Dow.tom

iTrader: (3)

Okay I finally got around to grabbing the camera and updating.

What has happened since i first bought the car:
I replaced the ugly tan top with a new black one, and i have removed my spoiler. I am now prepping for a DIY paint job with a Spray gun... waiting on Harbor Freight..

Also, I need to sand down the bondo, what grit would you suggest to sand it down to, before i use 400 to level it all out?
Here's the link:

http://s93.photobucket.com/albums/l52/dow-tom/My%20Mx5/

leave comments and suggestions please.

reddroptop

iTrader: (4)

The black around the tan seats looks good and original. Never seen that before.

y8s

iTrader: (8)

that looks like 220 would work well. I wouldn't go too coarse because of collateral damage. Also, get a decent sanding block so you know when you're *there*. eastwood has some small ones with removable rods that I like.
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT (9")

they sell the PSA backed paper too.

Dow.tom

iTrader: (3)

i planned to use sanding foam. 220 would work, okay i'll pick it up tomorrow and use it.

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

tell you what tom be carefull with the 220 just knock it fairly even with that and then use 400 to get it smooth. overall it doesn't seem like alot of work though from there i would try some 800, and then if it doesn't look and feel smooth enough for your tastes the paint will definetly show it you will end up with 1000 grit before it is all said and done and maybe another gloss caot of primer to smooth it all out but the result will speak for it self And definetly get a sanding block it makes everything alot more even in the end. GL man.

Dow.tom

iTrader: (3)

So rich,
Provided it get it smooth with 220, than 400 to get it closer and finally 800/1000 to get it level with the trunk *should* it come out nice? Also, anyone know of a way to remove the 3m take holding the MX5 sticker. I got it mostly off but can't get the last bit off.

Dow.tom

iTrader: (3)

Also, wont a block leave flat spots. Philip recommended sanding foam as it contours to the trunk/ surface.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

You can get stuff called "goo be gone" to take the residual sticky off without hurting the paint below it.

y8s

iTrader: (8)

those sanding blocks are pretty flexible; made of foam.

You're not gonna get any "leveling with the trunk" with 800/1000. Really you can paint over 400 with decent results so consider 800 only to smooth out the texture from the 400 before painting. anything above 800 really is an after-paint surface conditioner.

matt

Dow.tom

iTrader: (3)

Day 2, i sanded down. Quick question. Will i ahve to sand it all down and primer than paint? Or can i simply paint over?

http://s93.photobucket.com/albums/l52/dow-tom/My%20Mx5/

Pics at the top are new

y8s

iTrader: (8)

I'd at least prime and blend in the bondo areas. use a non-red primer and you'll see if you have any gaps you missed.

Dow.tom

iTrader: (3)

what colour primer do you suggest? Gray?

Dow.tom

iTrader: (3)

suppose the lines show up, what is the method to remove them? Sand reprime sand and reprime until they are gone?

y8s

iTrader: (8)

gray will work.

you probably wont have an issue. when they show up, it just means they're filled with primer. if they dont show up, no big.

Dow.tom

iTrader: (3)

trunk and rear center section now primered. I have the bumper and the hood to primer than comes the Classic Red paint. Will post pictures tomorrow.

Tremiata

iTrader: (1)

What kind of paint are you using?? Base/Clear? Classic Red (all reds) are expensive. I will be using omni which is a lower line ppg you can get from carpaintonline.com for $104 per gallon. Shouldnt need that much but it will be good to have. Their shipping prices arent bad either, my complete order to paint both miatas will ship for $40.

Dow.tom

iTrader: (3)

i'm using a single stage, as i was told all the classic reds were single stage. IT is a lower line from Dupont, and cost 30ish for a pint.

Dow.tom

iTrader: (3)

http://s93.photobucket.com/albums/l52/dow-tom/My%20Mx5/

Updated, trunk and center panel are primered. Check em out, let me know how you like.

Dow.tom

iTrader: (3)

no comments on my workmanship haha?

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

it should work out just fine your eyes are hard pressed to find imperfections your hand will surely be able to tell as you run it across the peice. still it looks good