Radiators
 

Ok, I know everyone on this forum is all "get a Godspeed its incredible" but what are peoples opinions of the koyo 55mm? and more interest to me.. has anyone had any experience with the new Springfield Dyno Spec Miata Radiator? its supposed to cool better and more then the koyo... a test they ran the car never went over 170* for a 34 min test... the koyo ran the same test and hit 190*
Thoughts?
I know its $600, but id rather do my re-route and spend the 600 and never have another heating problem then trying 5 different things and never get it right..
http://www.saferacer.com/springfield...?productid=540

For 600 bucks, buy two Godspeeds so you have a spare, a pair of electric fans, and Mega Squirt so it will turn them on and off. Should run you around 600 bucks.

Seriously, what's your power goals? What do you plan to do to this car? Most conclude the size of the radiator isn't what matters (after you have a big one), it's getting air through it. People who track their cars run different hoods, under tray's, high performance fans and shrouds, etc to get air through the radiator. I'd have to say the GS radiator is plenty big for 99% of the peoples needs on this forum.

id like 275-300hp and i overheat like a beast... thats one reason im doing the re-route... but it doesnt seem like it will be enough

if you have the money and want to spend it on a radiator, go ahead man...
other than radiator, what else will you do to prevent overheating?
fans, shroud, ducting, extractor hood, re-route? all those things help in keeping temps down
the GS rad has enough capacity, more than you need, its not the best radiator out there, but how much better do you need, $600 better? id say no.
most people here want reliability and power, we all try to save a buck or two, but will not do so to sacrifice reliability, iow just like you i assume...
the GS will be enough if you do other things as well, things you should do with the $600 radiator as well
its your choice, most here use the GSb/c of its lowcost and high capacity

Yea, IMO you don't need that 600 dollar radiator. Give us details. Do you daily drive this car, or is it a race car that's gonna see hour long track sessions? Don't just answer this question in a single choppy sentence with no capitalization, punctuation, apostrophe's, or clarity. :) Explain yourself clearly! Keep up the crapy sentence structure like Whaam and people will ignore you.

Are you trying to save a buck, or do light your cigars with 100 dollar bills? Throwing parts at a car is not the way to solve your overheating problems, you have to make logical reasonable decisions. IMO, blowing 600 bucks on just a radiator is crazy unless you've done every possible thing to increase airflow through the radiator and your 400whp beast just needs a little bit more cooling for those long track sessions.

I have had the Ron Davis radiator now for years and have never overheated....haven't even come close. Worth the money for me. :)

Vash-

What's wrong with a 190f coolant temp? The on temps for the OE fans are good indicator of ideal coolant temps. The engine actually makes more power around those temps than colder (or hotter).

I am in the process of a coolant re-route going intake side. I have ducting and I have been reading up on oil coolers... is this a decent one? http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda...t/10-1001.html
Fans are in parallel right now, but don't really need them because the car is almost never on the street(only to get to the track) I was reading up on M2's mini scoop extractor, and it seems great and I may invest in one myself. Like I said, I dont want to buy things more than once... I have done it enough, so I just want something that I am never going to have to fix ever again.
But if its just as good, maybe Ill consider it since the price is so much different

What does IMO mean? This is a track car, rarely used for DD, it sees 3 sessions in a row of 30 min each on a rough day, but it needs to last at least 40min of track time.

I want the cure of overheating! haha. If it cost me a $1000 I dont care as long as it works I am also talking to Whaam about his front bumper because I think that will help with more flow also. I am looking for 300whp and beating the crap out of it on the track.:)

Link? What are the specs?


PS... I read in a post that there is a dual core, dual pass rad...? This sounds intense.. Has anyone heard of it/ run it? If they have could they also supply a link? Thank you!

There is nothing wrong with 190. I am more concerned with 200+ coolant temps. Once the car starts to overheat, my Link shuts the power pretty much off and there is no power left.. I stick it in 5th gear and drive around the track half a lap and the coolant is back to normal

During controlled dyno tests, we have seen 15-20 degree drops on intake air temps.

that truly is an incredible radiator :eek: I'm going to assume they're talking about air flowing through the rad. But you gotta think if it's dropping coolant temps that much, then it must be exctracting lots of heat from the coolant... and where would that heat go?

I think they meant coolant temps. Because I saw that on JVTR's 3 row rad and I laughed.

Here's the link to the Ron Davis radiator I have.
http://www.awrracing.com/pages/cooling.html

and

Here's the link to the dual core radiator.
http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?...umber=09-17010

FM is where I got mine, but looks like they switched to PWR and dropped the twincooler as well.

Vash-

Is that dual core rad, also dual pass? I think it was in M2's post he was talking to someone and they said they had a 4 row rad and they and he explained it as dual pass and dual core.. not just dual core.

Thanks for the link!

Ive got the Koyo rad for mine, after speaking to some people over here running bout 280hp they said with the bonnet lifters, koyo rad and 16- 19 row oil cooler their running temps are fine but its cold here most of the time anyway.

off topic.. Vash, do you play xbox live?

