata and the VR6. Can't say there's a better oil available, although that's as subjective as it gets.

cueball1

iTrader: (13)

It appears knock is the biggest fear factor leading to engine destruction. What are the primary causes of and best ways to prevent knock?!?

deliverator

iTrader: (14)

For oil advice in general, go here and read/search: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

Based on what I've learned there, I've been happily running german castrol 0w30 in my WRXs for years and I'll be running it in the project Miata once I do the timing belt & tranny swap.

johndoe

iTrader: (5)

that's what lead me to think that M1 0w40 might be good to try.

paul

iTrader: (21)

i think:

• timing too advanced - get better timing control, retard timing
• air intake temps too high - 1. Get more efficient intercooler - bigger and/or provide it with more air from the front of the car. 2. bigger turbo
• not enough fuel - bigger injectors, more fuel pressure, and/or better fuel control controller