Re-torque head to what - while valve cover is off
Hey guys,
Just wondering what to re-torque the head bolts to while I am painting my valve cover? I am running the Greddy turbo. Thanks Jason |
Are you talking about the head studs that connects the head to the block? Or the valve cover. The valve cover i just get them nice and snug. Make sure you reapply RTV sealant or else you will get leaks.
|
Dude, seriously, go spend the $15 on a Chiltons or Haynes manual.
|
Damn you for making me visit this site:
Miata Torque Specifications |
Originally Posted by sbkcocker499
(Post 430106)
Are you talking about the head studs that connects the head to the block? Or the valve cover. The valve cover i just get them nice and snug. Make sure you reapply RTV sealant or else you will get leaks.
|
Originally Posted by samnavy
(Post 430110)
Dude, seriously, go spend the $15 on a Chiltons or Haynes manual.
Actually I have the FSM and I know that it says 56-60ft/lbs but doesn't that seem a little loose? I thought that with a turbo now a higher value would be preferred? Or is stock still fine? Thanks |
Stock is fine. Plenty of people making 250whp on stock motors without touching the motor.
|
the elastic properties of your head bolts doesn't change just because you're turbo'd.
|
Originally Posted by blue89turbo
(Post 430153)
I am talking about the main head studs...
If yes, then you should most likely change the headgasket. If no, then don't bother fucking with them. And yes, torque specs are about the easiest things to find. It amazes me that people will sink thousands of dollars into a car, then hundreds or thousands more into aftermarket parts, and won't spend even $20 on a freakin' Haynes manual. All of a sudden even the $100 factory manuals seem like a decent buy, in the grand scheme of things, huh? |
Originally Posted by the_man
(Post 430196)
The fact that you are asking this question means that I need to ask you a question in response- did you loosen them?
If yes, then you should most likely change the headgasket. If no, then don't bother fucking with them. And yes, torque specs are about the easiest things to find. It amazes me that people will sink thousands of dollars into a car, then hundreds or thousands more into aftermarket parts, and won't spend even $20 on a freakin' Haynes manual. All of a sudden even the $100 factory manuals seem like a decent buy, in the grand scheme of things, huh? |
Haynes/Chiltons never came out with an NB manual. Rosenthal has factory manuals for the '03 for $125. Maybe there are better prices elsewhere, but that's on you to find. ;)
|
|
My mother's alcohol consumption while I was in the womb resulted in my enormous cock, so STFU. My mutant powers > your "scientific fact."
|
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:19 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands