Originally Posted by mmmjesse (Post 1401530)

wow, thats a new one on me. thats fucking awful. I dont think the PPF can be out of alignment enough to cause that. that is an odd one for sure.

Originally Posted by 18psi (Post 1401558)

I was just about to post: "align the ppf properly"

....looks like you're about to learn the hard way tho.

whoever hacked those engine mounts needs to be taken out back and beaten

Originally Posted by ridethecliche (Post 1401584)

Err, I would go through things with a fine tooth comb and look at where else you can find evidence of the previous owners handiwork!

Originally Posted by EO2K (Post 1401622)

If its OEM its technically "non serviceable" and "lubricated for life" so unless someone tried to take it apart, it "shouldn't" require service. A driveshaft shop or someone with the correct tools can press out the u joints, but its probably not worth the cost just to have it re-greased.

However, I'm sure someone will come in here shortly and contradict my statement ;)

Originally Posted by ANONYMOUS_HAM (Post 1401632)

Yeah. The guy I got it from had the trans serviced. But I was also thinking throwout and pilot bearings. Do you have to have specific tools for those?

Originally Posted by EO2K (Post 1401657)

^^ Yep. I believe the last time we did a pilot I beat the old one out with a hammer and a socket, and installed the new one with a bolt, some washers, a nut and a couple pieces of flat stock with holes drilled in them. Hammer and socket bearing install makes my skin crawl. Vice should be OK though, if you have one that's big enough. I'm always nervous about installing relatively delicate things like bearings with anything that does not apply direct, even force. I really need to get access to a press. :facepalm:



There isn't much to service on a 5 speed without stripping it down, other than the throwout bearing, fork, pivot, rubber fork boot, hydraulic slave cylinder, main seals, shifter bushings and shifter seal. These are not necessarily high wear items so just confirming they aren't shot and maybe a little lube is about all the attention they need. You'll have to replace the fluid, but that shouldn't be a big deal. A quick search here on MT should give you some good ideas as to what fluids work well for various applications.

How far did you get on confirming that all the PPF bolts are present and accounted for? If you are not 100% on that stuff, please let us know and we'll do what we can to help. I'd be super paranoid about the mechanical condition of the car after seeing some of those pics you posted :sad2:

Originally Posted by DNMakinson (Post 1401708)

I assume (recall) that you are putting a clutch in at this time. If so, you should have the flywheel faced. The shop will / can press the pilot bearing for you no extra charge. What clutch are you going with?

Originally Posted by ANONYMOUS_HAM (Post 1401731)

No idea why my previous post isn't showing for me. But from what I can tell there are 5 bolts total in the PPF, and I have 4, 2 to the trans and 2 to the diff. With one missing by the tailshaft of the trans. Also I am thinking about the oem exedy on amazon. Which is cheap with great reviews. Also, is there any compatibility issues with the 01 transmission on my 94?

Originally Posted by ridethecliche (Post 1401749)

Are you still planning on installing the turbo etc when you're done with all this?

Stock will likely start slipping if you do.

Originally Posted by EO2K (Post 1401792)

FWIW I really like my FM1 clutch. Its not insanely expensive, has a fabulous reputation, is easy to modulate, has no bad habits (other than being slightly heavier pedal feel than stock) and mine has been holding 300hp/300ft-lbs for I think a couple years now. Granted im not daily driving the thing, but it's actually much nicer and more capable than the clutch in my Subaru DD.

If you are doing a clutch, no reason not to do something like the the FM1 now. Tbe Exedy is a good clutch, I had one I I the past, but you will just end up spending the money again later when you need to upgrade for boost.

https://www.flyinmiata.com/fm-level-1-clutch.html

Originally Posted by shuiend (Post 1401794)

Clutch wise you either use the VPM Clutch from Priorty Mazda if staying non-boosted, or just goto FM1/949/ACT clutch if planning on boosting.

Originally Posted by ANONYMOUS_HAM (Post 1401803)

Thanks for the amazing information. I might just go with a VPM, I won't be boosting for at least a year to a year an a half. And I'll have a better daily then so that it can be my fun car, and I can afford to have it down longer to do the clutch and everything.