NA Miata questions, also anyone look at this Miata
5 Attachment(s)
Hello,
As stated before, I am in the market for an NA Miata, that will ultimately be boosted. However, I am having issues finding the "right" car, and wanted some of your opinions on which of the following paths makes more sense to follow:
What do you guys think? Lastly, there is a Miata I found on CL for sale, but its not local. According to the seller, he bought it turboed from the PO. He claims to not know much about turbos and/or cars in general. I have talked to him through email, and the car needs some definate TLC, but I noticed no major rust (there is some on the trunk lid, but whatever, that's easy). I have attached a few pictures because I cannot for the life of me figure out what turbo components he used, and was hoping some more Miata-knowledgable people could point some things out...what do you think? It looks like a DIY IC setup, knock-off Blitz BOV, but I can't really tell what's up with the manifold... |
Originally Posted by BradC
(Post 275202)
Hello,
Consider the two options above my picks, depending on what you want. Mileage is not ultimately a deciding factor, but you need to decide if you want a good looking miata or a track slut. More often then not, there is too many skeletons in the closet. I would look for a good bodied 1.8 OBD-I (94/95) or if its a track slut, any 1.6 with boost will do. Keep in mind, the 1.8 brakes and rear will need to be swapped into your 1.6. I would NOT buy a previously boosted car. Edit: The car above sounds like a crudely put together hunk of shit. |
yeah, that car sounds like a shitbox.
Go with whatever is cheaper after the torsen swap, the 1.8 or 1.6. The 1.8 has better brakes and TPS. The rest comes out in a wash. If I could do it all over again, I'd stay with the 1.6 because the swap has turned into a bit of a headache. |
Originally Posted by Newbsauce
(Post 275215)
Mileage is not ultimately a deciding factor, but you need to decide if you want a good looking miata or a track slut. More often then not, there is too many skeletons in the closet. I would look for a good bodied 1.8 OBD-I (94/95) or if its a track slut, any 1.6 with boost will do. Keep in mind, the 1.8 brakes and rear will need to be swapped into your 1.6. I would NOT buy a previously boosted car.
Edit: The car above sounds like a crudely put together hunk of shit. Thanks for the opinions. Originally, I had it nailed down that I wanted a 94/95 (as I do want OBD-I), but I keep only finding 1.6's for sale. I do know about swapping the later brakes and rear over to a 1.6, and have counted that in my budget.
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 275224)
yeah, that car sounds like a shitbox.
Go with whatever is cheaper after the torsen swap, the 1.8 or 1.6. The 1.8 has better brakes and TPS. The rest comes out in a wash. If I could do it all over again, I'd stay with the 1.6 because the swap has turned into a bit of a headache. I do agree that the one shown looks like a shitbox...good call. No more thoughts on that car, lol. Thanks so far guys! |
Pass on that car. I see a poorly thought out DIY kit. First big warning sign is hose-clamps and a plastic VTA BOV. I also see a Vortech'ish FMU but it looks chrome and I've never seen that. I can't tell what manifold or turbo is on it, but doesn't appear to sit high enough to be a Greddy. I also see some sort of sensor mounted in the TB inlet pipe (might be an IAT sensor) and it appears he's JBWelded the IAC hose to the silicone coupler somehow. In any case, it's not worth it.
What you want to do IMHO, is look for a decently maintained 94-95 with a few (other-than-turbo) mods already done to it... like some shocks/sways/wheels/rollbar/exhaust and buy that. Make sure it's in good mechanical shape and perform a full round of preventative maintenance or whatever it needs and ensure the motor is healthy. Full fluid change, motor-mounts, fuel filter, clutch, etc... Continue to do homework on this forum and purchase used pieces as they pop up. Start out with a low-boost (6psi) setup using the stock injectors and fuel pump. Forego the Bipes and O2clamp that used to be bandaid tools-of-the-trade and instead save up for an MS. I say this to keep you from hacking the factory harness. When you've got it all nailed down and all the hardware is perfect... save for MS/550's/LC1. Call this guy and talk him down to $5k: http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/car/718982610.html |
Originally Posted by samnavy
(Post 275241)
What you want to do IMHO, is look for a decently maintained 94-95 with a few (other-than-turbo) mods already done to it... like some shocks/sways/wheels/rollbar/exhaust and buy that. Make sure it's in good mechanical shape and perform a full round of preventative maintenance or whatever it needs and ensure the motor is healthy. Full fluid change, motor-mounts, fuel filter, clutch, etc...
