General Miata Chat A place to talk about anything Miata

SuperMiata 36-1 wheel

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 08-19-2013, 12:55 AM
  #1  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Der_Idiot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Saint Paul, MN
Posts: 1,489
Total Cats: 28
Default SuperMiata 36-1 wheel

Hey guys, can I just cut a tooth off of the SuperMiata 36-1 wheel to make it a 36-2 wheel? Unfortunately only a 36-2 timing wheel will work with Hydra 2.7 at this point and I don't want to undo all of my wiring work I did today to revert to CAS only operation.
Der_Idiot is offline  
Old 08-19-2013, 09:29 AM
  #2  
Elite Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Leafy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: NH
Posts: 9,479
Total Cats: 104
Default

Maybe. Whats the pattern on the FM 36-2 wheel?
Leafy is offline  
Old 08-19-2013, 10:14 AM
  #3  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Der_Idiot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Saint Paul, MN
Posts: 1,489
Total Cats: 28
Default

As far as I can tell, it has one less tooth (IE, two teeth missing next to one another) instead of just one.
Der_Idiot is offline  
Old 08-19-2013, 02:57 PM
  #4  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Der_Idiot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Saint Paul, MN
Posts: 1,489
Total Cats: 28
Default

I spoke with both Emilio and Jeremy today and got clarification; sounds like I should be able to remove a tooth on either side of the missing tooth and adjust timing reference angle accordingly.
Der_Idiot is offline  
Old 08-19-2013, 11:25 PM
  #5  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Der_Idiot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Saint Paul, MN
Posts: 1,489
Total Cats: 28
Default

Managed to remove the tooth clockwise of the original missing tooth. I ended up using a 1" or so wheel and an air grinder to score the tooth and break it off with a pliers. Worked a lot better than I thought it would. The idle is AMAZING now, MUCH smoother than before. I might actually be able to cut fuel to a reasonable level now.
Der_Idiot is offline  
Old 08-20-2013, 11:21 AM
  #6  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Der_Idiot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Saint Paul, MN
Posts: 1,489
Total Cats: 28
Default

When setting timing I should use the mark to the left when looking at the front of the balancer, right? The two notches should be at 10* and TDC if I recall correctly. I might be imagining it, but it feels like I lost power after this changeover.

Could I have damaged something by idling for about 5-10 minutes total over 2 days with the idle being adjusted from 25* retarded to TDC and finally 10* btdc? AFR was at least 14:1 during this entire process and it was all idle, no driving. I'm going to check my plugs as they may have fouled or something and check compression as well when I get home.

Edit; Vacuum is reading low (12-14in compared to previously 17-19), though that may be because I adjusted idle speed. I'll adjust it back up and find out later.

Last edited by Der_Idiot; 08-20-2013 at 03:16 PM.
Der_Idiot is offline  
Old 08-21-2013, 11:15 AM
  #7  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Der_Idiot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Saint Paul, MN
Posts: 1,489
Total Cats: 28
Default

Figured it out; reverting a setting on the ECU for a fueling map also reverted the timing setting retarding it to 2* btdc. Not exactly something very intelligent of a design, though this ECU is rather backwards in a lot of ways.
Der_Idiot is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Full_Tilt_Boogie
Build Threads
84
04-12-2021 04:21 PM
StratoBlue1109
Miata parts for sale/trade
21
09-30-2018 01:09 PM
emilio700
Wheels and Tires
151
06-02-2017 02:36 PM
mx592
Suspension, Brakes, Drivetrain
1
10-01-2015 12:45 AM



Quick Reply: SuperMiata 36-1 wheel



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:45 AM.