PWR Radiator and sacrifical anode
 

Whats the thread and pitch of the PWR radiator? going to order a sacrificial anode plug. dont want to take it out till Im ready to flush it and refill it... have limited time/space to do stuff like this, plus I need to drive it...

NB(2) fwiw.

noone has done this?

I lost a PWR rad to electrolysis :(

I'll be watching this thread as I plan on adding one to the KOYO when I install it. I was just going to get a lump on a Chaim and toss it in lol

I may try this on my FM crossflow...once I get it fixed:
Flex-a-lite 32060 - Flex-a-lite Zinc Anode Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com

It's 1/4in NPT. Not sure what my drain plug size is yet.

Why not just used distilled water and make sure the engine is grounded well enough that there is no voltage offset between the rad and the engine?

I put a $.99 ground strap on mine cause Doppel's story scared me.

12x1.5mm from PWR.

yeah I always use distilled water. Don't know anything about grounding them. Off to google.

A grounding strap won't help. The electrical differential exists between the types of metal, not from an external electrical source. The three components needed to set up this type of corrosion are an anode (aluminum in this case), cathode (iron block), and a conductive medium.

Distilled water is the first step at removing one of the components. However, I just drained my coolant and it looks like mud from all the rust. It's probably pretty difficult to keep distilled water "distilled". The second step is to use something that will corrode prior to the aluminum. Hence the zinc.

Forgive any inaccuracies, it's been a while since I last dealt with the corrosion issues on a space launch mishap. The problem we ran into was an aluminum b-nut on stainless lines corroding, cracking and causing a fuel leak on launch. In this case, both components were physically grounded to each other. Didn't help. Neither did the fact the launch site was less than 100ft to the Pacific Ocean.