Newb Question on pre 93 miatas, a little help!
 

I have searched and I couldn't find the answer.

I would prefer to buy a 94+ miata, but 1993 and earlier miatas are much cheaper.

My question is, what is different besides the 1.6L engines? I plan to build the block entirely. If I am going to swap the engine (to a 1.8) transmission, differential, and axles, is there any difference for me in terms of buying a 93 or earlier as opposed to a 94 or later?

Thanks! :noob:

-Dave

The early cars have less bracing, smaller brake rotors, the wiring is set up for an AFM, they are OBD-Zero, the front anti-roll bar mounting points are closer to the engine, they have a simpler, lighter dashboard, the trunk has less carpet, the seatbelts are mounted to the tub instead of the seat (90-95), 90-92 has no wiring for power mirrors, post-95 (I think that's the year) has a fake oil pressure gauge, and a few more.

Most of the items are inconsequential, or are fixable. But there's no great barrier to sticking any Miata drivetrain, brakes and suspension in them and running it from an ECU with custom wiring.

After owning a mutant 1991 and stock 1995, if I had to do it over again, I'd still go for the 1.6. They are so much simpler and easier to get parts for. Also considering I now feel 250whp is the maximum worth dealing with in terms of drivetrain reliability, I think its the best choice for a low-ish powered car.

If you were going to build a block up, would you rather work with the 1.6L or the 1.8L, obviously the .2L extra gives you some extra oomph, but when you're turboing the car and building the block does it make enough difference to justify the extra money and effort on the swap?

It is frankly going to depend on your goals. Twice the stock power, either one will easily do. Triple the stock power can also be done with either with enough supporting mods. More than that and you might need the option of the 99-06 model 1.8l heads to make it breathe well enough. So, I don't know if you need it or not.

no trunk release, no defogger circuit, less bracing.


If I had to do it again I'd want an NB :)

I know people like the 99 heads for turboing, but would a conservative P+P job on the 1.6 heads get the job done?

Trunk release and defroster both started with the '92 model.

You don't even need to do that. They work just fine in factory trim. Most guys don't port any Miata heads.

NVM, reading comprehension fail on my part.

Also, if you decide to build a motor, which I recommend, you can score tired 99 engines on the cheap, drop it off for machining,, drive your 1.6 until it's ready, and probably save money in the long run over buying the 1.8 car. However, you're going to spend about $700 to get a Torsen rear end so factor that into the price comparison.

I bought my 1.6 when I was desperately poor, I'm talking I gave the guy every cent I had in my checking account, hit over-draft...but I had a running car. I then scored a wrecked 99 Miata for $700 and took the drivetrain out of it and sold nothing because it was severely wrecked, fatality style.

I can swipe a 92 miata for 800 clams, maybe 700 if I talk him down.

If my plans are to swap the
Trans
Diff
Axles
Suspension
Brakes
Build an engine (a 1.8)

What else would I have to work around with the 1.6? Do I have to worry about the harness not matching up, suspension components, or things like that?

I don't care about defrosters or power windows or anything like that. I plan or pulling practically everything out of this car. If I got a 1.8L I would have to hunt around for the 99 head anyways right? So why not just scout around for a 99 motor right off the bat to swap into this shell (If this goes through).


I plan on getting a job at a machining shop, and although a lot of people talk shit on what they are and are not going to build, I plan on making something pretty fun out of this car :D

If it isn't considerably faster than my car, I will be disappoint :giggle:

I have already learned a lot piecing this together, I plan to make a fun car, have a fun project, and learn during the process! ;)

You still haven't told us what your power goals are.

The only real concern that I can think of is that the front anti roll bar is located a little further back and if you use the stock mounts it will be fairly close to the front of the engine.

I am still looking into power goals, but for now I plan to make about 300

300 what? Hp? Whp? Trq? Have you been in a miata with that power or driven one?

Is this a strict track only car? Street car? Partial track car? Drag car? Daily driver?

Are you dead set on a built 1.8? Why not a built 1.6?

Details, dude. We need them to answer your questions.

A 300hp miata will eat your piece of shit wrx for breakfast.

Lol ^ The point is to make it faster than my WRX. :jerkit:
The WRX is my daily. This car is for fun.

I haven't been in a miata with 300WHP, but who says I need to drive one to build one?

Don't ignore the important parts I have mentioned earlier, this car is just as much, if not more about having a fun project, and learning about custom builds as it is to build a fast fun car.

Lol, Just looking around for some information.


Unlike (I would say most) people on this site this car is NOT going to be a daily driver, its not even needed in the least. If it sits in my back yard and takes 2 or 3 years to finish, so be it.

That is why I said a 300hp miata will eat your wrx.

Reading comprehension fail on your part. Thanks for the clarification. Having a fun car and daily is the best way to go, in my opinion.

No one said you had to. Riding in some one's car will give you a better understanding of what you want your goals to be.