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Thanks for all the suggestions so far guys.
I do plan on doing a routine sweep and PM of the car when I get it, no matter which route is taken. A Megasquirt will be done when going turbo, I did piggybacks on my last car and it was a PITA. I want something with real control. I've contacted the lady with the black R in the link, but I don't think she's dropping that far. I've been trying though, but I would like an OBD-I car, so... There is a semi-local 1.6L I found dirt, dirt cheap, that is in good shape beside mileage, tried calling them too but no luck yet. |
I did option A, but originally I never intended to turbo charge the car. I just wanted to spend more and be sure that I was getting a car that was taken care of and wasnt going to break down. Then after a while I wanted more power and starting with a car I knew was sound was pretty reassuring.
Newbsauses comments about buying used turbocharged cars makes me nervous when it comes time for me to sell mine though. |
Sounds like you are taking the right precautions, that's half the battel when buying your next toy car, it shows you've been around, so welcome to the Miata world. I have a 94 and love the fact that it is OBDI and here in NC we only do safety inspections on those. So MS full standalone for the win. I am biased though, there are lots of happy 1.6 car owners, but I prefere the 1.8 so I don't have to swap the rear and the brakes and just call it a day.
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Originally Posted by Saml01
(Post 275251)
I did option A, but originally I never intended to turbo charge the car. I just wanted to spend more and be sure that I was getting a car that was taken care of and wasnt going to break down. Then after a while I wanted more power and starting with a car I knew was sound was pretty reassuring.
Newbsauses comments about buying used turbocharged cars makes me nervous when it comes time for me to sell mine though. |
You will ALWAYS be fixing stuff on a shitbox.
Start with a nice 94 or early 95. |
That is one half ass looking DIY turbo set-up.Spend the money and do it right the first time,stay away from cars that people are trying to dump off as problem vehicles.
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Originally Posted by Saml01
(Post 275251)
Newbsauses comments about buying used turbocharged cars makes me nervous when it comes time for me to sell mine though.
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Damn, two more nice ones that are already sold. I wish people would take the ads down once a car sells :(
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Keep looking Brad, you'll find the right car. I looked for a few weeks nationally before my '94 popped up on the local Craigslist. I paid $1500 for mine and its a California car with only 1 winter. The caveats were that it has a salvage title from an old accident and it needs some tlc (heater core leaking, radiator leaking, huge dent on drivers fender, cracked turn signal lenses, misc scratches and dings, and very blad tires on the stock wheels). Its runs fantastic and the price was right so I snapped it up:
http://lh4.ggpht.com/sr20ve/SF7x_Lbd...2-08%20001.jpg I bypassed the core, put a radiator barn radiator in, added some new smoked signal lenses, and threw an extra set of wheels with good tires on so its good to go for daily use now. |
Thanks man, I'm still on the hunt.
Details on the Classic SE-R turbo? |
*thread hijack* What wheels are those?
To the OP: that car's bad juju. The BOV is on the hot side of the turbo so the pressure has to build up all the way from the throttle body, through the IC and through the pipe to the BOV. It'll more than likely cause your turbo to surge at that point. Also, Galvanized heatshield FTMFW! |
I've always been of the school of spend more up front and do it once and right. I'ld pick up a more expensive lower mileage 1.8 in good condition. In fact that's exactly as I did with my 52k 1996 miata!
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Originally Posted by quadmasta
(Post 275418)
Also, Galvanized heatshield FTMFW!
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Shhhh, don't spill the beans on my new hotness. Otherwise my huge stack of galvanized sheet and my metal brake is for naught! Do you think it'd be bad to put the Mazda emblem on them in purple Sharpie?
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Originally Posted by BradC
(Post 275291)
Thanks man, I'm still on the hunt.