Its been 100 degrees out on track days... and that really kills me. I am looking into a oil cooler.. I supplied a link to one I'm looking at. But im not necessarily sold on that one if anyone has a better option.:)

i'm actually using the dual core one... not from FM but from Koyo... the OE replacement for the automatic? it IS better cooling but i'd rather just buy a godspeed

Here is M2's post.. Ps. M2 could you give pics... On this link they dont show up. https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=4530

Hell yea! I pwn noobs at halo 3 :)

On Xbox live I'm not Vash though, I'm Shloberknocker

Add me if you play halo 3, that's really all I'm good for.

Yea those are automatic OEM radiators. I went with an all aluminum race radiator so the issue would never really be in my mind. Race radiator, 1 fan, 160* thermostat, extraction hood....and I've never experienced a problem.

Vash-

oh, I thought you were X Va5h X hes my friend (he plays halo 3 also) but I just play halo 2. I havent played halo 3 yet (I have a 360 but I just never bought H3)

There are few design elements that help improve a rad's cooling-
Dual Core
Dual Pass
Cross flow
Stock cars are big on running a multi pass, multi core, cross flow because they work. And that has driven the cost down.

I don't know why those with some or all of the features built for a Miata are so expensive... maybe it's because it doesn't share a core size with anything? :dunno: But for comparison, I bought a dubl pass, cross flow, dual core rad for Ford stock car (smallest size) for $209 and built a hanger/bracket from square tubing for less than $10.

I think the real key on the track (as in multiple laps) is getting the heat out from under the hood. I think the underhood dynamics is fine for a normally aspirated miata, but that all changes with the turbo in there. I know of one turbo'd track Miata that came to this conclusion when face with the same situation. He cut holes in the hood and could then run full sessions w/o fear of overheating.

so do you think that getting a rad from a stock car would be a better solution then to buy a GS or that Springfield that I gave a link to?

For me no- because I have no deadlines to get the car read and enjoy making stuff. Based on your first post, I think you want something that will drop in. I personally would be inclined to address both oil and coolant temps and therefore would either go for a twin cooler OR (cheaper) rad upgrade with the leftover funds going to the oil cooler. Do you know what your oil temps are when you coolant temps are high?

Unfortunately I do not. I just need the car to be done by July. I need the following finished.. Coolant re-route, Cooling issues SOLVED, Power steering de-power, Dynoed and tuned with my new LC-1. PS, any secrets to tuning the Link? I have trouble. I need to install my larger IC and re-do my ducting to fit, I need an oil cooler to keep those temps down, I would like to fab or buy some sort of hood extraction, like your mini scoop. and I would also like to put in a new front Wizdom bumber. All this needs to be done by July 4th, Most of it just working on the car. I would also like a lightweight seat that doesnt cost a million dollars so I can buy 2, but it needs to have wings to keep you from moving.

On the stock car Rad topic... Do you think it would be a suitable solution to have a good multi flow rad with lots of cooling capabilities take up 75% of the opening in the front and mount a good oil cooler in the remainder of the area? kind of like a twin cooler only make my own?

About the Oil temps... I check the oil after each race (synthetic) and it looks to be fine, I havent done a change since the beginning of last season and the oil still looks good.

Advise on a good oil cooler and a link would be MUCH appreciated! The link I provided in the first couple of posts, I dont know anything about it or how many row it is. Just found it in a Search.

Thanks guys!!

I think it's the best idea.

Running a temp gauge in a turbo track still seems like an excellent idea to me.

This design works well. I'm using the smallest at the moment and it drops temps about 30f with mediocre air flow. Of course the other advantage to oil coolers is the ability to add oil capacity - which smaller does less of.

Knowing your oil temp on track will give you idea of what "kind" of oil cooling you need.

Wow! Thank you! I'm thinking about the 36 row cooler. Do I need to reloacte the oil filter? BTW I like your thread and I'm thinking something along the line of the same type deal... Put the oil cooler next to the Rad. If its not too much to ask, where did you get your stock car rad? And what do you think of the idea of smaller rad but multi flow/multi pass?

I would love to never have to worry about temps ever again. I would love to run three drivers in 3 consecutive session 20min-30min a piece with one cool down lap in between each session and 5 minutes of downtime. Currently if the car is put in 5th and driven for about 30seconds, the car will cool right back to normal (1/3) of the temp gauge.
So I would like to eliminate all possibilities of overheating and if the oil drops 30*F, GREAT!

What do you think of this.. Mini scoop following your thread and louvers over the turbo and symetrical on the intake side?

M2, It has reached that time for me where I need a new Rad. My re-route didnt cut it for me. After a 20 min drive in 85* weather at 6500rpm I overheated. So time to do the oil cooler and new rad. I have one month to do it so there is plenty of time. What should I do for a rad? Hook me up!!! Godspeed has a 5week wait I saw.. still willing to pay the 600 for that rad if its going to work.