Need for hi flow water pump?
 

Other model mazda water pumps are known for cavitating at high rpm. Since b6/bp aftermarket internals are coming down in price (rods, oil pumps, etc), many of us are starting to build motors capable of high revs. Curious to hear feedback about a new, hi flow water pump? Do you think it's needed, and would you buy it for 2X the cost of a OEM pump?

I'd be interested in an electric wp conversion. One day I wanna do it to mine, just never got to it. Would be much better at keeping the flow constant and not cavetating, and would use less power.

Keith at FM told me they tinkered with an electric water pump, but the OEM pump did a better job and wasn't cavitating. Never heard of a high flow water pump for our engines.

If it's needed, I can have one built here on site.
If it's not, I'm not screwing with it.

I doubt it's needed. I would be interested to know how many HP a wp pulls when the motors turning 2K, 5K, 6K, 7K, etc. From what I've read mechanical wp's and fans pull more and more power the faster they spin. For example Moroso sells an electric water pump that replaces the stock one and says it pulls 7 amps and adds up to 20HP. If we could find another 10hp or more with an electric conversion, that would rock.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku

Something like that and adapt it to turn our pump. Maybe sell the stuff to adapt that kit to work on a miata or something. They say mechanical pumps pull 15-20hp at high RPMs, plus it's more rotating mass the motor has to spin, it would probably help response as well.

Edit: it would be cool because you turbo guys could program it to stay running after the engine shuts down to cool the engine a little and cool your water cooled turbo too. I might buy an electric kit and see if I can make it work

you talking 150-200?

I was intrigued by that link on the new mazmart website actually until I saw it was only for the RX cars.

What's the price of the OEM pump? Is it around $55 to $65? I know that's the price of replacement pumps in the market.

For double that price I'd be interested.

How does one test for cavitation?

Keith said they used clear coolant hose to test for cavitation, ran it on a dyno. Cavitation will cause the coolant temp to go up quickly, and my Hydra datalogs from running 40 minute sessions at Sebring didn't show any spikes or wierd movement.

I know I would not need it for my app, but some may who are having chronic overheat issues on high HP cars.

The problem is going to be caused by engine speed, not engine power. Though higher power will exacerbate the problem. Since so many of us seem to be building 8k capable motors, I wanted to throw this possibility on the table.

I believe the rotary water pump is $225, but please don't hold me to a price point at this time. This is just exploratory at this point. But what we DO have working in our favor is the BP core pumps cost about $25/ea less than the RX pumps do.

If the issue is really high RPM, why not a underdrive water pump pulley? it would be the lowest cost solution. The best solution IMO would be an electric water pump, but are they reliable enough for the street?

That depends. The kit I linked is listed for drag race use only. I can only imagine that the motor is the limitation if your gonna spin the stock wp. Some other wp's for V8's are listed as 2K hour to 10K hour

why under drive (custom pulley, custom belt) and get less flow for maybe a slight savings?

Well IF the pump cavitates after 7K and he wanted to be able to turn 8K occasionally without worries, that would be a cheap/easy/affordable/simple solution wouldn't it?

The pulley could be sized to use an existing belt as well. If your not having issues at lower RPMS, then why not?

FI cars already have overheating issues on track; I'm not sure how much I like the idea of reducing overall water flow.

I would be interested in a high-flow, high-RPM pump if it would help reduce temps; I would not be interested in anything that reduced flow.

is there any benefit to sending in our own core?