Doppelgänger

iTrader: (12)

Sorry, but my analyitical skills and time are worth more than $0.02.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Oooh a fellow burner!

I actually just saw shpongle last night. Decent number of burners there.

Thirdlife911

When I pull out all of the parts from the pulley boss to the harmonic balancer to put the new parts in. Would it be a bad idea to put a lightweight aluminum pulley on? I was planning on shaving off the small side of the pulley with a precision machine ( The part of the pulley that was used for powersteering and A/c. also upon piecing everything back together find where the top and bottom difference of the wobble and with the precision machine. Shave the pulley so that it will counter the wobble and be straight as possible. Sound good?

Doppelgänger

iTrader: (12)

I wouldn't modify the pulley. I'd try getting a new/low mile pulley and a new woodruff key and go from there. Avoid the "under drive" or lightweight pulleys too as they don't dampen the frequencies that like to shatter oil pumps. If you ever get a hold of an ATI damper, you'll notice that it's heavier than stock...for good reason...better dampening. The wobble is caused by improper installation of the pulley and excessive clearence between the pulley, key and keyway....generally not the pulley itself unless the rubber inside has degraded (in which it would be time to replace it anyway). When you take it off, make sure there is no damage/wollowing to they keyway on the crank.

Here is an example of wollowing that causes wobble-







On my 96, someone did the timing belt wrong and I had a bit of a wobble, didn't think it was that bad and let it go. About a year later it bit me in the *** when the pulley fell off while driving. The keyway was pretty bad and the key was trashed. I was working at a Toyota dealership at the time and had it towed in and got to work on it. My fix ended up being to take a woodruff key from a Toyota V8 sitting in the scrap pile and shaving it down to fit...also had to take a file to the pulley a bit to widen its keyway to accept the slightly wider key. Put it back together and the bitch was smoother than how it came from the factory.

Preluding

iTrader: (10)

It would be a very VERY bad idea. Aluminum pulleys have no rubber insert and therefore send A LOT of vibration and don't absord ****.

It would garantee a blown motor and/or oil pump.

Listen to Doppelgänger, he speaks the truth and you owe him more then 2 cents for that kind of response.

Thirdlife911

Wow that crank nose has a terrible bend to it. I guess I won't know how bad it is until I open it up ( When the parts are in ) . Lets say the mine is bent that bad. Would there be any way to make it straight?

Thirdlife911

Lol, yeah he does know his stuff

Doppelgänger

iTrader: (12)

The chances of the end of a crankshaft being bent are slim to none. It's always caused by an improperly installed pulley and/or damage to the key and keyway. The bend you're seeing is likely an optical illusing caused by the shadow of the flash of the camera.

Thirdlife911

Ok, if the crank is not bent what would be the reason that people are saying i need to replace the entire crank? My friend who also has a turbo'd miata was telling me that i'm gonna need an entire new bottom end because the crank is trashed.

Is he just blowen smoke?

dustinb

Ok, it's obvious that you don't know what you're talking about at all, and you're insisting to make this harder then it should be. You've been told what is wrong, and what you need to do to fix it. Just stop thinking and do it.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

This is a mechanical issue. IF you can make the pulley and key sit in the crank keyway without any play, you won't have to pull your motor. A fix like doppelganger's could work, so might loctite etc.

Post pics of your crank nose, the center of your pulley, and the key.

triple88a

iTrader: (2)

Its not "bent" its worn out more so on one side than it is on the other because the pulley was able to rotate few degrees each way each time you step and let go of the gas carving its way into the crank. On my NA it was the same way (ended up trading it in at the dealer). The proper way to fix it other than replace the crank would be to pull the crank, take .020-.040 cut off of it, get that **** welded all around. Toss it on a high precision grinding machine and grind it down to size then mill out another keyway. Another way would be to add a hardened sleeve instead of welding it.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

**** that. JBweld the ******* key and the ******* damper to the ******* crank and win like motherfucking hell.

miata2fast

iTrader: (2)

Before thinking about it too much, pull the damn pulley and see what is going on. What ever you do, do not do something stupid like ripping the engine because you are pissed to blow it up. You supposedly have high dollar parts in that motor.

If you blow it up, you could hurt pistons, rods and cylinder head. That means you have to start over which would cost thousands to get what you have right now. Replacing the crank, if you have to, will really not be that big of a deal considering what you already have. But you need to see what is really going on first.

If you have to replace or fix the crank, at least you will have the opportunity to see if in fact you have all of the high dollar parts that the seller claimed to have. I would be somewhat suspicious, you got it pretty damn cheap for what it 'supposedly' has. Aren't you curious?

Savington

iTrader: (31)

All GT-series turbos are dual ball bearing.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Also, 53 ******* posts and we still haven't just pulled the crank pulley to examine the crankshaft?

Thirdlife911

Lmfao, Yeah Ik I ordered all of my parts and I don't wanna take everything apart for ***** and giggles. The parts should be in by monday or tuesday so I will keep you guys updated. Also when I replace the crank boss. Do I need to be extra careful not to throw off the timing or does the woodruff key keep everything lined up

Thirdlife911

I do appreciate everyones input. I feal like buying this car that I skipped a lot of steps in building my first car to something actually fast.

Doppelgänger

iTrader: (12)

You have a metric fuckton of **** to learn about how a car works. Clearly you aren't ready to do such work and not expect a mistake. Sorry, but that's the way I see it right now. I posted pictures of a crank and explained what caused the wobble and you can clearly see it in the pictures...yet you still can't identify what the problem is even looking at a known bad part as a big, giant picture. A wollowed crankway (do you even know what that means?) is perminant damage to a part that can't just be taken out without taking apart the entire engine. There are temp. "fixes" that aren't guaranteed to work, but may hold up for a long time if done right.

You should have bought a stock car and gone from there so that by the time you're ready for a built engine and turbo, youll halfway understand what you're looking at.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

You're fucked game over. I don't know what I am doing either but **** I have learned enough in 2011 to know you're fucked.

I sincerely recommend you recruit some local help since you are not heeding or reading anything anyone has posted here. The world needs more high hp miatas so I don't want to see yours die.

Dude as I said JBWELD will make it all better. Also make sure to JBWELD the pully to the snout. Also JBWELD the crank bolt into the crank hole. Also JBWELD the timing belt to the sprocket that way you will not have to retime the engine.