New coolant reroute is done. Pics
 

When I swapped in my 99 motor I removed the heater core and did a coolant reroute too. Was never really fond of the factory thermostat housing so I had Tim @ Shore Motorsports redo the system for me with new aluminum piping and a pretty trick thermostat housing.

BEFORE
http://www.miatamx5.com/coolantreroute/reroute-010.jpg

AFTER:
http://www.miatamx5.com/coolantreroute/reroute-015.jpg

http://www.miatamx5.com/coolantreroute/reroute-018.jpg

http://www.miatamx5.com/coolantreroute/reroute-019.jpg

sorry for the blurry pics, hard to get the camera to focus with the reflection.

more pics here

you need a new radiator, the rest is beautiful...word

believe it or not that thing is only 2 yrs old. considering a bigger aluminum one even though I don't need all that cooling.

next on the list is redoing the intake as I still have the factory MSM plastic piping feeding the turbo. and a better BOV.

the first pic still has ur old intercooler.

Hmm. I'm gonna do something similar. hehe

Nice work :p

where did you get the thermo housing tim? My motor is nearing completion and I'm doing a reroute at the same time. That housing would be super slick.

Wow looks like a lot of work....so you completely remove the theromstat location, the heater core, and what about where the water exits the water pump....

originally water exits the water pump through the thermostat housing in the front of the head to the radiator. some water exits out the back of the head(5/8" line), through the heater core, just to recirculate through the block via the mixing manifold.

in this design the front thermostat is removed and plugged. all the water exits out the back of the head via a 1.6l thermostat housing top(1.25" line) directly to the radiator. no heated water goes back into the motor, only water from the radiator.

diagrams and details here http://www.miatamx5.com/coolantreroute/index.html

Man that's sweet !

It's originally a Meziere part that I machine further on my lathe. I can get them for you if you'd like. They are slick; they use standard V8 thermostats which you can get in hi-flow versions. I weld one end directly to the pipe coming from the back of the engine.

I dunno if that would work with my manifold but a cold side version of that might be a good idea.

I think I'm going to use this:

http://www.ajusa.com/images/vendors/HLY/lg/17-58.jpg


already tap twice for 1/2", so I can use a 1/2" to 3/8" fitting for the thermosensor, and you a slip on fitting on the other for the heater core.

It's already milled to accept a thermostat. Use a prefabbed block off plate for the oem outlet, and use that water neck on the back for the outlet.

I will be redoing my cold side reroute similiarly.

Nice Scott, who's is that? I made something similar on my coolant reroute, used the ports for the heater core and the coolant sensor. I thought about putting the thermostat in the back but the thermostat would hit the temp sensor. If I had thought about it more I would put the sensor in the lower hole and it'd probably clear.

Hmm maybe I will do that.

http://www.lvmoc.net/gallery/albums/...antSpacer2.jpg

http://www.shoremotorsports.com/pics...antspacer3.jpg

Fab'ed plate on the front:
http://www.shoremotorsports.com/pics...ta/engine1.jpg

Holley

http://underbid.com/action/display/i...ku/110720.html

trying to find something similar under $70. Otherwise I'd buy the Moss piece, but i like that I could just stick my thermostat in there and be done with it.

since the Moss motors part is only $15 I'm going to go that route and tap it myself, I just wanted to save myself the trouble cause I'm lazy.

I'd do something like this with the sensor so it doesn't hit:

http://users.telenet.be/miata/images...e/JRspacer.jpg

How much?

Brian,

wouldn't two of these work with a spacer with a lip (moss) in between?

http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/700/778/778-66207.jpg

that would work, but I still need the lip machined into one of them. I'd rather just buy the remote housing ready to plug in. Other than my lash caps, its the last thing I need to be able to drop the motor in na.

See the reply to the PM you sent me on options, but I can sell the housing with 160, 180, or 195 high-flow thermostat and fancy o-ring like gasket for $80 + shipping. It's fancy billet aluminum with two halves that screw together.

when you block off the front t-stat housing, and have the heater core source come before the t-stat at the back of the head, do you reuse the mixing manifold to reintroduce the coolant from the heater core back into the system?

yes, the mixing manifold stays there. You can run the heater core coolant into the piping back to the radiator, leaving only "cold" running into the block instead of mixed, however the engine would take a bit to heat up, and certainly on a cold day you'd wish the heater would blow a bit hotter a bit sooner.

On the reroute note... just found this linked from a thread on m.net...

http://www.rsaizawa.co.jp/product/en.../waterpipe.gif
http://www.rsaizawa.co.jp/product/en...waterpipe2.jpg
http://www.rsaizawa.co.jp/product/en...mg/thblokk.gif
http://www.rsaizawa.co.jp/product/en.../thblock03.jpg
http://www.rsaizawa.co.jp/product/engine/eg002.html

Very cool. How much?

looks like 48,300 for the first system & 53,550 for the second.

If that is correct you're talking $411.6126 & $456.3531 respectively.

I think the second one looks way too busy. The first is nice and clean looking though.

that's crazy. I expect my solution to cost under $75.

Do you still go through the heater core? I was looking at the reroute pic on your site and it doesnt look like it? Maybe its not a problem for you.

if you are asking me, no. i removed the heater core to save weight. heat is for people that have a top and windows.

looks like corky has something in the works: http://www.bellengineering.net/Pages/intheshop.html

coolant reroute UPDATE
 

installed the silicone 90s i got from PAT!


http://www.miatamx5.com/coolantreroute/reroute-021.jpg

sorry for the shitty pic. it's my cell phone again and the plastic lens cover is broken.

intake next. today actually.

That's pimp. Once I get off of my lazy ass I'm going to do something similar.

Today ehh...I guess I better show up then. I'll need to swap pants with my brother as I will not get my fancypants dirty today.

Radiator hoses look good, too bad I didn't do the bends in aluminum. You need a 90 deg. 1.5" blue hose with long legs now for the intercooler pipe :)

I did the reroute when I had the engine out. Kia Sephia waterneck, the JR spacer, 180º thermostat, some metal tubing from the sink section of HD, some radiator hoses in various bends. Did it on the coldside. Not nearly as trick looking as the OPs setup, but it works. I run a 99 head, so I drilled and tapped the head for the heater hose nipple. There was plenty of meat at the outlet in back for it, and plenty of clearance for the hose and clamp, so I didn't have to mod the JR spacer. I put the thermostat right in the head since it has the depression machined. Ran 4 track days and 6000 street miles with it so far. I changed the 1.1 bar cap to a 1.3 bar and kept an eye out for leaks. Haven't seen them yet.

so the t-stat is mounted in the rear of the head?

seeing how it's such a PITA to change that heater hose i didn't wanna deal with trying to change the t-stat back there so i did the external housing.

Closer pic of the thermostat housing:

http://www.miatamx5.com/turbo_intake..._intake_07.jpg

I assume there is no dramatic temp differential from a thermostat at the head, and 2' away?

Yep, fit in there. I saw on Frank's Miata Page that there was enough meat on the 99 head to drill and tap, so I checked my 99 head and there was plenty of room and thickness to do it.

Going to update the hoses from cobbled metal and rubber to braided AN hose and some stronger clamps. Gotta do the oil cooler lines as well.

that's why i have the turbo right below it. it's doubles as a water heater. :hahano:

What are you using to measure if you have increased cooling capability?

common sense. hot water used to exit the back of the head and go back into the engine via the mixing manifold to the water pump. now the engine is only fed by water coming directly from the radiator.