Oil dripping out of total new rebuild - help
 

Been on a few forums doing a search and done some of the general recommended checks.... So here goes. 01 Block fresh from machine shop. I installed a new boundary stage 2 oil pump using "right stuff" silicone and no paper gasket. torqued bolts, yada yada yada.

So I pour in the break-in oil and while buttoning up the bottom tray I notice a small drip, then 2 with a little puddle beginning. This is before the first start up. So in my haste to hear my new motor run I rationalize that maybe once the motor gets some heat in it, some seal and gasket will magically make it stop. ( I know..... I know. ) In about 40 miles I added 1/2 a quart to bring it from the low mark to the top of the full mark. Hey at least I checked. Anyway, cleaned off the bottom, up on jack stands and start the engine and rather rapid amount of dripping occurs instantly before the oil even begins to get warmed up. The appearance of oil starts at the center under the balancer lip of the oil pan and runs downward to the bottom center before hitting the floor.

The oil pump came with an o-ring that was installed as well as a new main seal. The crank nose fits the balancer tightly so I doubt the crank is undersized at the seal interface. Anyone have this happen? I mean to get a drip before you even fire up the motor points to a leak at the bottom where the oil rests. Could I really have messed up the half moon seal at the front of the oil pan that bad ?

The next task is to get the balancer off. Will I need to take out the front sway bar or is there enough room to get the balancer out without removing it?

Thanks for any help, tips or advice.

Ken

Some people have had issues with faulty front mains, but it sounds like you really botched the install

I botched the install the rear main on my engine rebuild could be the same story for the front main on yours.

the moon gaskets are very easy to screw up. easy to see too. usually.

Did you put RTV in the Corners? I smeared a small layer under the half moon seal, and put enough in the corners to prevent the idea of a leak. Hell i used a whole tube of black RTV on the oil pan alone.

I used a full can of the right stuff on the pan and oil pump and I did smear a fair amount ( I thought ) on the corners of the half moon. I guess once I get the balancer out of the way I will get a better view. If I have to pull this engine out again for this problem I'm going to need serious therapy. :loser:

Doubt it's the problem, but which crank seal did you use? OEM?

prep and placement is key. not quantity
if you dumped a whole can of sealant on it, there is definitely a problem

Exactly what I was thinking. Ive done 3 oil pans now on the same tube. After taking them apart, I think I could get 10 from a tube.

Now I RTV JUST the moon gaskets in place the night before, lightly tighten the pan but dont RTV the pan! next morning, remove pan, add rtv, tighten. Then they never slip out on final pan install

Room Temperature Vulcanizing for the rest of you.

Im thinking maybe the front seal got pinched on install, at least you can hope thats what it is.

I'll write back after I medicate and nut up and rip into it. As to the "crank seal" question, it was just what was installed in the oil pump as I received it. I assumed it to be correct given the sealed package and dollars spent for that puppy. As to the pinched comment, it's unlikely since it was put together on the engine stand rotated 180 degrees so I put the pan on from the top. It's certainly possible, but highly unlikely it got pinched or moved.

Side note question. If my car had a V8 Roadster front subframe, would I be able to take the oil pan off without removing the engine?

If you didn't put an oem crank seal in the motor, you're gonna have a bad time.

Does boundary use OEM seals on their pumps? I would hope so

They didn't, and they leaked really badly. Now they do.

Ok good because I'm starting my built motor for the first time tonight and that would really suck. Lol

Well, did you put an oem seal in?

I assume you are asking me if I put in an OEM seal? If so then the answer is no. I put in the B.E. pump which had "A" seal in it. As I type this I realize you can't assume but for $400 bucks I would hope the seal would pass NASA (current) standards !

After working 12 hours it's difficult to get much done in the evening but I did get the coolant drained and the radiator pulled. See if I can drag my tired bones out there again this evening for a bit.https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ddcfd635f4.jpg

Sounds like you should put an OEM seal in.

Lol, been there done that.

we've a whole thread about the faulty BE seals.