Oil leak under PS pump.
 

Hello,

After much research, I'm coming here to make sure I didn't miss anything.
I've got a lovely self-rustproofing engine, but I'd like to remove that feature.

I've changed the cam seals (three times), and now one last time with OEM seals and not Felpro.
I've changed the valve cover gasket, I've reseated and resealed everything I can think of on the front of the engine.
The car is a 97 with no A/C and with P/S. I've ordered and fitted the proper bolt for the oil pump/AC bracket.
I've also done a timing belt job recently, and removed the crank pulley to inspect the crank seal. As it was dry as a bone, decided to leave well enough alone and not do the crank seal.

This photo was taken roughly 50km after having cleaned everything. Next step is to order a brand new oem valve cover gasket, although I've never had an issue reusing them a couple of times, and this one seemed flexible and still in good condition. I'll recheck the cam seals at the same time.
Any ideas? Did I miss something obvious?

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5285da4e73.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a1c0a079e6.jpg

I'd put tracerline oil dye in it and verify where the leak was coming from before doing any further work.
Just need a UV light and some yellow glasses (blocks blue wave lengths)

Fluorescent Leak Detection Dyes, Dyed Oils and Oils | Tracerproducts.com

I have dye in there from earlier leaks.
turns out it was the cam seals... Again.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2e96228c1f.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...080a74f1f3.jpg
any tips?

I have fixed cam seal leaks (with new, genuine Mazda seals) by adding a thin coating of RTV around the seal and letting it cure properly. YMMV.

When I install the cam seal, I remove the cam cap to ensure the seal lip doesn't fold over. You should also be using RTV between the cam cap and the head in case you go with my approach. Some people recommend RTV ultra black but I use Hondabond. Also, make sure you're using OEM seals.

When using RTV, do not put it on and then immediately torque whatever your sealing. You need to let it cure (harden) for a set of time, I usually wait 15 minutes, and then I torque the bolts down.

A friend who worked at an Audi dealership for years swears by this anaerobic green sealant. Used that, also didn't seat them as far as the last ones... just in case there was a groove I couldn't find. Left thdm slightly proud.

Fingers crossed guys!

Don't know if it will help in your case but I take the cam cap off first. Before installing seal, slather it with wheel bearing grease. I think the grease helps it slide into place and seal. Remember a dot of sealer on the head, where the cam cap goes.

I did that.

So they're still leaking...
I did two things I read online, anaerobic sealant on the exterior of the seal, AND set them in proud by 1 or 2 mm in case there was a ridge I couldn't feel.

Going to do the job again with etc, and seated with the FM tool.

Starting to think I'm pressurizing the cam cover somehow. PCV is plugged at intake side, and vented cam side. Exhaust vent is plugged into pre-turbo.

I'm leaning towards "it's not blowby" because my dipstick is still firmly in, and pressure would follow least resistance.

Any ideas? Heading on vacation for a week, but I'll redo them when I get back.

Check the drain holes at the bottom of the seal housing in the head for debris, excessive sealant.
Check the vent holes in the cam caps for the same.
If either these are plugged the oil "level" inside the seal housing will be above the camshaft. Guaranteed leaks.
If both are plugged the seal housing will end up seeing actual oil pressure from the 1st cam journal. This will be messy...

The drain holes in the head can be cleaned out with a 1/8 drill bit.
The vent holes take a 7/32nd.
It is possible to seriously restrict the drain holes by driving the seal until it bottoms. Leave it proud of the outer housing a tiny little bit.

The 01 VVT head I checked for drill bit size had a much larger counter bore at this drain back hole on the intake side to make the above impossible.

If either of these holes are plugged you will have leaks you cannot fix...

Just an update to this.

I've changed out the cam seals using a small smear of regular RTV. It seems to have worked....to an extent. I also checked the drain holes, everything was free and clear.
The leak is nowhere near as profound as before. But it's still leaking. I have yet to take the time to investigate it. After three hard drives around town it results in some oil drops pooled on the oil pan, and some oil drops on my undertray. It's small enough that it's not cause for worry.
I'm going to eliminate some possible causes I've got. Oil dip stick O-ring, CAS O-ring, and my oil drain hose.
I'd noticed it was a little small, AN-10 instead of 5/8 ID, 13mm vs 16mm. Not sure the 3mm difference would make a huge difference, but it doesn't cost me much more to just correct the error.

I'll update here with developments.