No start after plug change
 

Like it says in the title. I put new plugs in my turbo 01, like I've done a hundred times. To start my never removed ngk blue wires shed it's rubber grommet, on the plug end. I had an extra wire.

When I put it together, it wouldn't start. Tuner Studio is reading rpms but they stay at 0 on the dash.

How do I check voltage at the coil plug? Isn't there supposed to be 5v at the terminal, with the key turned on. Its Christmas so I can't get anyone to help me. To see spark etc. Any ideas what to look at. I even put the old plugs back in.

I get 12v at the terminal end, by the coil, with the ignition switch on. Should I be getting another signal, or is that only when it fires?
I put a cam sensor in, because I had an extra. Plugs are black and sooty.
Checked room and engine fuse. Cracked main trying to pull it to check, but I think it's ok for now

If the ecu is on, you’ll hear the fuel pump prime, and/or be able to connect via laptop. Once connected, you can test coils and injectors in test mode. That’ll verify all wiring, so it’s easier and quicker than checking with a multi meter.

I’d double check everything you did. more than likely you unplugged or bumped something. TS will read RPM while cranking. If it reads 0 while cranking, you have a crank sensor issue or similar.

I've got cold feet playing with this shit box outside. I tested the coils. Everything is sparking.
When I did an injector test injector h did not click, which surprised me because the car seemed to be running well. Does that sound like I need to go into the fuel rail and check the electrical connection, or see if it's clogged? I should get the car running on three cylinders first.
The fuel pump turns on but the plugs stay dry. I'm getting an rpm signal in tuner Studio. When I take a composite log, I get nothing. I've had the car twenty years without issue, so this is annoying.
Any other ideas are appreciated. I can replace broken stuff, but I'm terrible at diagnosing. All sensor plugs are right. No fraying on crank sensor wires. Gap is tight.

Ignore double posted

I mean most obvious is to swap the plugs on the coils around, 1+4 2+3 are paired, moved them to the other coil.

So many questions. Are you using injectors EFGH instead of ABCD? You did this while the car was running? Or you're saying it used to run fine so you're surprised it's testing well? The testing is electrical, seeing if it's clogged is a flow rate thing, that's another problem all together. If you're getting RPM in TS, you're probably doing the composite test wrong, because you would at least have a crank trace. Do some googling on how to do composite logs in TS. When you say crank gap is tight, it's in spec, correct? Stock 4-tooth wheel?

I should also ask the basic questions, what car is this, what ecu is it?

I should have started with this. The car is a stock block 01, with a mk turbo kit. MS3 basic by Reverant. I googled how to do a composite test. I'm still getting nothing. I tried a trigger tooth test and a single line showed up. The injectors fired on e,f,g,h in tuner studio, in test mode. In general settings the car is set up to run on a,b,c,d. A,b,c,d get no response when doing test mode. I checked fuel pressure, just for shits and giggles, and it was 60 something at the rail. I double checked all wiring and grounds to see if I knocked something loose. Everything is tight. Do I start throwing parts at it? Like a crank sensor? The cam sensor is new. Lastly is there a possibility that my MS has taken a shit?

My first question would be if it does anything different if you reassign injectors to efgh

I looked everywhere I could think of, and I couldn't find where to reassign the injectors. I think there's some data on the composite logs that I can't read. It shows that it has something in the file, anyway. I had two that were empty files. I attached the two logs that seemed to have data. Maybe you could make sense of them. I also attached my tune. I'm not ready to burn this bitch yet, but I'm looking for a gas can!

Metalogger wouldn't read my composite logs. I put a new crank sensor in just for the hell of it. Tried pulling the main relay, with the key on and injectors click. I can only assume at this point the megasquirt shit the bed. I'm going away for two months, so sending out to get checked and hopefully repaired is not time sensitive. It's a reverent unit. There's a guy here in Florida, Merritt Island that supposed to repair them. I hope to get it sent out before I leave Tuesday.

I hope you are successful, Joe.

DNM

Just heard back from Linfert Performance, who has my ecu. It's fried. He said if it's the daughter board, he can fix it. If it's the motherboard, I have an expensive paperweight. Waiting to hear results. I wonder if there was anything I could have done while changing plugs to cook it. The keys were out of the ignition. I'm going to owe a bunch of money for taxes this year. I hope I don't have to buy a new unit. I can barely solder 2 wires together, so making my own is not an option.

Please post your unit's serial number.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e529baffd.jpeg
Linfert sent me a picture of my ecu.
Serial # 34215
He offered me a used one, with 6 month warranty, for $900.

I don't know who Linfert is but your 2016 ECU is definitely not a paperweight. Get it back, email me and I will help you fix it for free (ie remotely with advice), email us pictures of the green board (email address is on our web site) and I will advise further.

I'll get the ecu back and get in touch with you.

I'm back again. After confirming that my ecu was unrepairable I bought a new MS3 PNP. When I first installed it the fuel pump relay was bad, so I replaced it. I also put a new cam sensor on it.

My issue now is no spark. If I stick a plug into a wire and ground it, I see spark. When I tried to hook a timing light on it I couldn't get anything. If I use tuner studio to activate a spark in can bus mode, I don't get any spark. I do here clicking, which I believe is from the coil. I've tried all wires with the timing light and with the same result. I've come to the end of my very limited knowledge. I'm asking anybody out there to look at my tune, log cranking and composite log cranking, to see if they can come up with any reason to explain why I'm having this issue. Car has been down for over two months and I need to get it running before I go nuts.

in test mode, if there's no spark, and given that your old ECU took a crap, i'd be betting on the coils being smoked. I'd try tossing in a spare coil.

