To pull engine or not to pull engine that is the question.
 

I'm currently in the need to replace the clutch and flywheel along with any thing else that may come along with that. Since I have never done a clutch or pulled a engine before, I'm asking the miataturbo.net community what would be the best option.

Option 1: leave motor in place and drop trans to replace clutch and flywheel.

Option 2: pull motor and do clutch out in the open

:hustler:

In the car. If you have all the extensions and air, it's not a terrible job. John and I are capable of pulling an engine and trans in 2-hours, but we can do the clutch swap slightly quicker. If you need to do a timing belt and care to replace all the hoses, pull the engine.

with a tranny jack you dont need to pull motor. hardest part with the motor in the car is the top right section, installing the starter and getting all those bolts off/on in that area. ( for me it was )

Get a helper, it makes the job much easier.

A trans jack at Harbor Freight is worth every cent.

I always work alone. As a result, engine pull is easier than dropping trans. That said, I'm not used to bench pressing 12 year old boys off of my chest (or transmissions) like some posters so YMMV.

I could see working with someone a trans drop would work fine. I did do a trans drop alone and I got it done but no trans jack, holding a trans up with one arm and a knee sucked.

They're both pretty easy jobs. You can disconnect the PPF and swing it out of the way to drop the trans. If you pull the motor you are going to be draining all your coolant as well.

It also seems to be about 50/50 chances for first time motor pullers to get the fuel hoses reversed. So consider that too.

It's really not hard to drop the trans and do it from below. But it's also not hard to pull the motor. Just depends on what tools and sorts of hoists you have available.

Harbor Freight trans jack. Harbor freight 6ton jackstands to get the car way up in the air and make it easy to get under. HF impact extensions and ujoints to get to all the bolts. Install the stainless steel straight shot clutch line to eliminate two fiddly brackets when the trans goes back in.

I would go ahead and replace your slave cylinder while you're in there, unless you positively know how old it is and how well its fluid has been changed.

Well that does it I'm going with the tranny drop, just need to make my way over to HF to pick up that trans jack. Thanks guys! Another question I have is that I have a stage three act clutch to replace the original one, I got it for a steal but I was wondering how rough this thing will be for a DD?

If it's unsprung you are going to hate life. If it's sprung then driving the car will be doable, reverse will just be a pain in the ass as your drive line hops up and down.

Go with am FM1 or FM2 clutch over the ACT clutches. The pedal feel is much easier and they hold more.

Also before you disconnect trans from PPF, put a jack at the front of the engine so it can not rock forward when you remove the trans. It will make lining up and putting the trans back in a piece of cake.

For just a clutch job... meh prolly keep it in. But I like to pull the engine and replace other ---- at the same time. Soooo depending if your car needs any other work I'd say just keep it in. If other work can be done at same time, pull it and make life easy.

Seconded FM1 or FM2. Love them.