Pulley Wobble on my fully built motor!!
05-08-2011, 11:26 AM
#63
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Yeah, I still am considering it... I still don't understand why I shouldn't. If I still have the slightest wobble.. Wouldn't it be better if it were throwing around the weight of a lightweight Aluminum pulley vs a heavy steel pulley? I understand that the Harmonic Balancer keeps vibrations down throughout the motor but my crank is balanced so I really don't need a harmonic balancer. Also I plan on taking the pulley to a shop and have a machine shave off the side of the pulley for the a/c and power steering.
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05-08-2011, 11:29 AM
#64
Yeah, I still am considering it... I still don't understand why I shouldn't. If I still have the slightest wobble.. Wouldn't it be better if it were throwing around the weight of a lightweight Aluminum pulley vs a heavy steel pulley? I understand that the Harmonic Balancer keeps vibrations down throughout the motor but my crank is balanced so I really don't need a harmonic balancer. Also I plan on taking the pulley to a shop and have a machine shave off the side of the pulley for the a/c and power steering.
I want to refer you to post #45.
I wouldn't modify the pulley. I'd try getting a new/low mile pulley and a new woodruff key and go from there. Avoid the "under drive" or lightweight pulleys too as they don't dampen the frequencies that like to shatter oil pumps. If you ever get a hold of an ATI damper, you'll notice that it's heavier than stock...for good reason...better dampening. The wobble is caused by improper installation of the pulley and excessive clearence between the pulley, key and keyway....generally not the pulley itself unless the rubber inside has degraded (in which it would be time to replace it anyway). When you take it off, make sure there is no damage/wollowing to they keyway on the crank.
Here is an example of wollowing that causes wobble-
On my 96, someone did the timing belt wrong and I had a bit of a wobble, didn't think it was that bad and let it go. About a year later it bit me in the *** when the pulley fell off while driving. The keyway was pretty bad and the key was trashed. I was working at a Toyota dealership at the time and had it towed in and got to work on it. My fix ended up being to take a woodruff key from a Toyota V8 sitting in the scrap pile and shaving it down to fit...also had to take a file to the pulley a bit to widen its keyway to accept the slightly wider key. Put it back together and the bitch was smoother than how it came from the factory.
Here is an example of wollowing that causes wobble-
On my 96, someone did the timing belt wrong and I had a bit of a wobble, didn't think it was that bad and let it go. About a year later it bit me in the *** when the pulley fell off while driving. The keyway was pretty bad and the key was trashed. I was working at a Toyota dealership at the time and had it towed in and got to work on it. My fix ended up being to take a woodruff key from a Toyota V8 sitting in the scrap pile and shaving it down to fit...also had to take a file to the pulley a bit to widen its keyway to accept the slightly wider key. Put it back together and the bitch was smoother than how it came from the factory.
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05-08-2011, 11:38 AM
#66
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Yeah, I still am considering it... I still don't understand why I shouldn't. If I still have the slightest wobble.. Wouldn't it be better if it were throwing around the weight of a lightweight Aluminum pulley vs a heavy steel pulley? I understand that the Harmonic Balancer keeps vibrations down throughout the motor but my crank is balanced so I really don't need a harmonic balancer. Also I plan on taking the pulley to a shop and have a machine shave off the side of the pulley for the a/c and power steering.
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05-08-2011, 02:14 PM
#67
I give the **** up. You think the crank is bent, I tell you the wobble is caused by the keyway being fucked, you can't comprehend what I mean even with pics posted. You don't understand how the pulley dampens yet claim to know for a absolute ******* fact that having the crank balanced should eliminate the need for you to need any kind of dampener. You should sell the car and get a ******* pow..pow Powerwheels Barbie Jeep. I would tell you to go look at ANY built Miata engine and tell me what you see on the front of the crankshaft (hint- it's not a lightweight aluminum ChinkBay pulley).
At this point, I'm likely to write you off as a troll.....
At this point, I'm likely to write you off as a troll.....
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05-08-2011, 05:55 PM
#68
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I am known for doing things my own way and not heeding advice but you are being extra hardheaded/dumb. It sounds like you haven't even read your own thread.
If you are a troll though, I tip my hat.
If not, just **** off and die and kill your motor too because it doesn't deserve you.
If you are a troll though, I tip my hat.
If not, just **** off and die and kill your motor too because it doesn't deserve you.
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05-08-2011, 06:15 PM
#69
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I agree with you that its not bent!!! I understood awhile ago that its a worn crank nose. Please re-read the forum before you go flamming me Doppel. FFS I already know what has to be done.
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05-08-2011, 07:29 PM
#71
I don't know whether this is relevant so read accordingly.
My 2000 had the #4 bearing issue and was replaced under warranty by Mazda. The replacement (short) engine never felt right and after several trips back to the dealer they finally took a closer look and discovered that the replacement *brand new* engine did indeed have a bent crank nose. There was no explanation given and they replaced the (short) engine again. It's been great ever since.
My 2000 had the #4 bearing issue and was replaced under warranty by Mazda. The replacement (short) engine never felt right and after several trips back to the dealer they finally took a closer look and discovered that the replacement *brand new* engine did indeed have a bent crank nose. There was no explanation given and they replaced the (short) engine again. It's been great ever since.
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05-08-2011, 10:31 PM
#73
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I found my way to a "Neg Only" party a couple of nights ago. It was great fun. I had to "apply" by email stating that I was neg and DDF and attach a full frontage pic and mug shot.
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05-09-2011, 01:01 AM
#75
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Just use the aluminum pulley. Stock cranks are extra viscous before they get shaved during the balancing experience. Once it's shaved, it's nice and smooth and the oil can make it slicker. Since you have the Stage 2 balanced crank you don't need the extra rotating weight.
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05-09-2011, 08:18 AM
#76
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You know I take back what I said earlier because I didn't realize that the crank was balanced.
Just use the aluminum pulley. Stock cranks are extra viscous before they get shaved during the balancing experience. Once it's shaved, it's nice and smooth and the oil can make it slicker. Since you have the Stage 2 balanced crank you don't need the extra rotating weight.
Just use the aluminum pulley. Stock cranks are extra viscous before they get shaved during the balancing experience. Once it's shaved, it's nice and smooth and the oil can make it slicker. Since you have the Stage 2 balanced crank you don't need the extra rotating weight.
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05-09-2011, 08:32 AM
#77
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All the answers you are looking for are in the first 2 pages of this thread.
You have to take off your pulley, timing belt, the works.... there is no avoiding doing this.
Go ******* do it, take pictures, come back.
You have to take off your pulley, timing belt, the works.... there is no avoiding doing this.
Go ******* do it, take pictures, come back.
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05-09-2011, 08:59 AM
#78
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Yhe Prel, I know I have to take everything apart and as I said before . I'm not taking it apart until I get all the parts in which will be today. Now what seems to be the problem is Lightweight UDP or the stock Harmonic Balancer. 
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05-09-2011, 09:04 AM
#79
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You've been told not to use the UDP but chose to argue with the answer you received so now ppl are saying to just go ahead and do it cause you're too dumb to listen.
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