MSM Towing Capacity?
 

Hey guys... ive been looking around to find information on towing with the MSM? What the capabilities are and how far I can stretch with it. Im looking to upgrade the rotors to vented/sloted, I don't think i'll have to worry too much with the transmission, I have only about 200 im putting down... I do have a 37mm Koyo Radiator as well for extra cooling...

When should I start worrying about towing too much? Im looking at maybe at most 1200 lb trailer... Im moving... its a one-time thing and its way cheaper to get the hitch and all and move for 500$ vs at the least 1100 for an oversized 10ft truck for what I need.

840 miles from Houston, TX to just north of Atlanta, GA

I've seen some posts in the history going back to 2009.... didnt get a clear answer from it. Running around 10psi.

Paging Landrew!

But I wouldn't advise trying to tow 1200lb. The manual states 900lb towing capacity, and the 8lb FM hitch setup is rated for 1000.

If the NA Miata holds a 900lb towing level... I think the Mazdaspeed Miata NB would be in range of towing 1200... Mind you 1200 is above my estimated level of tow. 850lb 4x8 trailer (uhaul) with the heaviest things being my tools that I have for maintenancing, clothes, fullsize custom computer I have built, then other Misc. stuff. I cant imagine it actually going over 1050lbs but I put 1200 up just on a safer bearing.

Looking at getting Power Stop sloted/drilled rotors with Z26 pads to assist with braking. Atleast on the front, considering rears as well for the extra stopping power. Engine imo can handle it... using a bit of engine to slow along with the extra brake power over stock... For a one-time trip mostly highway about 60 mph.

How about some good rotors, instead?

Yeah, the vented/slotted rotors aren't necessary. I'm not sure it's the levelness of the trailer or the cooling capacity you should be worried about. I'd be more worried about the clutch personally.

These are fairly fragile cars. After working on a few now, I'm going to automatically double the mileage in my head when considering wear and tear.

U-haul has the heaviest trailers in the world. Try to find a lighter alternative.

U-hall has ALWAYS asked me what was pulling their trailer when I wanted to rent one.

I highly doubt they'll rent you a trailer when / if they find out you're pulling it with a Miata.

They have those things that look like the SUV clamshell hot-dog type deals that sit on top of the truck, but on wheels.

They rent those to Miata drivers.

I doubt it would be enough space to move with unless you were a bachelor moving out of a 1 bedroom apartment, but those are a thing.

It will tow it just fine. Now if you get in an accident and they scale your load you will be royally fucked.

What they said. They WILL ask you what you're towing it with. If they don't think it's a good idea, they won't rent it to you.

Just means you need to pick it up with a friends car :)

Tow ratings are not about the power or braking ability of the tow vehicle, it's mostly predicated on the weight of the tow vehicle.

I introduce as evidence the tow rating for Mazda CX-5 which is the same for 2L and 2.5 variants and the Subaru Outback which is the same for 2.5 and 3.6 variants.

In Canada the manual for the NB states towing is not recommended with this vehicle. We all tow stuff - me included - but 'm not sure I'd tow something that weighs half as much as my tow vehicle unless it had electric or overrun brakes.

You got the same answers over on ms.com. It's a bad idea. But you seem set on it regardless so I hope you make it.

He got the same answers in two identical threads on M.net as well.

I have towed close to 1200 lbs with my 97. Just around town though (<5miles). I would be scared at interstate speeds. You would need a really balanced trailer with just enough tounge weight. The miata rear suspension cannot handle that much tongue weight without bottoming out on the bumpstops. I would advise against towing that much for that far. Also, tools weigh alot more than you think. My craftsman tool box and a uhaul trailer will easily exceed 1200lbs!

I am not just a nay-sayer. I towed over 3000lb (confirmed on scales) with my 01 Jetta 1.8t from Kentucky to SC (8hrs). That is just under the weight of the Jetta. Granted it was loaded with propably 1000lb of crap on this trip. This was no fun. Mountains on I-24/75 between TN and GA was crazy. I will never do it again.

The first time I loaded my 12ft trailer I had way to much tongue weight. It made the front so light that the car would start swaying when I got on the interstate and went above 60mph. I had no contol. Had to turn around and re-pack the trailer. With the trailer tongue weight under control I could make it. It sucked getting stuck in Atlanta Friday afternoon traffic with all that trailer behind me.

Back to the shocks. My brakes and cooling survived, but I am pretty sure I blew my rear shocks on this trip.

DON'T DO IT

Here's a great alternative.

Rent a truck with a car trailer or tow dolly.

Load your crap into the truck. Load your MSM onto the car trailer/dolly.
Move with confidence. And, as Leafy pointed out, in a way that won't leave you wide open with regards to worst-case scenarios.

It may cost a little more, but it'll still be cheaper than paying a moving company to move your stuff for you.

I wouldn't go over 1,000#s with the Miata. I'd say get a service trailer from harbor freight and make a low-weight plywood and 2x4 trailer. Just make sure it's reinforced properly and strong. Those trailers are substantially lighter, take the below one for example, 250 pounds. Bonus, it's foldable. Add some plywood and 2x4s (weigh it before you assemble) and you could probably keep weight under 350, leaving you 650#s for cargo. That's my plan at least...

http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...els-90154.html

Make two trips.

Or put the tools in the passenger area of the Miata and the lighter weight stuff in a trailer. It's much more stable with the heavier weight in the car than in the trailer.

I checked, roughly from Texas to Atlanta I got quoted from UHaul for a 10ft moving truck you're looking at a little over $600. Then either add tow for your car or just drive it alongside. I'd rather spend that money then $300 in brakes and $250-$300 for a tow hitch and the possibility of dying or screwing up your car. You said so yourself it's a one time thing. That's just the cost of moving.

Plus, if you're moving for a new job, your moving expenses are usually tax deductible.

Not always easy to swallow the out of pocket moving costs when starting up a new job, but they will help reduce your taxable income at the end of the year.