I put new coils in with no results. I was fiddling around and pulled the egi relay, with the key on, and all that I noticed was the cooling fan came on. Is there a way to check this relay? Does how it acted seem normal?

I had time off today so I installed oem computer and maf. Confirmed spark with timing light. I also pulled cam cover to check timing, which is aligned correctly. Car sputtered but didn't start. I'm assuming my 640 flow force injectors were too much for the oem ecu to handle. Plus I didnt have an O2 sensor hooked up.

Beginning to look like my new MS3 PNP isn't working. I hope this gets figured out. I've been in contact with DIY support. They've given me some suggestions, but nothing I haven't already done. Been 3 months now since the poor car ran.

Get Outlook for Android

Stock 1.8 injectors are 265cc if I remember correctly. The car shouldn't be using the O2 sensor readings on startup/cold idle but the 640cc injectors have to be way too much for it to handle. Do you still have the stock injectors? Would be interested to see the result with those installed.

The stock injectors are long gone. It took me over an hour to find the maf!

Shucks. I'd lend you mine if we weren't on opposite ends of the country :rofl:

I'm back with more issues. I put the ms3 pnp back in and took a log for diy support. I noticed that when I turn the key on my afrs show 14.7 for a few seconds, then jump to full lean. Oscillates like that. Could I have toasted my sensor by cranking so much with no spark?

Yeah, your O2 sensor is probably bad. AFR gauge does the same thing reading 14.7 then going full lean with key on regardless if engine is off or running? If so, that generally means the O2 is toast.

I got a new O2 sensor. Figured no sense installing it until I have spark, or I'll just kill that one. Been trying to deal with DIY support and they haven't been very supportive. Somebody will email me, telling me to check base timing. I tell them the whole no spark story. A week goes by, next guy says, check your injectors. It's been going on like that for a while. Finally I get a rmu, so I can return this. I sure hope they find something wrong.

Well I finally got the beast running! I got the ecu back and after setting it up, the car fired right up. I still have the O2 issue though. I bought a new Bosch sensor and it didn't help. I could get a log to load, so I loaded a screenshot of a log. This is first drive, going around the block. You can see the afr's are fluctuating wildly. I checked for burned and pinched wires. I'm at a total loss what to do at this point. The car isn't drivable and it's making me crazy. Anybody have any suggestions what to do next?
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9e409d4dcf.jpg

Well the first thing I would do is take all o2 authority out so that the ecu is not trying to correct fueling based off the data coming in. If your fuel map was good before, this shouldn't be an issue.

You don't mention what o2 controller you have so the next thing I would likely do is get a new o2 controller. If you haven't already got one, the spartan by 14point7 is what replaced the innovate units on my car. I had at least three innovates but only one 14point7 in likely the same amount of time. And the innovates chewed through o2 sensors while the spartan has not needed one replaced. Even if my spartan went bad it would get replaced by another one.

I got a new AEM O2 gauge today. I don't know what I've done wrong this time but it not working right. It comes on with the the key, but shuts totally off when the car gets started. Tuner studio is reading a 14.0 afr all the time when it's running. Can somebody school me where, maybe, I should have put the wires, coming out the MS3? Does it sound like I have it wired wrong? I admit to being quite the idiot, when it comes down to electrics and electronics, so flame me if you will. If I can figure out how to disable uego authority, I will. I would like to be able to finally drive this damn thing.

From the manual:

7.2.6.1 Basic EGO settings These settings are used to control the behavior of the closed-loop EGO algorithm. • Algorithm - There are three options here:
– Simple - This method of closed-loop EGO control is well-suited to use with a narrowband O2 sensor. If the current AFR (or EGO voltage for narrowband) incorrect, the amount of fuel being injected is adjusted by Controller Step Size every Ignition Events per Step ignition events. This method often results in the actual AFR oscillating above and below the target.
– PID - This method incorporates a Proportional Integral Derivative control loop which tuned properly, adjusts the amount of fuel being injected to quickly get to the target, and then maintains the target without any oscillation (when tuned correctly). You tune the three proportional, integral, and derivative numbers below when this mode is active.
– No correction: The O2 sensor is used for data logging only and is not used for closed loop control.

The header for this page should say AFR/EGO control under the Fuel Settings. This can vary depending on what firmware you are on.

Oh, can't help you with the aem other than to say get the 14point7.

I don't have a MS3, so maybe this is not required, but I think the wideband needs to be calibrated before it can be used.

Confirmed that my new AEM gauge was bad. JEGS is sending me a new one. In the meantime, I copied my ignition and fuel tables from my old MS and copied them into my new tune. Turned off uego correction, as the gauge is not installed. That allows me to drive the car with a known good, safe tune. This saga of the car not running is almost over. In all I wound up having to replace: ecu, O2 gauge, 2 sets of coils (bought cheap rock auto ones that sucked), cam sensor, crank sensor, fuel pump relay and the original plugs and wires.

Well, I guess that will learn you not to mess with spark plugs again.

Glad you're almost home.

DNM