PPF, differential, driveshaft questions
 

I was doing my subframe, UCA, and LCA replacement today and had a few questions.

1) I marked my differential to driveshaft, but for some reason the marks don't line up anymore (wtf?). Is it crucial that they go back exactly as it previously was assembled? *update* not a big deal after searching.

2) I accidentally pulled out my entire driveshaft from the tranny. I was able to just slide it back in without any special orientation. Is this right?

3) My ppf was lining up short and cocked towards the passenger side. I ended up jacking my tranny upwards and PPF seemed to line up with the tranny bolt holes. However, I noticed that there is a small indent/score line on the tranny. Should the PPF line up with the indent? The indent on tranny is about 1/4" towards the driver direction.

4) Can I pull the ignitor to build oil pressure? Is 30 seconds enough? It's been sitting for a year.

1. Not important how you bolt the driveshaft to the diff.
2. Yes driveshaft just slides in and out of the trans.
3. There is a specific angle that the PPF is supposed to line up at. I just sort of jack up the trans till the ppf and trans look straight and bolt it in.
4. To build oil pressure I would recommend removing the turbo oil feed line, hooking up a clearness to it, then attaching the hose to a shop vac. Turn on the shop back and it should start pulling oil through the line.

Side note...make sure that you torqued the control arms while the car was loaded and not in the air, so as not to preload the bushings.

Thanks for the reply. I haz no turbros at the moment =(.

Do you have a recommendation for N/A variant?

Get a spare oil filter. Drill a hole in the top and then put a hose barb on it. Hook the clear hose and vacuum to that barb and suck that way.

Seriously? All of this just because it's been sitting a year?

Do an oil change. Fire it up. Watch the gauge. That's my suggestion.

My :2cents:

Yes, but also put the gas pedal to the floor while you crank. This should put the ECU into "flood clear" mode and thus prevent the injectors from firing and dumping fuel into the cylinders while you crank away. If you really want to take things easy on the poor starter, pull the sparkplugs as well.

Depends. You have a 91 so you should have a real OPG, just crank until you see oil pressure. Though don't overdo it and murder your starter ;)

I saw a video on youtube of a guy doing that with a shop vac. It seemed to work pretty well. Of course I can't find it now... :facepalm:

Thanks everyone.

A couple questions:

1) I noticed some of the alignment bolts did not fit perfectly flush against the subframe. I believe they are called cams (egg shaped washer). I had a couple newer style (2 grooves vs 1 groove in bolt) ones that I mixed with my older style ones. Will this be ok?

2) Is there a procedure for preloading Fatcat revalved bilsteins (non adjustable)?

3) When building oil pressure, I removed the spark plugs and cranked the motor. However, the OPG would not show any pressure until AFTER I stopped cranking. Upon releasing the key from the start position, the oil pressure would jump to 30 and then go back to 0. Is this normal? Was I suppose to unplug my ignitor when doing this? *Update*I believe this pressure reading is only given in "ON" position.

LOL, who negged you?

1. I have nothing

2. What do you mean by preload? Are you talking about running the collars up or something with the suspension arms?

3. Sender for the OPG is resistive. It wouldn't surprise me if the gauge is powered off while cranking, or that cranking pulls the system voltage down so low that it won't read properly.

If I had to hazard a guess, you probably have oil pressure now. But thats just a guess from a random guy on the internet. ;)