New clutch still slipping
#1
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New clutch still slipping
So, i recently installed a begi s1 with 460cc injectors and the clutch started slipping. There is a shop around here that sells clutches and the guy said it would be good to 300lb/ft. however, after replacing the clutch it still slips at around 8 psi. Any ideas? I mean, unless it is something else. When i put it to the floor it accelerates to around 3k-4k and then the rpms shoot way up and im not going any faster. It doesnt feel like wheelspin. Could it be an adjustment issue? My flywheel looked good so i didnt have it resurfaced. The original clutch had 63k miles on it.
Thanks in advance.
-Wes
Thanks in advance.
-Wes
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what kind of clutch. you said local place did it, we have a place that does it here too. if its like our place its a 4 puc and a stock pressure plate, am i on the right trac? if so, did you brake it in? be honest, because you HAVE to brake in those ceramic clutches easy or it will slip like you descirbed
#10
what kind of clutch. you said local place did it, we have a place that does it here too. if its like our place its a 4 puc and a stock pressure plate, am i on the right trac? if so, did you brake it in? be honest, because you HAVE to brake in those ceramic clutches easy or it will slip like you descirbed
the break in period on those is stupid also
ask the shop, then come back to us
#12
revving it and doing the longest burn out
enjoying my hard work
ive done this on all the cars ive owned,
i did this with my swapped civic,
and i put thousands of miles on it
thats my idea of "breaking it in"
i honestly would suggest having ur flywheel resurfaced. and or, ask the guy at the shop , to show u the specs for the clutch, so u know hes not just bluffin
#13
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The clutch pedal is very easy to press down, like, easier than stock. The guy at the shop said that it was a "dual friction" and the two sides of the disc looked different. One looked like the stock one and one side was a "button" face. I asked him about break in and he said that it didnt need to be broken in.
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The clutch pedal is very easy to press down, like, easier than stock. The guy at the shop said that it was a "dual friction" and the two sides of the disc looked different. One looked like the stock one and one side was a "button" face. I asked him about break in and he said that it didnt need to be broken in.
FYI I have a ceramic disc, took it easy for about 2 miles, and beat on it a little. Grabs perfect 7k miles later.
#15
Did you remove the glazing on the flywheel?
This at least should have been done. The clutch is just another form of a brake. Just as the disks need to have the glazing removed for new pads to work best, so does the flywheel.
I don't think it is the clutch adjustment, but just to make sure- release the hydrolic fluid in the slave and pump it up again.
This at least should have been done. The clutch is just another form of a brake. Just as the disks need to have the glazing removed for new pads to work best, so does the flywheel.
I don't think it is the clutch adjustment, but just to make sure- release the hydrolic fluid in the slave and pump it up again.
#16
IMO, you have to break in all clutches. Maybe there's an exception, but I always break them in. That's probably your problem. I take break in seriously. If it says 500 miles, that doesn't mean 450, or 480.
The pressure plate being softer than stock is not good. That sucks. If anything, you want it stiffer for more clamping force. Did you or the shop install the clutch? When does it engage/disengage relative to the pedal? (does it grab an inch off the floor or really high, like right before you take your foot off?)
The pressure plate being softer than stock is not good. That sucks. If anything, you want it stiffer for more clamping force. Did you or the shop install the clutch? When does it engage/disengage relative to the pedal? (does it grab an inch off the floor or really high, like right before you take your foot off?)
#18
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also pedal feel has nothing to do with the plate pressure. on my probe, the comp clutch PP i had was a tad softer pedal than the stock PP i had. comp was i think 1800lbs and stock was something like 1000-1200 lbs.