I wanted 500whp a year ago, now I'm sure that 300-350whp is really all that I will need.


No one is ignoring anything, you just need to be more clear.

You WILL have fun building your car, that is a fact. These things are super fun to work on and cheap (compared to most other cars).

Heres my plan right now, this will all vary depending on what the deal is with this guys 92, but this sounds solid to me.


Go check out the car, if it's what I expect if to be give him 7 clams for it. Part out what I can for some money and get started tearing everything apart. As far as a motor goes I can hunt around for a 1.8 and a 99 head. I will have plenty of time to look around and save for them. I will also have to find a transmission for all this power, I was told the speed 6 transmissions can be used in the miatas, and that they are plenty strong for 30WHP. So much info to look up :)

You WILL have fun building your car, that is a fact. These things are super fun to work on and cheap (compared to most other cars).[/QUOTE]

Stoked :eek5:

Then the early car is the way to go.
You'll run the 1.6 or 1.8 engine off the 1.8 harness, using all 1.6 electronics, like a MSpnp9093 (keep the thermoswitch though)
You need to find a wrecked 1.8 car. 99 heads typically bring $450 in good, working order. I don't know how the 1.8 and 99 heads compare to each other, but I have a 99 head because I thought it was a good idea to do it right, the first time. You need to find a wrecked 99+ car to swap over. That way you get the engine, torsen rear end, spares, and possibly a 6-speed or at the least a spare 5-speed.
I challenge anyone to show me a car that's more fun than a turbo Miata.
It fits and you can still get a socket on the crank bolt.
I can outrun a Viper on the highway from 40-120mph in my car at ~275whp/16psi, at 240whp I can go around C6Z's on Hoosiers at TWS. 2400lb w/driver, little gears, little tires...these cars are epic fast at 250whp. At 15+psi in my car it's quite dangerous considering our little 9" wide tires, even in 4th gear.
You will realize what you're asking for in a 300whp car. There is a big, huge reliability wall at about 250whp depending upon how nice you are to the car. After about 250whp/240wtq, transmission don't last long. This is one reason why I run my car at only 235-240whp (210 for NASA), I don't want to pop transmissions, trans and rear end temps are already at 280-320*f, tires don't last long, brake parts are short lived, and I get about 6-7mpg at the track (fuel is expensive). I ran the car at 275-280whp for a season and it was very expensive, outside of my budget. Right now I'm burning about 1-tank of fuel every 45 minutes at 230whp, at 275whp it's much shorter.

That's what I did, mainly because I traveled for work about 4-years. I'd fly home every other month and work on the car for 3-days. It took about 18-months to build. You have to think in terms of target whp, then build from the oil pan, up to the head, then out through the bumper. I've spent more on heat shielding and cooling than most people spend on their turbo hot parts. The #1 best thing I did was buy the best connecting hardware (ARP headstuds, mains, and inconel CHRA bolts). #2 was waiting for the ABSURDflow parts. #3 is running the built motor under it's limits to be nice to the trans. #4 was dating your mother. The worst thing I did was build the engine before the Boundary oil pump gears were available...they'll go in when I pull the engine for the rewire job.

My build thread is pretty long, but the first 20-pages or so are pretty informative on what I broke, why my mother never loved me, and what I did to fix it. The 20-pages are where I fine tuned the car to a near zero maintenence track/racecar.

You did ask for the challenge... ;) 254 WHP @ 3,100 lbs. Full interior, power everything, sunroof, stereo, Oh - and fully caged. All NA power though. Really - you need a ride in the Noble M400 before anything though.

racing pedigree lc

I hear 300 WHP is too high for the 5 speeds, and the 6 speeds are sketchy that high as well. Faeflora said something about being able to swap in a mazda speed 6 transmission... I think I mentioned it earlier...reliability is a huge priority on this build.

In my opinion, I would rather spend a little extra than replace a moderately expensive build that keeps breaking on me. Transmission is one of these things. It is also the primary reason I dont keep modding my WRX. The WRX transmissions are sketchy after exhaust and a tune, it is recommended you swap for a 6 speed sti transmission. Thats 3,000$ and I dont feel like paying 3,000$ just be be able to spend more money on my car lol. This is much more appealing to me.

I have searched for a few weeks and have found zero on the speed 6 swap though, only information on 6 speed swaps. What transmissions (Aside from having a built one) will handle my power goals?

Ive never heard of a mazdaspeed6 trans swap. I don't see how it would bolt up...


there's the TII trans swap. Better yet, swap in an LS1 and use the GM trans!

I believe the Speed 6 transmission is built in Blackpool, correct?

In the UK? IDK why would that make a difference?

an LS1 with a GM trans would be WAY easier, economical too! :makeout:

Good info on the web about the Turbo II swaps! I'll look into those. Thanks!

The car went without a top for a while and the floor is totally rusted through on the drivers side, he showed me another piece hacked out of another miata and said it would only cost 75$ to fix. LOL

The search continues.