Details on the Classic SE-R turbo? I picked up my SE-R with rod knock out in Philly back in 2001 after I saw it on ebay. I swapped a Bluebird DET into it and ran it with the stock t25 for a long time. Over this past winter I upgraded to a GTi-R manifold, a GTi-R T28 turbo with a T04B compressor housing swap (from an S14 T28). It has S4 cams, STi 525cc injectors, and a Z32 maf with a Calum laptop programmable ecu. I haven't dyno'd it after the upgrades yet but I'd guess around 280whp @15psi going by similar setups. I weighed it on some Longacre scales in April and it came to 2529#. Its a lot of fun. :)
Originally Posted by quadmasta
(Post 275418)
*thread hijack* What wheels are those?
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Nice SE-R man, I've always had a soft spot for them.
Ok guys, another Miata question. I have seen some for sale that have alignment issues between the hood and headlight (when retracted). Is this a common issue that is easily fixable, or shoddy repair work? Thanks!!! |
Hey, that car does sound like a dud...
I was looking at it too hoping someone on clubroadster would recongnise good quality parts... none to be found ... I'm out! BTW... talked to the guy and offered him 2 grand, lol Lowest he'd go is 3500 |
Guys, what's a '94 with about 200k but in good overall shape worth?
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Originally Posted by BradC
(Post 275617)
I have seen some for sale that have alignment issues between the hood and headlight (when retracted). Is this a common issue that is easily fixable, or shoddy repair work?
As to the original question, I went with option #1. Got my '94 last year with about 70K on it, waited a couple months to find a good car with a Torsen, and it had fairly new Konis that the PO installed. I'm slowly building it up as the budget allows. A significant advantage of doing it this way is you will know exactly what has been done to your car, and you should learn enough in the process to be able to solve any issues yourself. If you buy an already turbo'ed car that was just bootyfabbed under the hood and has a rat's nest of wiring, it could be difficult to track down any problems that crop up. I wouldn't have any qualms about buying one already turboed, provided it was done properly by somebody who's competent and pays attention to detail, AND you are already familiar enough with turboed cars that you know what you're getting and how to keep it running right. |
Originally Posted by ScottFW
(Post 276153)
If it's just the rear edge of the headlight cover sitting lower than the edge of the hood, that is common. It is usually caused by dipshits leaning on the headlight covers while working under the hood. It is easily fixed by tugging (gently) upwards on the back of the headlight cover, closing the hood, checking alignment, and repeating until it's just right.
Originally Posted by ScottFW
(Post 276153)
As to the original question, I went with option #1. Got my '94 last year with about 70K on it, waited a couple months to find a good car with a Torsen, and it had fairly new Konis that the PO installed. I'm slowly building it up as the budget allows. A significant advantage of doing it this way is you will know exactly what has been done to your car, and you should learn enough in the process to be able to solve any issues yourself. If you buy an already turbo'ed car that was just bootyfabbed under the hood and has a rat's nest of wiring, it could be difficult to track down any problems that crop up.
Originally Posted by ScottFW
(Post 276153)
I wouldn't have any qualms about buying one already turboed, provided it was done properly by somebody who's competent and pays attention to detail, AND you are already familiar enough with turboed cars that you know what you're getting and how to keep it running right.
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Originally Posted by BradC
(Post 276072)
Guys, what's a '94 with about 200k but in good overall shape worth?
I have the modded valve cover, rear tonea cover, door plates, rims, head light cow, cold air induction, and suspension. And I am adding turbo. Take your time Don't just buy crap. If you find a good deal you can clean up and resale. Buy it, sell it and step up. You will know when you have one to turbo. Otherwise it is a nightmare to work on. There are a few guys here that have turbo miatas for sale. Some reasonable. You may have to drive a little. |
Hey guys, how much should a '95, Montego Blue, unmolested with 128k be worth?
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Realistically, no more than $2500, but with todays prices who knows...$4000??? Which I would not be willing to pay.
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get the 1.8.
Larger motor, Larger Brakes, Better diff. Less to swap, More up front rather than having to hunt down parts. I'm wanting to buy a turboed 1.6 but I would have the 99 race car in the garage that could do daily duty if I found out that a new car I got was a pos. |
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