anarchyx34

Just installed the BEGI coolant reroute kit and for some reason the front thermostat blockoff plate is leaking right off the bat. I used RTV sealant as well as the included gasket, and I made sure the surface was perfect with dremel flapwheel before I put it all together. I noticed that the piece wasn't machined correctly and it didnt seem like the bolt holes lined up quite right and it was difficult to thread the bolts in it. I forced it and I'm wondering if it's warped or something now. Anyone else had this issue?

Full_Tilt_Boogie

iTrader: (1)

Cool story, maybe you should call them, lol

ScottFW

iTrader: (4)

No experience with the begi piece since I made my own, but if it's made from 1/8" aluminum then yes it could bend. I noticed the same thing happening with my homemade part because I didn't drill the bolt holes big enough at first. I could see the plate flexing as I tried to torque it down.

If you want to fix it for good, put a freeze plug in the head.

cueball1

iTrader: (13)

When I can't get an aluminum part to fit right I don't just ram er home. 30 seconds with a file would have opened those holes up and you'd have no issues currently. If it's warped take it off, file the holes, turn it around and the bend might work in your favor now.

It's two bolts at the front of the engine. How much simpler can a part be to work on?

anarchyx34

And that's the reason you don't work on your car half asleep and then post about it, although flipping it backwards is a pretty good idea and I'll give it a try after drilling out the holes a bit.

aphongt

iTrader: (1)

not sure if its coming out of the bolt holes or whatnot but throw some pipe sealant for good measure.

timk

Am I missing something here? Like Scott has said can't you just use a welch plug? Works fine for me!

anarchyx34

I'm using the small fitting on the thermostat tower to feed my turbo, so instead of re-doing my turbo's coolant plumbing, I'll just leave the tower there.

webby459

iTrader: (8)

I dig. I'm using the m-tuned reroute, the neck blockoff plate is pretty substantial. Not installed yet, though.

Lol, welch plug, mate. I had my head tapped for one by the machinist, when I get really motivated I can pop the blocked off neck and stick in the welch plug. I'll just have to move the water feed to another port.

chicksdigmiatas

iTrader: (11)

Needs moar RTV.

clay

iTrader: (6)

I made my own and I originally used a fairly thin sheet of Al (.100 maybe). It leaked under pressure (high rpm) since there are only two bolt holes and and a large surface area to cover flat. I remade the block off plate from 1/4" thick Al and it works great now. I'm not sure how thick the Begi piece is, but make sure you don't overtorque it as that will cause it to bow and the leak will pop up at the middle.

ArtieParty

iTrader: (1)

From the Begi site: Made from 3/16" thick aluminum, this plate will block off the front thermostat housing when doing a coolant re-route. It will still allow you to source coolant from the thermostat "neck" for turbo applications. This part will fit 1990-1993 Miatas.


Did you leave the waterneck in place and put the plate on that or did you take the neck off and try using it directly on the head. From what I remember, the spacing of the 2 is different. And for some reason, Begi lists 2 different parts for the 90-93, 94-05. I thought they were the same though. Maybe you got the wrong one or they sent you the wrong one.

clay

iTrader: (6)

I also remember Stephanie saying that they had to make that block off plate thicker because the first one they made leaked. Maybe they didn't make it thick enough after all. Don't know.

buffon01

iTrader: (9)

Interesting info. I was going to buy the begi piece, Im not sure now. Can anyone post pictures of a welch plug being used??

ScottFW

iTrader: (4)

I might have a pic somewhere from when I installed it, but this is the general idea:

1. Measure hole in head. (20mm ?)
2a. Ask the parts store guy for a "welch plug" and let us know how that goes.
2b. Buy a "freeze plug."
3. Toss freeze plug in freezer to shrink it up a bit.
4. Find a hammer, and a socket that fits inside the freeze plug to use as a driver.
5. Pound it in the hole.

anarchyx34

Seems my post wasn't that useless afterall since it's a somewhat known issue. The leak seems to have slowed a bit. If all else fails. I'll jbweld the bitch on.

dustinb

I would try buying some universal gasket material, cut your own gasket, silicone both sides (grey silicone & make sure everything is dry), let it get tacky, stick it on. Let it set. Add coolant. Profit.

cueball1

iTrader: (13)

The plate I have from BEGI is 5/16ths thick. No problem with fit or hole alignment.

I think the OP wouldn't have had problems if the part hadn't been forced into place and had taken the time to file or drill the hole slightly.

Definetly use sealant on both sides of the gasket. If BEGI is including the gaskets with the adhesive tape on both sides, chuck it and buy a better one. They are a cheap gasket.

vw_nut

iTrader: (1)

Don't mess around with silicone sealer, its crap. If you ever have to redo it you spend lots of time cleaning up.

Look up a product called hylomar.

It works similar to rtv only it always remains tacky, but never dries. It's not bothered by coolant, oil or fuel and was originaly made for Rolls Royce jet engines.

Amazon.com: Permatex 85249 Hylomar Universal Blue Racing Formula Gasket Dressing and Flange Sealant - 1.2 fl. oz.: Automotive

timk

Use a socket bigger than the hole but small enough to hit the other edges of the welch plug, then you can't drive it in too far and it should sit nice and flat when you are done.

Are you for real about putting it in the freezer? Never heard of that one!